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Old 09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:44 PM
  #16636  
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Originally Posted by Marks2000XJ
Does anyone know it the stock pitman arm off a 93-98 grand cherokee will work as a drop pitman arm on an xj? According to what I have read, the pitman arm off a grand cherokee appears to be longer than the stock xj arm.

Just trying to save a few dollars. I can get one from RockAuto for $25 if it will work.
It is about a 1" drop. You shouldn't need a drop pitman arm at your lift height though.
Old 05-19-2013, 09:07 PM
  #16637  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
It is about a 1" drop. You shouldn't need a drop pitman arm at your lift height though.
I am about to go to 5.5 or 6 inches of lift. I have most the parts but lack a few items. The pitman arm is one of them.

Just by dumb like I ran across the ZJ was about an inch taller than the stock XJ pitman arm. After further research I found a brand new one on ebay for $15 shipped to my door.

Just wanted to make sure this would work on an XJ. Buying the IRO drop track bar bracket upgrade as I already have their track bar.

I figure this combo should give me parallel track bar and drag link after lift and while eliminating the steep angles.
Old 05-19-2013, 10:40 PM
  #16638  
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Originally Posted by Marks2000XJ

I am about to go to 5.5 or 6 inches of lift. I have most the parts but lack a few items. The pitman arm is one of them.

Just by dumb like I ran across the ZJ was about an inch taller than the stock XJ pitman arm. After further research I found a brand new one on ebay for $15 shipped to my door.

Just wanted to make sure this would work on an XJ. Buying the IRO drop track bar bracket upgrade as I already have their track bar.

I figure this combo should give me parallel track bar and drag link after lift and while eliminating the steep angles.
That mount drops the bar 5/8" iirc. Still shouldn't need a drop pitman arm to get the correct angles.
Old 05-19-2013, 10:53 PM
  #16639  
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Originally Posted by oromis
So I am new to XJ's and solid front axle vehicles in general but I decided to lift my XJ anyway. A buddy of mine and I did the lift ourselves. It was the 3" rough country AAL w/o lower control arms. As expected I had driveline vibes and death wobble after the lift. Vibes were cured via tcase drop. After the t case drop I took it to get an alignment. It was out of alignment and it cured 95% of my DW.

Before the lift I noticed that when turning very tight to the left (like into or out of a parking space) my front left wheel would kind of hop. It almost felt like there was tension being stored up and the hop happened as the tension was released. What does this mean and could it be a source of the DW.

While trying to diagnose my DW I crawled under the jeep and had a buddy turn the wheel back and forth. The track bar is tight and does not move. However I noticed that the whole front end kind of crab walked across the concrete as he sawed the wheel. Is this normal. I should also mention that this was before I took it for alignment.

Sorry for the long post but someone mentioned in another thread that I should post in this forum and I'm trying to cover all the details. Hopefully this is the preferred place for this topic. I attached a pic of my steering set up. Hopefully any info I left out can be gleaned from the pic.
Bad Wheel bearings can cause extreme vibration and even hopping when turning. Take off a wheel and check the integrity of them by grabbing the rotor and rapidly "steering" the vehicle with th rotor. Or turn them by hand and listen dor grinding or rough spots while rotating. Theyre 70$ and take me 30 minutes to replace both.
Old 05-20-2013, 06:55 AM
  #16640  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
That mount drops the bar 5/8" iirc. Still shouldn't need a drop pitman arm to get the correct angles.
I thought when you lifted these XJ's to that kind of height you needed to lower the track bar and drag link angles to eliminate binding and breaking of parts when flexing and wheeling.

I am still new at all this so maybe you don't need to do anything at 5.5 or 6 inches of lift? Seems like you would tear up some stuff if you did not lower those components though.

By the way, what is iirc?
Old 05-20-2013, 07:23 AM
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Iirc= if I remember correctly
Old 05-20-2013, 10:49 AM
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I'm off to do my research but just in case anybody knows off the top of their head, will a H&T SYE from a 99 NP231 fit on my 89 NP242. I thought the spline count is different but totally not sure. Thanks in advance.

Edit: So far all I can find is differences in the input splines.

Last edited by McCaffrey; 05-20-2013 at 10:57 AM.
Old 05-20-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
I'm off to do my research but just in case anybody knows off the top of their head, will a H&T SYE from a 99 NP231 fit on my 89 NP242. I thought the spline count is different but totally not sure. Thanks in advance.

Edit: So far all I can find is differences in the input splines.
I do know the 99 hack n tap won't have the housing seal your 89 needs
the red thing on the right
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:17 PM
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you can buy that seal separate also
Old 05-20-2013, 02:37 PM
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Thanks guys.

Oddly we were looking under mine and he was pointing to the tail housing and saying that I need to take that part off and replace it with the seal adapter from his kit. I'm wondering if it's his stock xfer case. In any case I'll just buy that part if I need to.
Old 05-20-2013, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
Thanks guys.

Oddly we were looking under mine and he was pointing to the tail housing and saying that I need to take that part off and replace it with the seal adapter from his kit. I'm wondering if it's his stock xfer case. In any case I'll just buy that part if I need to.
So your friend bought the new seal housing but didn't use it?
Old 05-20-2013, 03:38 PM
  #16647  
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Originally Posted by Kuro89
So your friend bought the new seal housing but didn't use it?
Not sure but I think he blew up his xfer case and replaced with an Atlas (I think) and different drive shaft. I'll know once I go over there and see. It's actually a friend of a friend so I don't want to bug him by calling with a bunch of questions. I'll just find out once I go there.
Old 05-20-2013, 05:58 PM
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I finished up with my RC coil spacer/shackle install this weekend. I would like to get a little more height from the rear; and inch at the most. I was looking into shackle relocation brackets (RC or HD Offroad) or switching out the RC shackles for adjustable rear shackles. The appeal to shackles is the adjustability to 2.5" but I don't know if that would be actual 2.5" or more like 1.25" after setting it on the ground. Thoughts?
Old 05-20-2013, 06:01 PM
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I know this has been answered time and time again but a quick response would be greatly appreciated.

rig:2000xj 4.0 np231 dana30/c8.25 RE 3.5" aal kit. 32x11.5 on 4.0 backspace 15"rims, fender trimed in front slightly trimed in back.

Installed 1" RE shackles to make up for sag. (warn rear bumper w/ spare)
replacing AAL with full RE3.5" leaf pack this week.

dont want it to look unlevel, rear to high with the new leafs +shackles, so I have 1.75" coil spacers on the way to add to the 3.5" RE coils (little sag from ARB front bumper).

I have no driveline vibes right now, and plan on doing an SYE in near future.
I have been planning on upgrading to ZJ tierod +steering stablizer.

question: Do I needparts to compesate for the added lift. right now unortunately most steering is all stock, is it wise to get a new track bar, pitman arm... brake lines anything like that after adding coil spacers probably totaling 4"-4.5" lift? I do have extended rear brake lines at the moment that came with RE3.5".

any input would be great, THANKS.
Old 05-20-2013, 06:06 PM
  #16650  
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Default Which is better

I am now in the market for an entry level lift kit. So far I have it narrowed down to the (Zone XJ 4.5 inch add a leaf )or the (Rough Country 4.5 inch add a leaf).

I was wondering which one is the better choice or the one that is more reliable/better built.

Any help or suggestions would be great, thanks


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