These are the same brand I installed too.

 

And the rubber mallet was really tough, too!! LOL.

 

I'm not sure that is a good idea to tighten lugs in this manner.

 

As long as you don't booger the lug nut threads......

 

Seems like that is what will happen. The screwdriver is resting on a few ridges of threads, which can easily be flattened or bent. Could also bend/break/stress the studs.
I would at least install nuts on the studs.

 

Right, it would probably be safer to throw the lugs on there and pry against them, as opposed to the threads on the studs.

 

Yup.

 

Really guys, you are over and under thinking this. How much torque/force do you really think the hub sees? That's a 3/8 square pry bar; at narrowest contact that's 7 thread crests on a 1/2-20 unf stud. Resting on two studs. On and off several times a year for over 300Kkm, never fear, no flat threads. The intent here is to insure that good quality spacers are used and that the internal nuts on the studs are torqued. It's the torquing that's important. Sure put the nuts on to protect the threads if that makes you more confident, but from long experience, no thread flattening here.
A good spacer will have quality studs to which the wheel fastens, these also to be torqued.
What we don't want to see is someone applying just a spacer, like a flat disc over the hub studs, no external studs, and then thinking a few threads engagement will hold the wheel on. Such an installation will fail, every time, and I think that results in the true root cause of many spacer horror stories that we here about.
Also, to save you the rubber mallet applications, do antiseize the hub and spacer. Grime will get in there, binding inside at the hubcentric fit of the spacers onto the hub centre. The alum spacers can lock up on the hubs making your next wheel service frustrating.
You may still need a moderate, moderate, not heavy, application of the rubber mallet, but with the antiseize, service separation will occur.

 

I have an update on the Spidertrax wheel spacers/adapter I bought. I posted my own thread and took the feedback of others on this forum, it was all thought about and appreciated whether I took the advice or not. I installed them awhile ago but the cut sheet says to check the torque on things after you have installed them after traveling about 50 miles. I followed all of the instructions in the kit except for one, I used the blue threadlock instead of the red they send with the kit. We all know the Red is supposed to be forever and I am not that attached to my rear drum brakes so this was my determination. I took all of the tires off and checked the torque today and there is not one problem or loose bolt anywhere. I am not burning up the highway so I cannot speak for how it will work for anyone else but so far I feel that I have installed them properly and they are doing the job.

 

My thought is just use the parking brake, for the front I used a piece of 3/8" thick by 2" wide flat stock in the same manner. No boogered threads and you just place it on top of one lug and under another. If my wheels fall off I know it is on me. LOL

 

Wouldn't the best method be to put the transfer case in 4lo?and trans in park (or a gear if you have a manual)?

 

When I installed them my next door neighbor works from home, for the fronts I had him hit the brake pedal. The rear brakes, the parking brake worked fine adding the transfer case may be the way but if you have a simpler way why not do it?

 

Reckon that works too

I'd have to teach my neighbors how to use brakes if I wanted their help as they are Amish so it could be against their religion but not sure.