Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old 04-09-2015 | 09:48 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by swampxj86
Exactly. Not sure if you have already but it wouldn't hurt to do all the gaskets on the new motor while its out of the jeep. Also you can do the timing with the distributorless module and scan tool
That was gonna be my next question. How hard are these things to time. Im not scared of it, just never done one before. And engine is going to have new gaskets before being swapped in. Im going to degrease the engine and bay to best of my ability
Old 04-09-2015 | 09:55 AM
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It wasn't hard I did it on my snap-on modus. Pretty similar to a distributor, just set it as close as possible then turn to advance or retarded timing.
Old 04-09-2015 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by swampxj86
It wasn't hard I did it on my snap-on modus. Pretty similar to a distributor, just set it as close as possible then turn to advance or retarded timing.
I am gonna want these at TDC before I pull both the cam sensor and distributor making timing easier?
Old 04-09-2015 | 10:47 AM
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Correct you want cylinder 1 to be at TDC.
Old 04-12-2015 | 08:47 PM
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I grew up in Wheaton, IL, now live in Tallahassee, FL. I have done quite a few swaps of older XJ motors in 00-01 Cherokee's with the Dual Precats and the 0331 head.

1) The Exhaust manifold of the 00-01 0331 head will not fit over the bigger exhaust ports of the 6330 head on the older XJ/ZJ motors. You will need to use an after market header, I have used both Rugged Ridge Stainless headers as well as Cheap Ebay Stainless Headers like the one I linked below - just an example - mine came from DNA motoring on eBay (they look identical as the RR) - The two center bottom bolts are a bear, everytime it takes me 1-1.5 hours just to get those two bolts in, the header to downpipe bolts can be a bear too (I have considered tack the head bolt to it).... and tend to loosen up so use loctite. Also using China headers I have always used Permatex Copper High Temp on both sides of the gasket and never had a header leak (drag racing buddy suggested it). http://www.ebay.com/itm/TUBULAR-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXTRACTOR-00-06-JEEP-WRANGLER-TJ-4-0L-l6-AMC-242-/231529825158?hash=item35e840c386&vxp=mtr
2) You just need to fab some simple brackets to hold the coil pack to the valve cover studs (Chevy Starter Shims work great), but I hate those dang coil packs, blown a few, always a pain to get the plug in at the back by firewall, tough to check spark in the woods, so the last couple I have done the "Viper Coil" conversion (a Caravan coil will work too) and getting spark plug wires. Viper Coil Conversion

3) The Cam Sensor vs. Distributor, as said put Cylinder 1 at TDC, you will see a hole that you can slip a toothpick in on the Cam Sensor to hold the center spinning piece in place, then insert the Cam Sensor. My understand is it controls the fuel injector timing as well and it really needs to be adjusted with the Proper Computer by Chrysler, but I have always done it by ear like old school distributor, get it close, adjust until it sounds like it runs best, and tighten.





Note some older models had a temp sensor in the head, you can either just leave the sensor in it, or pull it and plug it.

I have always swapped the intake manifold over, 1) the later model manifolds (99-01) flow better, 2) I got to pull the intake manifold anyways to swap exhaust manifold, 3) all sensors are on the intake.

If you have any questions, feel free to hollar.

Bryan

Last edited by bryweb; 04-12-2015 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 04-12-2015 | 08:59 PM
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Not sure how the previous posters did not have issues with the exhaust manifold fitting over the bigger ports on earlier motors.

0331 Exhaust Manifold on a 6330 head Google Search
Old 04-12-2015 | 11:55 PM
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I used an older head manifold, hence why I said to use the g.c donor exhaust. I will agree with you on the viper coil on being a good upgrade.
Old 04-13-2015 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by swampxj86
I used an older head manifold, hence why I said to use the g.c donor exhaust. I will agree with you on the viper coil on being a good upgrade.
What did you do with the extra O2 Sensors, because the 00-01 has dual precats with O2 Sensors before and after each precat. (4) Total ? Did you just not use them?, or welded bungs in and added them? or ???

I know they use to have O2 simulators you could plug in, but those are now outlawed in the US.
Old 04-13-2015 | 01:20 PM
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I drilled a hole and welded a bung on and used spark plug defoulers to space the 02 so it wouldn't throw a code simulators have always been illegal on non offroad vehicles but you could also wire up a resistor.

Last edited by swampxj86; 04-13-2015 at 01:26 PM.
Old 03-30-2020 | 07:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by swampxj86
Correct you want cylinder 1 to be at TDC.
dumb question I removed the can sensor from old engine before setting it to TDC how do I get this correct when putting it in new engine thanks
Old 03-30-2020 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mason Slaughter
dumb question I removed the can sensor from old engine before setting it to TDC how do I get this correct when putting it in new engine thanks
come on man make your own thread this one is almost five years dead
Old 03-30-2020 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mason Slaughter
dumb question I removed the can sensor from old engine before setting it to TDC how do I get this correct when putting it in new engine thanks
Others may have a better method, but this is what I do.

You want to use a toothpick (#2) and put it through the holes, then you want to put cylinder 1 TDC (OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!! not the non-compression stroke, put finger over hole and feel pressure.) Then install the Cam Sensor and usually for me the cap wire plugin points towards the Antenna, once started adjust by ear until it runs best. (Requires Chrysler Dealer Computer to setup correctly, but I never have done it)


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