NewKindOfClown

I would say 33s reliably. 31s to be on the safe side if you're locked.

bheath

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Tom95YJ

I'm locked on 3.5" and 33's. no issues I can be pretty hard on my rig also.

bheath

yea. im on 33's and locked and haven't had any issues.

NewKindOfClown

D35 or C8.25? If the latter, 27 or 29 spline?

Mr_Grimm

Locked? I should have said that I am new to building offroad vehicles.

Being new I would like to put out there that I learn alot by reading so if anyone could point me in the direction of a good website with lots of information on suspension or a website that deals strictly with suspension or even books that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

JerrytheJeep

There's a lot of good information on pirate4x4. You should be vary wary if you feel you want to post anything there. There are a lot of serious hardcore guys on there who will try and rip you apart for not building your own suspension or for trying to wheel stock axles. Those kind of guys. But again, lots of good information because they're some of the best, and have lots of write ups and such.

If you're looking for good entry level kits, check out zone, iron rock off-road, Rubicon express, pro comp, and there's several others. Stay away from rough country's leaf springs, they're too short and they know it.

bheath

8.25 29 spline and hp d30

NewKindOfClown

Yeah, that's fine. Since nobody specified, I'm thinking worst case scenario with a LP30 and D35.

alex.litaker

i need to know how to take a sye out of one xj and put in another asap ill be leaving in a few hrs tp drive 3hrs yo get a 6.5 lift and sye for 200$ made by rough country idk if this will haelp 843-599-5181 this forum dosent go straight to me cell

McCaffrey

I just went through that. If you want to make life easy then make sure it's comparable model/years. i.e. same xfer case, same style xfer case. I just moved a drive shaft and SYE from a late model 231 to an early 242 and it was a nightmare. But yeah I got it cheap too.

Dirt Diver

So, Just dropped about 8 hundo on a 3.5" RE lift and RE monotube shocks for my 2000XJ. Bought a new can of PB blaster to start a daily regiment of spraying my current hardware/parts that will be removed (will start ripping them out when my order gets here). I think I have all the tools I'll need. I was told installation shouldn't be hard, but the ***** of the job will be removing all the old parts. Can anyone give me any pointers or hints on how to make the job a little easier? Also, with a 3.5" lift, 31" tires, am I going to need to add an SYE immediately or is that something I can put off for a couple months? Had one given to me from a friends part-out, but turned out it was damaged. Thanks in advance.

diesel.wrench

I found it easiest to just replace the "frame" side leaf bolts. After unbolting them they wouldn't come out of the bushings so I just cut them off... was super easy! I'm running a 3.5 lift and have the 1'' TC spacers and have no driveline vibrations.... I do not recommend using the trac bar relocating bracket I had very bad luck with mine.... I've learned that with lifting my jeep any wear part that wasn't completely shot soon became shot having all the extra stress put on it with the bigger tires...

Dirt Diver

I plan to buy an adjustable track bar soon as I can, and a new steering stabilizer. You don't happen to have a list of bolt sizes do you? I will probably just replace all the hardware I can. New, grade 8, rust free will make me feel a little better. If I had a blaster, I'd just blast the hardware, oil dip them, then reuse what I could, but that's not the case. Crap, I don't think my lift kit comes with a tcase drop kit...I'll have to double check. If not, I can probably just buy some cheap spacers right?

diesel.wrench

I got the leaf bolts from chystlerpartsdirect.com there a grade 10.9 bolt... idk what size they are... I used 1/4 20 bolts and nylock nuts and lock washers for the shocks use the wire trick for when the rear upper shock bolts break... my front lower ones broke too