Hello, I did a stroker build on a 2001 XJ and started it yesterday for the first time. I had what appeared to be coolant coming from the rear of the valve cover so I freaked a little bit and pulled the valve cover to see if my "New Casting" Clearwater Head cracked. No sign of cracking or coolant in the top of the head or coolant loss, probably just some spilled coolant that ran back to the rear of the cover, but I did discover that 3 of my rocker arms were not getting oil. Aside from the front two and the very last one, all were squirting streams of oil. I am using CompCams 10-30 startup oil. All lifters appear to be pumped up. There is no up and down slack whatsoever, very solid. I have a Melling HV pump with the proper length pick up. Oil pressure reads 20 at idle and about 40 when driving. Does anyone have any advice on how I can get these things squirting oil?

THANKS TO ALL!

 

Yep, sounds like you didn't set the preload and toasted the lifters. Even one 'squirter' (beat) will rob the others of enough oil. Just went through this myself. Pull the head and replace the lifters and be thankful you caught it early. Then set the lash on the new ones before you fire it up the first time.

 

The problem was noticed on the stand when I turned the pump with a drill. The same three rockers. There's a thread that I posted about it. No one seemed to think it was anything to be concerned about. It may be the lifters, but I don't think they are fried from the startup. How do you set preload in non adjustable rockers? The lifters all had the same amount of slack on the stand. Now they are fully pumped up. The rod length is spec'd to the cam by Clearwater Heads and approved by the guy at CompCams. I think they were .010 longer than stock. 9.5" if memory serves me.
The stock rods did the same thing btw. I feel like there's something more to this...

 

If you have to ask how to set preload, you're already in deep do-do. Comp Cams sells the shims you'll need. I used them. Stop and take the time to learn now and you'll be rewarded by very good running lifters. From what you describe your preload is much too tight esp given the oversized pushrods, which are fine, as long as you set the preload. So your lifters will show a hammer pattern on the bottom where the y ride the cam. the ones not oiling cant because they're so tight, the others already ruptured and squirt oil, robbing the oil pressure f rom the lifter galley. I use the below capscrew method, but also did the dial micrometer method. I determined that the capscrew method is better because of all the variables with setting up the micorometer each time. You want .020 t0 .060, which is less than the thickness of a US dime, so yes, it matters, a lot. Or they wouldn't spec it. Interestingly it's the same spec for most any non adjustable valve engine. Its tricky but well worth it to learn.

 

Thanks, I'll study this.

 

Nothing beats when you get it right and fire it up and they all start nicely oiling. heh! Here is a link to a story of another stroker that went through the same thing, although he never admits he screwed up the preload. Video of the squirter.
https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5003

 

I can't believe that this is the first I've heard of this process. I've only heard, through several conversations (after determining correct rod length), to just torque and forget the rockers and that's it. I've been approaching this as if the three without oil were the problem, not the others that "squirt". Could you describe how much oil comes out of a properly functioning set of lifters? Is it a visible flow, or does it just seep up slowly?

Thanks again for the info!

 

Not surprising. It's an art, if you were to ask half the people on here how to do it they would say non adjustable and just torque them, which is true if it just came from Mopar because they do all the measuring at the factory. Sometimes you will see a pushrod with a colored band on it, like orange, this designates a certain size. This is where the factory added a longer shorter pushrod to achieve preload. I have seen engines with just a couple like that and the others not colored. I also cannot believe the people at comp cams never heard of it, can you ask them for the shims and see what they say then? I can dig up the part number if you need it. The oil galley comes right up from the pump to the middle of the lifters then splits front and back, to shed some light. When you first fire it up, it takes a minute, but they all should gradually start to flow to the point where it fills up the rocker where it contacts the valve and then down the valve spring. Each will have a good reservoir. Don't bother waiting for it now, it ain't gonna happen if you have a gusher, one gusher is enough to rob the oil pressure. You still have it going to the mains and rods tho. Yes its visible flow.
Its really not bad once you get the hang of it. Take the plugs out and it will turn over with the serp belt by hand, then just turn until each E and I valve on the cylinder youre on is fully closed. (Base circle) Then loosen both the cap screws. By hand with a small socket, with sensitive fingers, one by one, turn them down until you just feel resistance, where you have taken all the play, or lash out. Then put your 3/8 torque wrench on it and count the turns as in the diagram, bringing it to 21ft lbs. You are shooting for 1/2 to 3/4 turns if memory serves, or .040 which is midpoint of the spec, You won't get that exactly but pretty close because the shims only come in .010 and ...i forget. Add shims (you will surely need to because of the pushrods they spec, and or milled head or new head gasket, or new cam with different lift) until you are in the sweet spot of half to three quarters turn. Also you’ll see with the instructions that come with the shims, you must shim both valves equally because of the bridge. This method works because the thread pitch is known.
Lube everything up good with cam lube , make sure vacuum lines plugged to it doesn't race when you start it, or prime it like you did, and when it starts don't operate at anything over an idle until you see them all oiling nicely.
They gave you the pushrods not because of the preload, but because of the geometry of the cam.

 

Love the info! CompCams has always been shy to give specific advice so I take it with a grain of salt. I took info from them and along with the head builder chose CompCams Magnum Rod size 9.647", (stock is 9.639), that's the nearest size to stock. That may explain too much preload.I'm going to check it with the old rods before I pull the head. I know these engines are durable, and I noticed nothing violent or loud from it, so I'm thinking that no permanent damage has been done. Temp never above 210 and 20-40 oil pressure gives me hope...
-Much thanks!

 

Yeah I think I ran my zj for 4 months before I discovered it. Maybe not. I cracked it open because it didn't sound right. It had munched one of the rocker tips where it rides the valve pretty good, but yeah all I did was replace the lifters and set em and maybe a few rockers n pivots..
Yeah changing anything will affect it. Your OP will drop a bit if you do it right because ...now they all get oil! Which is much better.
I actually did a whole thread on it, but I didn't refer you to that because it was my beginner effort and full of mistakes, still lots of iinfo there