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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
So all of these parts not included in my original price just put the 3" lift that I was already scraping by to get a hop skip and jump out of my price range. If I go for 2" packs for the rear and 2.5 coils up front will I still need all this? I'm really looking to do the most affordable BB 2-3" with as few pieces as possible. I need shocks, coils and springs so obviously an upgrade is the way to go, I mean that's the way it works right. I'm sagging 1.5-2" front and back so I'm more than happy with just 2" over stock with a price tag around $400 (or lower if possible) thanks again! Y'all are awesome!
Ok so I have an RE 3.5 inch lift and I just got these 33x10.5 km2s and they rub the bumper and the fender flare. They look awesome the way they are and I was just wondering if anybody knows how I can trim as little as possible and still keep this look. Sorry if that's a stupid question
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Location: Eaton Co
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
so I just ordered a full budget OME kit from rocky road on oct 29 and it's supposed to be here next week. It was held up because they were waiting for daystar poly bushings for the leaf springs. They suggested I just use new OEM BUSHINGS FOR THE OME leafs. are factory parts ok in these packs? Will they fit? Has anyone tried this before.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok any suggestions for mounting 35x12.5/15s on a 3.5" lift with stock steelies? Would wheel spacers help keep the tires from not scrubbing? I have done the cut and fold method to the fenders and quarters but will this be enough to keep the scrubbing to a minimal?
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
You're going to rub on a 7" wide wheel with 5.25" backspacing wrapped in a 12.5" wide tire.
You'll probably just hit your control arms while turning and possibly your leaf springs in the back. Bump stopping to limit rubbing during suspension travel.
You'll probably just hit your control arms while turning and possibly your leaf springs in the back. Bump stopping to limit rubbing during suspension travel.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Rear of the front fender if he has factory LCAs
Leaf springs
Everything else if he doesn't bumpstop
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
Ok so I have an RE 3.5 inch lift and I just got these 33x10.5 km2s and they rub the bumper and the fender flare. They look awesome the way they are and I was just wondering if anybody knows how I can trim as little as possible and still keep this look. Sorry if that's a stupid question
1.)cut the fender and the bumper
2.)go higher
3.)get really wide axles. (obviously not a good choice)
4.)get smaller tires (obviously another bad choice)
You are just going to have to mark where it rubs and start cutting. If you go offroad a lot, more than likely you will have to cut quite a bit to make up for the up travel or get a set of bumpstops to stop it.
Looks good! That being said, you have very little options. 1.)cut the fender and the bumper 2.)go higher 3.)get really wide axles. (obviously not a good choice) 4.)get smaller tires (obviously another bad choice) You are just going to have to mark where it rubs and start cutting. If you go offroad a lot, more than likely you will have to cut quite a bit to make up for the up travel or get a set of bumpstops to stop it.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So all of these parts not included in my original price just put the 3" lift that I was already scraping by to get a hop skip and jump out of my price range. If I go for 2" packs for the rear and 2.5 coils up front will I still need all this? I'm really looking to do the most affordable BB 2-3" with as few pieces as possible. I need shocks, coils and springs so obviously an upgrade is the way to go, I mean that's the way it works right. I'm sagging 1.5-2" front and back so I'm more than happy with just 2" over stock with a price tag around $400 (or lower if possible) thanks again! Y'all are awesome!
I know you can get rear leafs for around $200, springs for around $100 and you can get a pair of JK shocks off ebay for $50-75.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
This was my original idea. I am a nube though and was worried I may not get the right hard ware and everything nessassry, I figured if i paid a little more I would have piece of mind that I did not over look anything. But I think thanks to all the help I keep finding here I will keep trying to piece together. If i went with this option and planned for 2-2.5" of lift would I need track bar, or any of that other stuff or should I be ok with just springs, shocks and full packs?
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
This was my original idea. I am a nube though and was worried I may not get the right hard ware and everything nessassry, I figured if i paid a little more I would have piece of mind that I did not over look anything. But I think thanks to all the help I keep finding here I will keep trying to piece together. If i went with this option and planned for 2-2.5" of lift would I need track bar, or any of that other stuff or should I be ok with just springs, shocks and full packs?
Piecing together your own kit is the smartest decision imo. Bastard pack rear with XJ and S10 leafs can net you 3.5" if done right. Plenty of threads on this topic if you'll spend some decent time searching.
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Related to lift: I'm going to do the SYE myself.
I've read some instructions that recommend putting it in 2/RWD, disconnecting the driveshaft and chopping the output shaft with an angle grinder. That will give you a pretty straight cut as the rotational speed will help align the blade. Does that seem to make sense? It makes sense to me. Any help would be great. I don't want to drop the case if I don't need to as its currently 0c out right now
I've read some instructions that recommend putting it in 2/RWD, disconnecting the driveshaft and chopping the output shaft with an angle grinder. That will give you a pretty straight cut as the rotational speed will help align the blade. Does that seem to make sense? It makes sense to me. Any help would be great. I don't want to drop the case if I don't need to as its currently 0c out right now
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks good! That being said, you have very little options.
1.)cut the fender and the bumper
2.)go higher
3.)get really wide axles. (obviously not a good choice)
4.)get smaller tires (obviously another bad choice)
You are just going to have to mark where it rubs and start cutting. If you go offroad a lot, more than likely you will have to cut quite a bit to make up for the up travel or get a set of bumpstops to stop it.
1.)cut the fender and the bumper
2.)go higher
3.)get really wide axles. (obviously not a good choice)
4.)get smaller tires (obviously another bad choice)
You are just going to have to mark where it rubs and start cutting. If you go offroad a lot, more than likely you will have to cut quite a bit to make up for the up travel or get a set of bumpstops to stop it.