Where can I learn more about rear differentials+ options like Torsen trutrack
#1
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Paradise actually. Also known as Central New Mexico @ 7 K feet
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
Where can I learn more about rear differentials+ options like Torsen trutrack
I have seen the animations on diffs. I need to know more about how to change an open diff into something better . I see 400 dollar plus prices on `lockers'. Is there a less expensive mod to lock an open diff on demand? or are they always locked. [ that's probably is a bad idea ] I'm not rock bashing, just need to get up a 1mile plus, steep rocky access road in plenty of snow at 7 mph or less. Someone suggested Lunchbox locker... what is that does it live inside my diff? Can it break and kill the diff?
Ron
Ron
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
There are all kinds of lockers. Some are automatic, and some can be actuated by switch.
Some can be controlled by vacuum and some can be controlled by electric.
I recommend one that you can toggle on or off on demand and is controlled by electric. These kinds of lockers give you more control over when it's actuated and when it's not, and it's the same kind of locker that Jeep installs in Rubicon axles from the factory in both TJs and JKs.
Lockers are difficult to install, as you have to tear out your whole differential to get it in. I suggest letting an axle shop or someone who deals with axle gearing handle the work. And while you're in there, consider re-gearing your ring and pinion to something that fits your tire size and desired torque trims.
Lockers go inside the diff, and they live in there yes. They CAN break your axles if you drive wrong so I suggest reading about how to use a locker properly. This is why they say not to lock unless you have a strong axle. For instance, the Chrysler 8.25, Dana 44, and Ford 8.8 are each good axles, but the Dana 35 is not and has the biggest chance of breaking under the added locked stress. Generally speaking, if you're going slow, a locker should be harmless. On the other hand, if you're flooring it off-road, you have the highest chance of twisting or breaking something while locked.
Check out OX lockers. The whole process won't be cheap.
Some can be controlled by vacuum and some can be controlled by electric.
I recommend one that you can toggle on or off on demand and is controlled by electric. These kinds of lockers give you more control over when it's actuated and when it's not, and it's the same kind of locker that Jeep installs in Rubicon axles from the factory in both TJs and JKs.
Lockers are difficult to install, as you have to tear out your whole differential to get it in. I suggest letting an axle shop or someone who deals with axle gearing handle the work. And while you're in there, consider re-gearing your ring and pinion to something that fits your tire size and desired torque trims.
Lockers go inside the diff, and they live in there yes. They CAN break your axles if you drive wrong so I suggest reading about how to use a locker properly. This is why they say not to lock unless you have a strong axle. For instance, the Chrysler 8.25, Dana 44, and Ford 8.8 are each good axles, but the Dana 35 is not and has the biggest chance of breaking under the added locked stress. Generally speaking, if you're going slow, a locker should be harmless. On the other hand, if you're flooring it off-road, you have the highest chance of twisting or breaking something while locked.
Check out OX lockers. The whole process won't be cheap.
Last edited by thatXJguy; 03-09-2017 at 12:09 PM.
#3
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From: Paradise actually. Also known as Central New Mexico @ 7 K feet
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
Soooooo.... it seems possibly better to get a diff that already does that. Or, is that wishful thinking?
#4
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Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#5
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 793
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From: Southgate, Michigan
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 I6
Are we just going to completely skip over lunch box lockers guys? They are no hard to install if you know basic mechanic work. Search Aussie or spartan lunchbox locker. Cheap yet strong and will work great for a daily.
#6
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Joined: Jun 2016
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From: York PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre I6
I think the lunchbox locker will be your best bet, Ron. Locking a differential can be an expensive mod. The lunchbox locker like an Aussie can be had for around 200-300 bucks. If you install yourself, you will save money there too.
Also, realize a lunchbox locker is always "activated". This will effect your road manners a bit.
the cheapest way is just to weld your differential together. But that is a bad idea. LOL.
Also, realize a lunchbox locker is always "activated". This will effect your road manners a bit.
the cheapest way is just to weld your differential together. But that is a bad idea. LOL.
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#8
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
cheapest would be to weld your diff like drift guys do, although not ideal for offroad use
then you have the lunchbox lockers like shooptube said, which is a great compromise between welding a diff and getting a selectable ($$) locker. if i'm not mistaken a lunchbox locks when power is applied to it, so for example if you install one in the front of your jeep, it won't engage until your get into 4wd.
there's also limisted slip diffs (LSD) which were/are available from factory or after market. i think people prefer a locker to LSD though.
and you have the pricey ones, air/eletric/manual lockers where you control when you want your diff to be locked.
that's a basic break down, look into each one of these and add the keyword "cherokee xj" on google and you'll find all the info you need. you'll always have people saying one is better than the other, and then someone replying saying the opposite, there's not real answer, it all depends on your needs and budget.
then you have the lunchbox lockers like shooptube said, which is a great compromise between welding a diff and getting a selectable ($$) locker. if i'm not mistaken a lunchbox locks when power is applied to it, so for example if you install one in the front of your jeep, it won't engage until your get into 4wd.
there's also limisted slip diffs (LSD) which were/are available from factory or after market. i think people prefer a locker to LSD though.
and you have the pricey ones, air/eletric/manual lockers where you control when you want your diff to be locked.
that's a basic break down, look into each one of these and add the keyword "cherokee xj" on google and you'll find all the info you need. you'll always have people saying one is better than the other, and then someone replying saying the opposite, there's not real answer, it all depends on your needs and budget.
#9
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,474
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
Okay, I responded in one of your other threads, but the one thing I'm not seeing...what do you actually HAVE?
Some other clarification here for you. Axle refers to the entire assembly. Housing, pumpkin, differential, shafts, carrier, pinion, ring gear, LSD, locker, cross pin, seals, bearings, etc.... all refer to the components inside said axle.
Post up your year, model, trim level, engine, trans, whatever you can, to help us try to help you identify what exactly you have. Pics are a huge bonus.
Some other clarification here for you. Axle refers to the entire assembly. Housing, pumpkin, differential, shafts, carrier, pinion, ring gear, LSD, locker, cross pin, seals, bearings, etc.... all refer to the components inside said axle.
Post up your year, model, trim level, engine, trans, whatever you can, to help us try to help you identify what exactly you have. Pics are a huge bonus.
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,009
Likes: 260
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Correct me if I'm wrong, Ron, but it sounds to me that you're not looking to gain traction for recreational offroading but to actually get to where you need to go. Do you or do you want to do any semi-difficult offroading that would benefit from having a locker? Do you drive this vehicle on pavement more often than not? How important is your budget?
I think a Detriot Truetrac limited slip would fit your application well. It won't negatively effect your on-road characteristics but will give you the traction you're looking for. Great for snow and less-technical offroading. Downside is the units are not cheap and installing them is a task best left to professionals because it requires setting the gears up. This would only be the route to go for a long term investment.
If you're not looking to spend $1,000+ then a Spartan, Aussie, Lock-Rite, or any other lunchbox locker will get you where you need to go for about $300 and a couple hours in the garage/driveway. Just be aware that they will change your on-road characteristics a bit and will be a little noisy.
There really isn't a "right" answer to this question. You'll have to do your homework and make a decision on what to buy based on what you think you need and what you're willing to spend. I've been sitting on this question for like two years.
I think a Detriot Truetrac limited slip would fit your application well. It won't negatively effect your on-road characteristics but will give you the traction you're looking for. Great for snow and less-technical offroading. Downside is the units are not cheap and installing them is a task best left to professionals because it requires setting the gears up. This would only be the route to go for a long term investment.
If you're not looking to spend $1,000+ then a Spartan, Aussie, Lock-Rite, or any other lunchbox locker will get you where you need to go for about $300 and a couple hours in the garage/driveway. Just be aware that they will change your on-road characteristics a bit and will be a little noisy.
There really isn't a "right" answer to this question. You'll have to do your homework and make a decision on what to buy based on what you think you need and what you're willing to spend. I've been sitting on this question for like two years.
#14
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 35
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From: Portland, OR
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
After watching the above videos, I was sold on getting a TrueTrac. After I called a local, very well-known 4x4 shop that specializes in YJs, they were adamant that I go for a Trac-Lok. They are cheaper ($1000 installed, vs $1300 for TrueTrac). The main reason they suggested avoiding Torsen (TrueTrac) is that in reverse, you are guaranteed to have only one wheel with power. Seems strange, esp since Audis and Subaru STIs have Torsen (I believe).. Any thoughts? Sorry to hijack a thread..
#15
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,683
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From: Hudson, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Define "basic," because gearing and diff work short of changing oil has long been constituted as "difficult." Even most shops hire out to have a gear guy do differential work. There is a lot of knowledge you have to know when tinkering with your differential, which requires an understanding of different properties of a differential and having the proper tools to ensure proper alignment/backlash/preload/etc..
Last edited by thatXJguy; 03-11-2017 at 01:52 PM.