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What year XJ should i be looking at?

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Old 10-11-2013, 08:28 PM
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1999

Or as stated the 2014 because it flexes like crazy.
Old 10-11-2013, 11:50 PM
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91-99 in my opinion
Old 10-12-2013, 01:17 PM
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Yay or Nay? http://binghamton.craigslist.org/ctd/4100823100.html
Old 10-12-2013, 06:22 PM
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1999
Old 10-12-2013, 06:34 PM
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96
Old 10-12-2013, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRoflWaffle
Seems like a reasonable price. I'd keep looking for less miles if you are dropping $3,000+ tax, fees, etc...

I was at that dealer I mentioned earlier about 2 weeks ago buying my wife a car. I didn't look closely at the XJs but they seemed decent from a glance.
Old 10-12-2013, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcharge
2014
2014 = KL Just sayin :-)
Old 10-14-2013, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by rmoore1031
Seems like a reasonable price. I'd keep looking for less miles if you are dropping $3,000+ tax, fees, etc...

I was at that dealer I mentioned earlier about 2 weeks ago buying my wife a car. I didn't look closely at the XJs but they seemed decent from a glance.
Hm.. what would you say the *ideal* price would be for something with minimal rust, and around 150k miles? (Xj wise..)
Old 10-14-2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRoflWaffle
not a bad deal...needs a small lift and rims/tires. If that were around here in michigan that a 4000 dollar jeep easy

I had a 91, a 2000 and a 1999.....to be 100% honest....i would choose that 91 before i even look at the other too

there is something about those 91-96 cherokees.....old style dash, the seats....I love them

My 99 was nice, but id prefer a 91-96 jeep

cant go wrong with 91-99 xj tho....rust is your enemy, so keep a eye out....good luck...xj's are the best
Old 10-14-2013, 10:52 AM
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my 97 has been great thus far. I've put 16k miles on it since December. granted I am a mechanically inclined individual with a gearhead mindset. it was a state owned vehicle and I am fairly certain it was maintained well and hasn't seen a dirt road - ever.
Old 10-14-2013, 05:15 PM
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I've had a 96 and now have a 97. I think I prefer the 96 interior. The central switches on the 97 are nicer and you can switch on the fogs without fumbling behind the wheel but I hate the way the door card catches your elbow. The 97 is more modern, but it's still very dated and wherease the 96 is old enough to look retro. IMO of course.
Oh, and I like the 4x4 indicator panel thing on the 96 - so much cooler than the little idiot lights on the 97's dash.

I do like the dual 12V sockets on the 97+ and the cupholders.
Old 10-14-2013, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Morat
I've had a 96 and now have a 97. I think I prefer the 96 interior. The central switches on the 97 are nicer and you can switch on the fogs without fumbling behind the wheel but I hate the way the door card catches your elbow. The 97 is more modern, but it's still very dated and wherease the 96 is old enough to look retro. IMO of course.
Oh, and I like the 4x4 indicator panel thing on the 96 - so much cooler than the little idiot lights on the 97's dash.

I do like the dual 12V sockets on the 97+ and the cupholders.
This...

This is what we need more of.

So, you're saying it's a 50/50 deal? Win some lose some type deal?
Old 10-14-2013, 08:01 PM
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Short version: Get the one with the least rust. These things will last forever if kept clean, and the body is the only component that you cannot swap out for cheap. Millions were made and they are a cheap and plentiful 4WD. This means that a lot of used XJs were winter beaters. Now that they're even cheaper and older this is especially true.

As far as years go, there are a few generations:

1984-1986 (AMC from '83-'86): Unreliable carbureted GM V6 or carbureted AMC I4. Dumb vacuum disconnect front axle that can be bypassed easily. The V6 is serviceable but needs a lot of TLC. It's common for owners of these to swap out to another GM V6 with more power and a better track record.

1987-1990 (Renault from '86-'90): Renault/Bendix "Renix" fuel injection and the 4.0L I6. Very flexible and reliable system, everything can be troubleshot with a multimeter, and most problems are related to poor connections. No trouble codes or adaptive memory, the whole system learns on the fly. Actually has a knock sensor, unfortunately has a pesky EGR. Has the dumb vacuum 4x4, again not a huge issue. '89 was a transition year as a major point of failure on the main wiring harness was eliminated (C101) and the Aisin-Warner AX-15 was equipped in place of the weak Peugeot BA10/5. Factory fuel injectors are prone to leaking, upgrades (from a Volvo, lol) are cheap and plentiful. Axles included the vacuum-disconnect Dana 30 up front, Dana 35 in the rear, or the strong Dana 44.

1991-1995 (Chrysler from '90-'95): Chrysler OBD-1 introduced, solid one-piece axle shafts up front. Along with the OBD-1 brains all of the sensors were changed, EGR and knock sensor removed, new wiring everywhere, and a minor redesign of the engine that lowered the torque peak and added a whopping FIVE horsepower, earning it a "High Output" designation. (yay five ponies!) Throws codes and has an adaptive memory. Codes can be read with a special scanner or using the key-trick method that flashes a CEL. Certain blocks have irregularly sized cylinder bores and are prone to piston slap. Chrysler finally found the defective boring machine and strengthened the block as a result of a class action lawsuit for the 1995 model year. Axles included a Dana 30 up front (vacuum on some 91 XJs), a Dana 35 in the rear or 27-spline Chrysler 8.25", which is of comparable strength.

1996 (Chrysler from '95-'96): A very strange transition year. Original interior, mostly, with OBD-2 electronics running the show. Airbag introduced to the steering wheel which gives it a distinct look from other years. Many 1996-specific parts that are difficult-to-impossible to find, such as the fuel system. Avoid unless it's the least rusty or you like a challenge. Front Dana 30 standard with new larger U joints from previous years, increasing strength. Early XJs built this run had the 27-spline Chrysler 8.25", later models had the 29-spline which is comparable to a Dana 44. A Dana 35 could be found underneath as well.

1997-1999 (Chrysler from '96-'99): Full Chrysler OBD-2 system. This has all the whiz-bang features you'd expect from computer-run fuel injection (minus a knock sensor lol) - you have a standard OBD-2 port which you can run all kinds of fancy apps like Torque for the Android phones for a live display of information for very cheap. Most sensors redesigned from previous model years, some under-hood changes as well. Very troublesome heater control valve eliminated. MAP sensor now more reliable without a long vacuum tube that absorbs vibrations. Models with air conditioning shipped with a 124A alternator from the factory, versus older models shipping with 90A or less. Plastic fuel tank with a higher pressure, more reliable fuel system (no vacuum pressure regulator). New 'modern' interior with driver's and passenger's airbags. Exterior styling change as well - while the door trim isn't really much of a rust magnet anymore the rear bumper caps trap all kinds of nasty **** against the lower quarter panels. Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear, or 29-spline Chrysler 8.25.

2000-2001 (Chrysler from '99-'01): You'd think the last years of a vehicle's production would be the best, right? Well that was 1999. 2000 actually saw a major change that caused problems that weren't resolved until after the vehicle was out of production. The most significant is the move to a distributor-less ignition with coil-on-plug technology. The reason for this is a new head casting to accommodate the coil rail: the head is weak between cylinders 3 and 4 and cracks very easily if overheated. Doesn't sound like a huge issue until you remember that a lot of these things have been winter beaters. XJs will run for longer than most vehicles with minimal maintenance, the chances they've been overheated before are high. Be very wary of used 2000+ XJs. The problem with the head was resolved in 2002 for the TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokees. 2000-2001 TJs and WJs have this same problem. The other "special" things differ 2000-2001 XJs from their '97-'99 brethren exhaust system and the front axle. With tighter emissions targets Chrysler introduced a "California"-specific emissions system that includes 4 O2 sensors and two ADDITIONAL catalytic converters right in the exhaust manifold, for a total of three. This exhaust system became standard in 2001 across all models. 2000 had the old exhaust system as "49-state" or "Federal Emissions". This new manifold is quite large so Chrysler changed from a High-Pinion reverse-cut Dana 30 (stronger) to a Low-Pinion standard-cut Dana 30. The gears in these axles are slightly weaker just due to the direction they rotate in, but the drive shaft now comes out much lower and can catch on obstacles easily. This is not an issue if you don't plan on wheeling. Otherwise these XJs are almost identical to '97-'99.

If you encounter an '84-'91-ish XJ that has no working 4WD, the issue is likely just a vacuum hose. Easy fix. Rust can cause the shifter to bind up, too.

The two interiors are really '84-'96 and '97-'01. Obviously the older one looks like it's from the '80s. Practically, though, the original interior is more like a truck inside. There are plenty of flat accessible surfaces for all kinds of modifications, switches, you name it! I think the radio is a standard DIN mount, too. '97+ looks "nicer" but it's more like a car inside. You have cup holders, airbags, and a dedicated 12V socket, but places to put fun stuff are very sparse.

There are a number of other things typical of other years that can break that are easy to fix, read around here a bit more and you'll be prepared for whatever you encounter. Most of the above I learned here on CF, and is a big reason I bought my XJ in the first place.
Old 10-18-2013, 04:42 PM
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I love my 2001. No major problems with it at all.
Old 10-23-2013, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Coastie05
I love my 2001. No major problems with it at all.
ueah, it would be nice to say you've got the last year too


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