8.25 disc swap
06-07-2011 | 11:43 PM
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Gonna be a bit harder than on an XJ. It is an 8.25 but if it's 4wd it's the small 6 lug pattern Dodge used for a while. I'm not sure what other vehicles used that pattern and came with factory disc.
06-15-2011 | 08:14 PM
#6
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 3
From: Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
Well... Here is my conversion. I used a kit for a drum 35 on a ZJ. Cost was $500 shipped to my door from rusty's offroad. http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=STOP You will need to figure out what to do with your ebrake cables though.
Okay so here is my official "Brake upgrade/repair" post.
I was planning on doing the rear brake conversion later but the rear drums started knocking again as well as a leak in the rear brake line... I ended up having to replace the line from the proportioning valve to the rear soft line then from the soft line out...
Here is what I started with... Old, clunky....drums.
Say bye bye to the drums!
Next I have to pull the axle shafts to get the old backing plates off...
Axle shafts out...
Now I had to disconnect the wheel cylinder line and unbolt the backing plate...
Then hammer out the old studs...
Now install the new backing plate
Installed the E brake hardware then axle shafts, spiders, cross shaft and bolt. Installed cover and filled with gear oil. The E brake is a manual drum setup but I can live with that... The instructions where pretty vague... one thing they didn't mention is you have to remove these clips from the backing plate or the brake pads won't go on...
installed rotor and bolted on caliper.
After bleeding the brakes and adjusting the e brake I went out to bed in the new brakes. Then snapped some pics with my phone of my completed work.
No more clicking, no more clunking... no more grabbing... and no more leaking! These brakes are pretty sweet.
I was planning on doing the rear brake conversion later but the rear drums started knocking again as well as a leak in the rear brake line... I ended up having to replace the line from the proportioning valve to the rear soft line then from the soft line out...
Here is what I started with... Old, clunky....drums.
Say bye bye to the drums!
Next I have to pull the axle shafts to get the old backing plates off...
Axle shafts out...
Now I had to disconnect the wheel cylinder line and unbolt the backing plate...
Then hammer out the old studs...
Now install the new backing plate
Installed the E brake hardware then axle shafts, spiders, cross shaft and bolt. Installed cover and filled with gear oil. The E brake is a manual drum setup but I can live with that... The instructions where pretty vague... one thing they didn't mention is you have to remove these clips from the backing plate or the brake pads won't go on...
installed rotor and bolted on caliper.
After bleeding the brakes and adjusting the e brake I went out to bed in the new brakes. Then snapped some pics with my phone of my completed work.
No more clicking, no more clunking... no more grabbing... and no more leaking! These brakes are pretty sweet.
06-16-2011 | 02:06 PM
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
buying kits are expensive....I found a used back axle from a grand cherokee for $150 with parking brake cables and everything(it also had brand new pads and good rotors. I pulled all the parts ( backing plates, studs, calipers, rotors, etc). If done properly you can leave the drum brake parking brake intact and remove the whole plate. Then take a dremmel and slightly ream out the axle hole and install on your Dak. It's pretty simple and took about 1.5 hrs including axle removal.
I should also add that I was able to sell the remainder of the axle for $80.
I should also add that I was able to sell the remainder of the axle for $80.
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06-16-2011 | 02:59 PM
#8
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 3
From: Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
Depends on where you live and the axle you get. Many jy axles the brakes are rusted and/or worn out junk. It would have cost me as much or more to get a setup from a ZJ. Also the cables from a ZJ wont work.
With the kit I knew everything was new
With the kit I knew everything was new
06-16-2011 | 10:20 PM
#9
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Dillsburg, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I did this swap with ZJ parts. Cost me a grand total of $60 which included good rotors and good pads. You will need rotors, calipers, pads, wheel studs, caliper mounting brackets with parking brake hardware and shoes, soft brake lines, studs from the axle housing (to mount the caliper bracket to housing) and some cable clamps. I think that's it. You'll want the wheel studs because the rotor hat is thicker than a drum, this will ensure proper lug to thread contact. You'll want the studs from the axle house because the caliper bracket is thicker than what is on there now. There is a write-up somewhere on how to hook up the e-brake cable. That is what the cable clamps are for. I'll try to find it and post it. All this is for what i used on my XJ. How it applies to your Dakota, I'm not sure. I'm hoping that it'll all fall into place...
06-16-2011 | 10:23 PM
#10
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Dillsburg, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Also, you'll also have to get creative with bending your existing hard line to take up the extra slack. It'll be too long after you're done. I rebent, shortened and flared mine to fit. Also, you'll have to figure out a way to mount the free end of the soft line. I drilled a hole in the axle tube, tapped it and used a bolt to hold it down. I've seen other guys weld it to the axle tube.
06-16-2011 | 10:24 PM
#11
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Dillsburg, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
06-20-2011 | 08:09 AM
#13
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Dillsburg, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Just ran across this on CL. Thought you might be interested (although a little pricey for factory and most likely used parts): http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/2448131429.html.
06-20-2011 | 09:15 AM
#14
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 3
From: Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stock
Here's the write-up for the e-brake cable: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/no-...version-17386/.
I don't know if I would trust that U clamp to not slip. At least you keep the molded end with the loop method.