whats the best axle for my setup?
#1
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
whats the best axle for my setup?
future setup is IRO 5.5 long arm 33in tires 4.10 gears lockers front and rear
hoping to do most of the rubicon trail one day without using too many bypass
those are the basics. heavily armored
EDIT:: my xj will be 5 speed ax15 no matter what. I'm pretty heart set on the 4.10 gearing
I was thinking HP 30 reverse cut up front and D44 in the rear and put a front shaft in it
(so I only have to carry one spare, right?)
I was planning on axle swap being my first upgrade to my stock xj
is that the best place to start? this will be my first build
does anyone have a better axle combo option?
hoping to do most of the rubicon trail one day without using too many bypass
those are the basics. heavily armored
EDIT:: my xj will be 5 speed ax15 no matter what. I'm pretty heart set on the 4.10 gearing
I was thinking HP 30 reverse cut up front and D44 in the rear and put a front shaft in it
(so I only have to carry one spare, right?)
I was planning on axle swap being my first upgrade to my stock xj
is that the best place to start? this will be my first build
does anyone have a better axle combo option?
Last edited by Atmos; 12-23-2011 at 03:08 PM.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Well... that's not the reason we use fronts in the rear. We do that because as you lift the vehicle, the distance between the axle and transfercase increases, making the stock slip yolk slide further out of the transfer case and you start losing fluid. So we install a Slip Yolk Eliminator (SYE) which means the yolk can not slide in and out of the transfer case, so we have to use a CV type driveshaft (which is what our fronts are, like telescopic). If you put in a CV type driveshaft without an SYE, your yolk is just going to fall out of your transfer case.
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Year: 97
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Engine: 4.0L
#6
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well... that's not the reason we use fronts in the rear. We do that because as you lift the vehicle, the distance between the axle and transfercase increases, making the stock slip yolk slide further out of the transfer case and you start losing fluid. So we install a Slip Yolk Eliminator (SYE) which means the yolk can not slide in and out of the transfer case, so we have to use a CV type driveshaft (which is what our fronts are, like telescopic). If you put in a CV type driveshaft without an SYE, your yolk is just going to fall out of your transfer case.
so I should be fine with the CV yeah?
Last edited by Atmos; 12-23-2011 at 03:17 PM.
#7
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
does the 8.25 come stock in a 97+?
I didnt want to have to mess with a C-clip though
whats wrong with the D44?
Last edited by Atmos; 12-23-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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#8
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok so why is the 8.8 or 8.25 better than the dana 44? do they hold lockers better?
I really didnt want to have to mess with a C-clip or do much cutting.
also, what can I do up front if I want more strenght than the HP D30? D44 up front?
I really didnt want to have to mess with a C-clip or do much cutting.
also, what can I do up front if I want more strenght than the HP D30? D44 up front?
Last edited by Atmos; 12-23-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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Year: 1999
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Front dana 30 is a pretty tough little axle and the 8.8 has a larger ring gear then the 8.25 and larger axle tubes disc brakes and some have 4.10 factory and have factory 31 spline shafts
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
is the reverse cut HP 30 better?
to be honest I'm still probably gonna go with the 44.
I was just hoping someone would back me up on that one
oh, and is an axle swap/restoration the best upgrade to make first?
I'm just trying to find out what I should save up for first
to be honest I'm still probably gonna go with the 44.
I was just hoping someone would back me up on that one
oh, and is an axle swap/restoration the best upgrade to make first?
I'm just trying to find out what I should save up for first
#12
Originally Posted by jskwibble1
is the reverse cut HP 30 better?
to be honest I'm still probably gonna go with the 44.
I was just hoping someone would back me up on that one
oh, and is an axle swap/restoration the best upgrade to make first?
I'm just trying to find out what I should save up for first
to be honest I'm still probably gonna go with the 44.
I was just hoping someone would back me up on that one
oh, and is an axle swap/restoration the best upgrade to make first?
I'm just trying to find out what I should save up for first
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'd choose a D44 over both but they are hard to find in the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, 3 years in the XJ and hit and miss in later TJs. I don't like c-clips either and there is much more support for the 44 vs the other two mentioned. If you can find one go for it.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i would go the d44 rear also its 30 spline and tons of aftermarket support and there bolt in if you find an xj 44 and a disc break swap is pretty easy and if you're gonna keep the 30 in the front get chromo shafts or atleas the shafts out of a 97-99 or some other models with abs they have bigger 760 u joints