Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
All modified tech questions. If it modifies your XJ beyond stock parts ask it here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:
Old 09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Wheels and Tires
Print Wikipost

All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-02-2014, 01:28 AM
  #20266  
CF Veteran
 
Parsnip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Basslicks

Really? That sucks man. My 92 can light up the 235/75's on demand w/ aw4 & 3.55's. Well... one of them on pavement anyway... both of them in the dirt.
My 3.73s can light up the 35 bfg ta/kos with the ax 15
Old 01-02-2014, 02:10 AM
  #20267  
CF Veteran
 
XJmike0122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Eaton Co
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Basslicks
lol... everything we do on here is pointless to someone.
Touché
Old 01-02-2014, 03:21 AM
  #20268  
No, I don't lick fish.
 
Basslicks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 11,167
Received 21 Likes on 20 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Parsnip
My 3.73s can light up the 35 bfg ta/kos with the ax 15
Cheater - doesn't count when you wind the RPM's up to 4k and dump the clutch Hey where the crap have you been anyway?

Originally Posted by XJmike0122
Touché
Hey I like your sig, by the way. Very true statement that seems to be lost on some.
Old 01-02-2014, 04:01 AM
  #20269  
CF Veteran
 
XJmike0122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Eaton Co
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Basslicks
Hey I like your sig, by the way. Very true statement that seems to be lost on some.
Thanks. That has been my motto on this build. I'm far from rich so it does have its draw backs, but from experience it is worth it in the long run.
Old 01-02-2014, 05:52 AM
  #20270  
CF Veteran
 
sycoglitch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Default

Originally Posted by a_shirey
When an SYE is installed about how many miles can be driven without degree shims before doing damage to the rear axle?
Its almost the same as lifting and not doing a TC drop. Do the SYE and measure angles right away and order accordingly. I forget how much you drive but it should last for some miles providing you driving a jeep and not a race car
Old 01-02-2014, 12:54 PM
  #20271  
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
 
dukie564's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Aberdeen, MD
Posts: 15,197
Received 17 Likes on 13 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

^ x2 don't run the rear shaft until the axle is shimmed correctly. front wheel drive jeep it for a while if you need to
Old 01-02-2014, 12:59 PM
  #20272  
CF Veteran
 
Parsnip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Basslicks

Cheater - doesn't count when you wind the RPM's up to 4k and dump the clutch Hey where the crap have you been anyway?
Heheheh gotta love a little bit of burning rubber...and clutch....lol
Just been around, too broke for jeep stuffs
Old 01-02-2014, 01:15 PM
  #20273  
Junior Member
 
Bignicky420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 in-line 6
Default

so, i have been contemplating between a re 3.5" lift or the 4.5" lift, the 4.5 is a little pricier but only like an extra 200$ after i buy the track bar that the 3.5 does not include. should i just go with the 4.5? my only hold back is the sye, some say ill need it with either lift kit... if thats the case ill just go ahead and go bigger. but is it necessary do you think for the 3.5"? the parts guy says sye is usually for 4.5 or higher. but lots of guys on here say ill need it for 3.5 anyways? i want to do it right for sure either way. but i look at it like if i save the couple hundred on the lift going with the 3.5 and not have to get the sye then i can possibly still have enough to re gear for 33's rather than running them with the stock gears until i can save for the regear later. or just little 31's i guess is an option too... what ya'll think? my jeep is an 94 xj sport, auto aw4 trans with the np231 tc i believe, i have the 8.25 rear as well and a d30 on the front. any info is great thanks..
Old 01-02-2014, 01:29 PM
  #20274  
CF Veteran
 
Parsnip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Bignicky420
so, i have been contemplating between a re 3.5" lift or the 4.5" lift, the 4.5 is a little pricier but only like an extra 200$ after i buy the track bar that the 3.5 does not include. should i just go with the 4.5? my only hold back is the sye, some say ill need it with either lift kit... if thats the case ill just go ahead and go bigger. but is it necessary do you think for the 3.5"? the parts guy says sye is usually for 4.5 or higher. but lots of guys on here say ill need it for 3.5 anyways? i want to do it right for sure either way. but i look at it like if i save the couple hundred on the lift going with the 3.5 and not have to get the sye then i can possibly still have enough to re gear for 33's rather than running them with the stock gears until i can save for the regear later. or just little 31's i guess is an option too... what ya'll think? my jeep is an 94 xj sport, auto aw4 trans with the np231 tc i believe, i have the 8.25 rear as well and a d30 on the front. any info is great thanks..
At four and a half chances are....well it's a shot in the dark. honestly you can't tell until you have the lift installed. you won't know if you have driveline vibes until you get out and drive it with the lift. If you have the extra money to go ahead and get it it's never a bad idea. are you going to be putting degree shims under the rear axle? driveline vibes are created when the u joints are out of phase with each other and bind.
Old 01-02-2014, 01:33 PM
  #20275  
CF Veteran
 
tssguy123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Bignicky420
so, i have been contemplating between a re 3.5" lift or the 4.5" lift, the 4.5 is a little pricier but only like an extra 200$ after i buy the track bar that the 3.5 does not include. should i just go with the 4.5? my only hold back is the sye, some say ill need it with either lift kit... if thats the case ill just go ahead and go bigger. but is it necessary do you think for the 3.5"? the parts guy says sye is usually for 4.5 or higher. but lots of guys on here say ill need it for 3.5 anyways? i want to do it right for sure either way. but i look at it like if i save the couple hundred on the lift going with the 3.5 and not have to get the sye then i can possibly still have enough to re gear for 33's rather than running them with the stock gears until i can save for the regear later. or just little 31's i guess is an option too... what ya'll think? my jeep is an 94 xj sport, auto aw4 trans with the np231 tc i believe, i have the 8.25 rear as well and a d30 on the front. any info is great thanks..
Personally, I'd get a SYE at 3.5". You'll likely get vibes, and your only other option is a tcase drop, which I wouldn't do. $200 isn't going to get you a re-gear, from what I've heard it's closer to the $1000 range when you factor in labor.

Last edited by tssguy123; 01-02-2014 at 01:36 PM.
Old 01-02-2014, 01:34 PM
  #20276  
Moderator of Jeeps
 
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by tssguy123

Personally, I'd get a SYE at 3.5". You'll likely get vibes, and your only other option is a tcase drop, which I wouldn't do. $200 isn't going to get you a re-gear, from what I've heard it's closer to the $1000 range when you factor in labor.
Exactly. If you really want to do it right, get an SYE. It's an upgrade even if your Jeep doesn't require it.
Old 01-02-2014, 01:48 PM
  #20277  
Junior Member
 
Bignicky420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 in-line 6
Default

As far as the regear I have extra in budget for that if I can save some loot here and there. But spending on an sye and shaft it'll be pushing it with funds. I think ill just do the sye. Seems to be a concusses that it's best. Is that with the 3.5 in lift as well? And how do you feel about running 33's for a bit on my stock gearing? Also I know nothing of shims... Do I need them as well with sye and shaft? I don't want a t case drop. I hear its a dumb fix. I wanna start a build thread soon as I get going on this bad boy. I'm excited to finally have an off-road able machine again!
Old 01-02-2014, 02:09 PM
  #20278  
CF Veteran
 
tssguy123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Bignicky420
As far as the regear I have extra in budget for that if I can save some loot here and there. But spending on an sye and shaft it'll be pushing it with funds. I think ill just do the sye. Seems to be a concusses that it's best. Is that with the 3.5 in lift as well? And how do you feel about running 33's for a bit on my stock gearing? Also I know nothing of shims... Do I need them as well with sye and shaft? I don't want a t case drop. I hear its a dumb fix. I wanna start a build thread soon as I get going on this bad boy. I'm excited to finally have an off-road able machine again!
Regear can wait. You'll be gutless, but plenty of people have done it. You don't HAVE to buy a new shaft, a front shaft from the JY will work. Like I said, I would still do a SYE on a 3.5" lift, if for nothing more than being able to go higher in the future. There's no 100% sure chance that you'll NEED a SYE on 3.5" of lift, but again.. I WOULD.

From the RE website:
Note: Installing a SYE and CV driveshaft is recommended when lifting any vehicle 3.5” or higher.
Old 01-02-2014, 05:46 PM
  #20279  
Junior Member
 
Twinfin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Default

Ordered the 3" Full leaf spring Rough country lift the other day with extended brake lines for front and rear. Went back on today just to look and noticed a note that said "will fit 4-6 inch lift only" I have not called to see if that was adjustable (Not in time zone) Just curious if that would cause a problem.
Old 01-02-2014, 06:22 PM
  #20280  
CF Veteran
 
94XjSport94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Default

The note was regarding the brake lines? No, not a problem.


Quick Reply: All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:18 PM.