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Old 09-25-2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
I might be cutting my front a little more. If I do I'll attempt a fold somewhat like the rear.
if you do, after cutting the slits, try using a small hand brake to bend the sheet metal back...i think its more precise and clean than hitting it with a sledge
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:37 PM
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alright guys now I am torn between mickey Thompson mtz, km2 , or duratracs, mixture of road sand mud and small rocks
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by War Eagle
if you do, after cutting the slits, try using a small hand brake to bend the sheet metal back...i think its more precise and clean than hitting it with a sledge
Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by War Eagle

if you do, after cutting the slits, try using a small hand brake to bend the sheet metal back...i think its more precise and clean than hitting it with a sledge
A crescent/adjustable wrench also works well.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:28 PM
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What is needed to put a 8.25 under my jeep like any special kit or anything?
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Acerwin
What is needed to put a 8.25 under my jeep like any special kit or anything?
A tool kit. It bolts right in.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep

A tool kit. It bolts right in.
Driveshaft length may be different.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Driveshaft length may be different.
8.25 and Dana 35 pinion lengths are like within an inch of each other iirc
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Parsnip

8.25 and Dana 35 pinion lengths are like within an inch of each other iirc
Thought so. Wasn't sure.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
We have about 10 people in our unofficial group and almost everybody runs 33x12.5 KM2 or Wranglers. One guy has 33x10.5 and there's no difference in what he can do compared to the rest.
That's what I want to run , 33x10 .50 on a 4 " BS 15x8 wheel on my 4" lift .
I will cut the bottom of the fenders and front bumper , Bump stops are in place 2 hockey pucks per side with stock upper snubber . I need to lower the rear stops an inch or two and whittle alittle in the rear .
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Thought so. Wasn't sure.
I only remember that because the 8.8 and 8.25 are like less ruN 1/4 inch different. And the 35 was shorter by less then an inch...makes sense if you think about the size of the ring gear vs pinion length, even though the two are probably not related haha
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Old 09-26-2013, 01:24 AM
  #18732  
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
I would assume your track bar is the issue considering you went the cheap and unsafe route of just moving the bottom bolt hole over. Your axle may be staying straight for a while until you turn more. I would bet that your axle is still not centered at 4.5". Get a real track bar from Iron Rock Offroad. Get the double sheer one. Its $200 and worth every penny.



X2 On the IRO Double Sheer.
ok cool thanks a bunch. so after i install the track bar and new tie rods, an alignment should be the last thing for it correct? i was looking into getting a new steering stabilizer as well.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:19 AM
  #18733  
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Originally Posted by Nick newbe

ok cool thanks a bunch. so after i install the track bar and new tie rods, an alignment should be the last thing for it correct? i was looking into getting a new steering stabilizer as well.
A new steering stabilizer isnt needed, but it wouldnt hurt.

You should do a 'driveway alignment' to get it close then have a shower get it 100% accurate.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by a_shirey

A new steering stabilizer isnt needed, but it wouldnt hurt.

You should do a 'driveway alignment' to get it close then have a shower get it 100% accurate.
...or a shop?
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:43 AM
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What size bump stops should I get for fitting 33's in a 3.5 inch lift?
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