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Old 03-04-2014, 12:31 PM
  #20941  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

For a LCOG rock crawler, you do want mostly down travel because it allows articulation while retaining a stable profile. It isn't that down travel is better; it's that down is the only available direction in a true LCOG build.

It has been proven very effective when properly configured, but LCOG is the new Long Arm in that everyone thinks it's the magic answer to solve their problems.

It has it's place just like any other build style, and it's very specialized. I wouldn't take a LCOG Jeep in deep mud just as I wouldn't take a 14" lifted dedicated mudder onto a rock course.

The purposes are on extreme ends of the spectrum, and so should be the build styles in those scenarios.
Too many young jeepers right away want 6-7" of lift and this and that and the cheapest way. Ppl need to sit down and decide what kind of trail vehicle they want and build to suit that.
Old 03-04-2014, 12:38 PM
  #20942  
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Agreed. I'm far from young but new to XJs. I'm glad I couldn't buy an XJ for almost a year after I decided I wanted one. I joined a few forums and tried to educate myself in advance. I'm pretty happy with my moderate-lift initial build. The only thing I did and want to change right away is I should have went OTK when I did my 1-ton steering. Some of the parts I can re-use but not all.
Old 03-04-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
Agreed. I'm far from young but new to XJs. I'm glad I couldn't buy an XJ for almost a year after I decided I wanted one. I joined a few forums and tried to educate myself in advance. I'm pretty happy with my moderate-lift initial build. The only thing I did and want to change right away is I should have went OTK when I did my 1-ton steering. Some of the parts I can re-use but not all.
you can use *** if you just shorten the drag link, ringht? Maybe a new tube insert for the side you cut off? Oh yea... The track bar... Duh
Old 03-04-2014, 03:56 PM
  #20944  
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I have tapered inserts for my knuckles so I should be able to flip those but I think the issue is that I have the Serious 1-ton and the passenger side TRE is also where the drag link attaches and has a tapered hole. So when I flip it over the taper will be the wrong way. Yeah, looks like new trackbar too.

But yeah, I said this would be a trail rig but now it's starting to be somewhat hardcore and the tie rod got beat pretty bad recently.
Old 03-04-2014, 03:58 PM
  #20945  
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
Plan on at least 1-2" of uptravel for bumps
And 6 for jumps.
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Last edited by SteveMongr; 03-04-2014 at 04:13 PM. Reason: added picture
Old 03-04-2014, 04:34 PM
  #20946  
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And new ball joints. Not that I would know...
Old 03-04-2014, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
And new ball joints. Not that I would know...
:cough:hold my beer :cough: Mr. CPO
Old 03-04-2014, 06:02 PM
  #20948  
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And new *****.
Old 03-04-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
And new *****.
Nah mine were fine when I jumped mine last time lol
Old 03-04-2014, 08:27 PM
  #20950  
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Originally Posted by Slim357

Nah mine were fine when I jumped mine last time lol
Same here
Old 03-05-2014, 12:14 AM
  #20951  
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Originally Posted by Slim357
A lot of people read year to 456 for 33s. 4 10's or supposedly ideal for 33's but it really does not account for the added weight of the tire 456 in 488 in my opinion is perfect for 35
Cool I think im going to go with 33s. I really like how it looks and dont want to have to swap axles for 35s.. anyways did everything else sound rite?
Old 03-05-2014, 07:53 AM
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Thought into the use of the vehicle is paramount. Took some time for me. No young'in here either. Went with a 4.5 Zone kit with new LCA,full leafs, longer boomerang shackles, Drop pitman, RC control arm drop bracket kit, RC adjustable drop track bar kit. (Track bar kit cause I did not want to follow drilling a hole next to mount hole on frame to move mine over as specified in Zone kit feared fatigue cracks) and new OEM UCA's


Lastly full set factory 18 inch TK new rims 5 spokes with 2000 mile 255/70/18 mounted factory tires from my neighbor for 150 bucks complete. This car will only see the rare fire road and roads of Pennsylvania. Project I am building with my daughter for her first car to go to college with.


Soaking the car attachment bolts and mounting areas for 3 weeks now with PB Blaster Makes things much easier. Now we are ready to toss it all on.
Old 03-05-2014, 09:22 AM
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So I'm building a bastard pack currently, and was wondering is slip plate worth it? Or should I just paint the springs and put grease between them. (Slip plate is a friction reducing paint) anybody have experience with and without the slip plate?
Old 03-05-2014, 10:26 AM
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im looking at buying an iron rock offroad 4" short arm lift, and was wondering what everyones opinion on iron rock products is? for $513 shipped to my door its the best deal i could find
Old 03-05-2014, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelOH
So I'm building a bastard pack currently, and was wondering is slip plate worth it? Or should I just paint the springs and put grease between them. (Slip plate is a friction reducing paint) anybody have experience with and without the slip plate?
I think the anti-friction pads are the way to go. Along with dry graphite spray.
Without the pads each leaf is in full contact with the next, increasing friction.
I have found that paints including tractor paint does not hold up in-between the leafs. And can even gum up under the pressure and make it worse.
Someone on here greases all the leafs and wraps the whole pack in duct-tape, good concept just need a better choice wrap.

Originally Posted by Ranger4219
Went with a 4.5 Zone kit with Drop pitman, .
My experience is the drop pitman arm will cause 'bump-steer'. Try doing everything else including the home alignment and give it a test drive. Then try the drop pitman for comparison.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

Last edited by SteveMongr; 03-05-2014 at 11:23 AM.


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