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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CT
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I thought I posted my question but it didn't seem to work.
I just put on a 3" lift w/ new shocks. Broke my sway bar links while trying to loosen them. Good thing I got rid of them, not a good thing to have shatter on the highway. Do I need different ones due to the increased height?
Also, I didn't seem to need to move my brake lines. Plenty of space with the axle drooped & wheel turned. I may do it anyway just for piece of mind.
Now to replace all the tie rod ends & ball joints since I noticed all my seals for grease are cracked & leaking. Let's see what happens with the first drive tomorrow
I just put on a 3" lift w/ new shocks. Broke my sway bar links while trying to loosen them. Good thing I got rid of them, not a good thing to have shatter on the highway. Do I need different ones due to the increased height?
Also, I didn't seem to need to move my brake lines. Plenty of space with the axle drooped & wheel turned. I may do it anyway just for piece of mind.
Now to replace all the tie rod ends & ball joints since I noticed all my seals for grease are cracked & leaking. Let's see what happens with the first drive tomorrow
I know how you feel, I just put a 3.5in lift on my 96 xj and broke off one of the sway bar links also. I have the same question you have, with 3.5in lift can I use stock links and the sway bar still do it's job or will I have to get longer links?
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
you need longer links - the angle will be too far off and they'll break
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
So I have been reading this thread everyday since before I bought my jeep (about 4 months) and I think I have found my best option. http://www.rockridge4wd.com/product-...fslash-j22.htm
This is what I am looking at. From what I have gathered I need sway bar links and possible t-case drop kit or shims (whats better?). Am I also going to also need the steering stabilizer? Is the extra $30 for quick disconnects worth it? I have a '98 XJ Sport 4x4, its my DD that I do about 30mi. of High way and 10 city and will be getting in some SOFLo mud on the weekends. Thanks for all your help
edit: Nitro vs Hydro Shocks. What do I want? they are the same price
This is what I am looking at. From what I have gathered I need sway bar links and possible t-case drop kit or shims (whats better?). Am I also going to also need the steering stabilizer? Is the extra $30 for quick disconnects worth it? I have a '98 XJ Sport 4x4, its my DD that I do about 30mi. of High way and 10 city and will be getting in some SOFLo mud on the weekends. Thanks for all your help
edit: Nitro vs Hydro Shocks. What do I want? they are the same price
Last edited by Perrin Pockets; 11-19-2013 at 03:10 PM.
Junior Member
So I have been reading this thread everyday since before I bought my jeep (about 4 months) and I think I have found my best option. http://www.rockridge4wd.com/product-...fslash-j22.htm
This is what I am looking at. From what I have gathered I need sway bar links and possible t-case drop kit or shims (whats better?). Am I also going to also need the steering stabilizer? Is the extra $30 for quick disconnects worth it? I have a '98 XJ Sport 4x4, its my DD that I do about 30mi. of High way and 10 city and will be getting in some SOFLo mud on the weekends. Thanks for all your help
edit: Nitro vs Hydro Shocks. What do I want? they are the same price
This is what I am looking at. From what I have gathered I need sway bar links and possible t-case drop kit or shims (whats better?). Am I also going to also need the steering stabilizer? Is the extra $30 for quick disconnects worth it? I have a '98 XJ Sport 4x4, its my DD that I do about 30mi. of High way and 10 city and will be getting in some SOFLo mud on the weekends. Thanks for all your help
edit: Nitro vs Hydro Shocks. What do I want? they are the same price
Don't get the T-case drop. Order a SYE instead.
Either shock will do. Either shock that comes with that kit is still a a plain ole white body shock. You'll never know the difference with your mud wheelin.
I'd suggest a FSC on 52's.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
you will need a trackbar, longer sway links, and possibly the TC drop. You don't need the stabilizer if yours is still good. I'd go nitro shocks.
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Join Date: May 2013
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
So I have been reading this thread everyday since before I bought my jeep (about 4 months) and I think I have found my best option. http://www.rockridge4wd.com/product-...fslash-j22.htm
This is what I am looking at. From what I have gathered I need sway bar links and possible t-case drop kit or shims (whats better?). Am I also going to also need the steering stabilizer? Is the extra $30 for quick disconnects worth it? I have a '98 XJ Sport 4x4, its my DD that I do about 30mi. of High way and 10 city and will be getting in some SOFLo mud on the weekends. Thanks for all your help
edit: Nitro vs Hydro Shocks. What do I want? they are the same price
This is what I am looking at. From what I have gathered I need sway bar links and possible t-case drop kit or shims (whats better?). Am I also going to also need the steering stabilizer? Is the extra $30 for quick disconnects worth it? I have a '98 XJ Sport 4x4, its my DD that I do about 30mi. of High way and 10 city and will be getting in some SOFLo mud on the weekends. Thanks for all your help
edit: Nitro vs Hydro Shocks. What do I want? they are the same price
And plus one on the trackbar. Get an adjustable one - possibly a double shear unit - so you don't have to redrill the trackbar mount.
I did the above and I deeply regret it. Death wobble sucks major butt.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
depends - if you go with too tall of a ratio it'll hurt MPGs at highway speed. Too low of a ratio and you'll be struggling to keep the engine RPMs in the power/efficiency zone.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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You're not actually going to get better mileage with 31's than stock simply because it's takes more work to get to 65.
On paper, if you completely ignore 0-64mph, it would appear that you'd get better mileage.
I get a smidge less with the 31's over stock.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Meh, I use that chart loosely.
You're not actually going to get better mileage with 31's than stock simply because it's takes more work to get to 65.
On paper, if you completely ignore 0-64mph, it would appear that you'd get better mileage.
I get a smidge less with the 31's over stock.