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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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04-08-2014, 08:00 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
You need an adjustable trackbar at 4" along with LCAs. UCAs can be replaced at 4" for perfect measurements, but they aren't necessary. You will need extended sway bar links, with or without quick disconnects. Extended brake lines.
You're also beating the limitations of stock steering (around 5"), and there's a good chance you'll need an SYE.
You're also beating the limitations of stock steering (around 5"), and there's a good chance you'll need an SYE.
04-08-2014, 08:36 AM
Beach Bum
04-08-2014, 08:51 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
adjustable track bar
Planning on buying the rough country 3" series 2 lift along with 1.75" coil spacers and adjustable lift shackles. Big question is will I need the adjustable track bar or can I get away without it?
04-08-2014, 09:00 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Need:
Track bar
Shocks
LCAs
UCAs
Brake lines
SYE and driveshaft
Extended swaybar links
Also Suggest:
Steering upgrade
04-08-2014, 09:25 AM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
04-08-2014, 09:27 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
04-08-2014, 09:31 AM
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Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0
And x2 for the zone kit.
04-08-2014, 10:49 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah, your on the right track, but there's a couple things that come to mind:
-The LCA's should be replaced at that height, if not your ride quality will suffer drastically. As this is a DD this will be more significant than if it only saw trails.
-The sway bar will need longer links. Getting disconnectable links is a good way to go. JKS sells em for like 150, but you can home brew them for super cheap. If your playing I the sand, I don think you'll want excessive body roll at speed. Disco the links for low speed stuff.
-Dont go any higher!! Why? What will it help? Unless your mud racing anything over 4.5-5" of LONG ARM suspension is, in my opinion, wasted money. Also, now that we've talked about LA suspension, that will be where you end up if you wan to do this right. You can fit 32's all day long on that height. No need to lift your COG if your axles are still close the ground.
-Some other things that come to mind are extending brake lines and getting a SYE. At about the 4" mark is when most XJ's seem to see driveline vibes.
-The LCA's should be replaced at that height, if not your ride quality will suffer drastically. As this is a DD this will be more significant than if it only saw trails.
-The sway bar will need longer links. Getting disconnectable links is a good way to go. JKS sells em for like 150, but you can home brew them for super cheap. If your playing I the sand, I don think you'll want excessive body roll at speed. Disco the links for low speed stuff.
-Dont go any higher!! Why? What will it help? Unless your mud racing anything over 4.5-5" of LONG ARM suspension is, in my opinion, wasted money. Also, now that we've talked about LA suspension, that will be where you end up if you wan to do this right. You can fit 32's all day long on that height. No need to lift your COG if your axles are still close the ground.
-Some other things that come to mind are extending brake lines and getting a SYE. At about the 4" mark is when most XJ's seem to see driveline vibes.
Man & (everyone), I really appreciate that info. Most of what you (all) said, I knew. I just needed confirmation. Is the SYE really going to be a factor right off the bat though? I'm more than likely not going any higher, just because of what wheeling I'm going to do at the most. I do want have that option ie....(adjustable components). Sand, a little mudding, nothing aggressive. It will be my alternative DD, I also have a truck to drive. One thing that comes to mind is the drop Pittman arm? From what I understand. Normally everything, becomes a big issue around the 4 1/2 inch mark and up. Please educate me. Will I need this for a true 4 inch lift? By the way, I changed my order from the At's to the KM2's. More money, but I think for all purpose and especially looks, it's my best choice. Also, the side wall is supposed to be far superior than the AT's. Any other info is welcomed. Thanks again guy's.
04-08-2014, 11:39 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i have a 94 xj with a 242 t-case, i'm going up to about 5" of lift roughly, i bought a t-case drop already, anything else i will absolutely need to run this, i wont be doing any rock crawling or anything, my jeep is more of a mud toy than a crawler
04-08-2014, 11:51 AM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Does the 94 NP242 have the long output cone? If so and you decide to go with a CV/SYE drive shaft you can look forward to a nightmare.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Took off my steering stabilizer last night. Drove it on the freeway only about a mile. It's never had DW but after reading so much about it I'm ultra sensitive so I can't say for sure yet. Maybe it's the same and I'm just paranoid. Plus since most of the fluid had leaked out months ago it didn't have much resistance anyway.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Took off my steering stabilizer last night. Drove it on the freeway only about a mile. It's never had DW but after reading so much about it I'm ultra sensitive so I can't say for sure yet. Maybe it's the same and I'm just paranoid. Plus since most of the fluid had leaked out months ago it didn't have much resistance anyway.
Last edited by McCaffrey; 04-08-2014 at 11:54 AM.
04-08-2014, 01:03 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
04-08-2014, 01:03 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
No. It means you probably still need a CV/SYE but it will cause a nice headache. Here's my abomination. What you can't see is that it still leaked down the splines and out the center. I finally just welded the retaining ring in place. If I had it to do again I'd probably just replace it with a NP231 short-cone.
http://www.sonic.net/~mccaffre/image...ePioneer60.jpg
http://www.sonic.net/~mccaffre/image...ePioneer60.jpg
Last edited by McCaffrey; 04-08-2014 at 01:09 PM.
04-08-2014, 01:07 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
will the t-case drop work for now? until i can afford the sye?
will i need any front components? i had a 2.5" lift and now im adding 2.5" coils up front so
will i need any front components? i had a 2.5" lift and now im adding 2.5" coils up front so