danimal

I know and appreciate that.


Thanks

MirageMobile

1

91XJ4WD

Looking to piece together a LA lift for my 91 XJ. I want a mild LCOG setup. (3" on 33's) Looking at Clayton and Rock Tek. Any opinions,input, or other options would be appreciated. Looking for good quality so I don't need to upgrade down the road.

JerrytheJeep

You can't really run long arms under 4". Short arms are fine at 3", and the tire size it's all based on how much you want to Tim your fenders. Check out the low cog sticky in mod tech

91XJ4WD

Ya. I am starting to realize that. I have checked out that LCOG write up. It's very informative. I got confused because he was saying you could do a 6.5 LA with a shorter spring. But not a 4.5. Kinda makes sense now. I'm prob gonna stick with 4.5 for now. I want minimal wheel to fender gap with as much droop as possible. The Rock Tek kit is a 3.5. Might go with that as well. Thx for the response.

chucktaylor77

Does anyone know about the iron rock lift kits? If there any good or not all input appreciated thanks

NewKindOfClown

Short arm lift kits are great. I'm a big fan. Long arm lift kits (Critical Path) are questionable, and they draw a lot of hate.

josh_edwards6

I've heard the bushings on the control arms on IRO long arm are complete crap

JerrytheJeep

Plan on at least 1-2" of uptravel for bumps

91XJ4WD

Yes. For sure.

Biggs

I am completely new to lifts/Cherokees in general but I have tried to do as much research as I could before I post so please tell me if I have this right. For I want to do it once and do it right! this will be a dd/ trail rig I want to do a 5.5 re la lift and run 32s maybe 33s "haven't completely decided yet". for me to do this I am going to have to get a front drive shaft out of an xj and a sye "to sketched out to do hack and tap myself". and need to re gear to a 4.56? I think I have it all down if I am missing anything/ suggestions please help me out and I appreciate you time! I am currently deployed and want to accumulate the parts while im here so I can throw it all togeather when I get home!

P.S excuse my punctuation and spelling.. I joined the military because I wasn't ever the greatest in school. haha

I think I messed up on the regearing part I think that was for 35s... so that would make me have to regear too a 4.10 for thats the next lowest to go?

Slim357

A lot of people read year to 456 for 33s. 4 10's or supposedly ideal for 33's but it really does not account for the added weight of the tire 456 in 488 in my opinion is perfect for 35

McCaffrey

My thoughts on "up/down travel" since I've heard here many times about which is better: From working as an engineer and hobby activities I've found when somebody calls out an extreme as the "best way" it always throws up red flags. i.e. mostly up-travel or mostly down-travel as better. Neither usually work. A balance almost always seems to be the answer. Anyway, just food for thought.

NewKindOfClown

For a LCOG rock crawler, you do want mostly down travel because it allows articulation while retaining a stable profile. It isn't that down travel is better; it's that down is the only available direction in a true LCOG build.

It has been proven very effective when properly configured, but LCOG is the new Long Arm in that everyone thinks it's the magic answer to solve their problems.

It has it's place just like any other build style, and it's very specialized. I wouldn't take a LCOG Jeep in deep mud just as I wouldn't take a 14" lifted dedicated mudder onto a rock course.

The purposes are on extreme ends of the spectrum, and so should be the build styles in those scenarios.

McCaffrey

I'm no expert in wheeling so I'll take your word for it.

Another thing I've observed with XJ is that most don't flex in the rear very well. I assume do to the coil/leaf spring setup. No idea if not flexing in the rear is good or bad or doesn't matter. I assume it's bad because most hardcore rigs go with coils in the rear. It seems to me many people spend way too much time focused on making the front flex which is understandable.