Just found this, but want to hear something funny? When tire guys get together they rarely discuss tires... They talk about some of the crazy *** customers they had to deal with. It ends up being a discussion about observations in human nature. lol

We get so that we can read what we are in for as they are walking up and by their body language before they even say anything. "yep... I knew he was going to be trouble". lol

 

So, can you guys be specific? Instead of telling a Newbe like me what a good tire would be, how about what brand and model of tire to stay away from? And why? I don't know jack about 4wd driving or what makes a tire good or bad.

I will never get snow where I live but would like to stay away from garbage tires. No matter where I live or drive.

Also, I am not opposed to having a second set of rims/tires for the few times I get to the play in snow or visit family in Idaho.

 

Having worked in the tire biz for awhile, my opinion is that you should steer clear what we call at the shop "commercial tires". That meaning the tires you see alot on tv commercials or that are heavily advertised compared to others. Those brands being Bridgestone, Michelin, Goodyear, and firestone. These brands attract customers through brand recognition, but their products are overpriced for what you get, and other brands offer better tires at better prices. Imo, Cooper has the best all around lineup, and their sub brands make nice tires for their price as well.

 

^^^^ x2 Even though you changed my whole understanding of what a commercial tire is. lol

 

If you shift it correctly, it's not an issue.

My wife does it every winter with no problems.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

 

yep. if i'm driving down the road, and i see a snow covered patch, i let off the gas, engage the clutch or shift into neutral, shift into 4hi, then let the clutch out slowly and continue at speed. then after that snow patch, i do the same to take it out of 4hi. but i have left the clutch/trans alone and shifted on the fly with no problems also.

for 4lo, i always come to a stop when engaging or disengaging 4lo. trans in neutral or clutch in.

 

I know how to shift it correctly it doesn't engage or disengage like a 231 does. If I put it in 4x4 high I have to drive a couple hundred feet or back up a little bit for it to engage, same thing when going back to 2wd. The 231 will engage pretty much as soon as you pull the lever. If you are in a slick situation with the 231 and you rear wheels start to spin you just let off of the gas an shift into 4x4 and away you go. With the 242 in the same situation I have to shift into 4x4 then rock it back and forth to get it to engage.

 

+1. This is how I do it and I probably shift in and out of 2hi and 4hi at least twice a trip this time a year. I would assume with an automatic you just leave the trans in Drive.

That sounds more like the mechanical condition of YOUR particular 242. I doubt Chrysler management would let that kind of inconvenience out to the mass market for such a high volume car... even 20 some odd years ago.

 

I guess with 240,000 miles on it my 242 could be getting worn out, but it doesn't make any noise and the fluid still looked good when I changed it last. It doesn't really matter I have a np231 waiting to go in.

 

I have found this to be a problem in a lot of four wheel drives of different makes because the rear differential gears are worn more than the front differential gears. It creates a slight bind in the transfer case. And it is normal, how often does the front gears have load and wear put on them compared to the rear? In the old days this is what created what we used to call "four wheel hop", it was similar to what we now call death wobble.

 

new points of view are always fun

 

Lol... I was like... Oh no... now they are going to confuse people.

It is a pretty good reference though.

 

nah, when I explain it to peeps they get it. They don't say "I don't have a semi, I have an accord!" Haha.....but the dudes that do actually need real commercial tires on their rigs or whatnot usually always have their preference and you can't get them to budge haha

 

Sounds like worn out shift fork pads.. My 242 started too do that a few years back.
Replaced the pads after finding one worn down to the metal. Now it shifts great.

Pic of shift fork pads.



Link for pads.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/918676_23.htm


The 242 is a little finicky,you have to be moving at least 1mph while engaging full time. But if you get stuck and have no way of moving then grab part time. If it still doesn't engage, dropping down to 4 lo will work without the jeep moving first..

 

Thank you. Good to know. Especially about Cooper tires. My daughter just put those on her Outback, so, she will be happy to hear that little tidbit.

What do you think about General Tire? Until recently, my wife was running Generals on her Forester. Personally, I loved the way her car handled with Generals but, she went with a different brand this time around. Something I am not familiar with. Doral, I think. She was trying to save some greenbacks.

I just peeked outside at the XJ and found that the PO put Hankook "Mileage Plus II" on it. Not really familiar with that brand either. The tread looks like something I would run on my sister's Buick.