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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
What people don't understand, a SYE isn't just for the vibrations. Correct me if im wrong but there's also the issue of the DS falling out from over stretching. Do a hack and tap if you wanna save money with a rebuilt front shaft and when you have money go full shaft SYE if needed
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
5" of lift was covered on the last few pages, but here:
You need:
-upper and lower control arms
-track bar
-sway bar links
-coils
-leafs
-shackles(probably relocation brackets)
-shocks
-extended brake lines
-recommended steering upgrade
-SYE and drive shaft
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Mass
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What people don't understand, a SYE isn't just for the vibrations. Correct me if im wrong but there's also the issue of the DS falling out from over stretching. Do a hack and tap if you wanna save money with a rebuilt front shaft and when you have money go full shaft SYE if needed
I don't experience vibes. I do, however, experience grinding. Added the t-case drop and solved 90% of that, but it's still there on occasion. Saving for new sye and ds.
And Glitch, that's pretty much the same thought I have on it. I won't take mine wheeling until I get the sye setup because I'm worried about dropping the ds.
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A correct length drive shaft is independent of a CV/SYE or not. If SYE you'll still have the slip yoke in the drive shaft and if it's too short can come apart too. You could jack it up, put stands under the frame and then drop the axle and see what happens.
Also there's no "full" SYE for a NP242. I think there was (or is) one but it's just a H&T that's already done for you.
Also there's no "full" SYE for a NP242. I think there was (or is) one but it's just a H&T that's already done for you.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
A correct length drive shaft is independent of a CV/SYE or not. If SYE you'll still have the slip yoke in the drive shaft and if it's too short can come apart too. You could jack it up, put stands under the frame and then drop the axle and see what happens.
Also there's no "full" SYE for a NP242. I think there was (or is) one but it's just a H&T that's already done for you.
Also there's no "full" SYE for a NP242. I think there was (or is) one but it's just a H&T that's already done for you.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Maine
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lol just brainstorming...Say you had driveshaft vibes with a lift...And you already had them and your u-joints are awful already...You could put off an sye for a while, right? Haha just a crazy thought, since my vibes don't bother me that much
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes you CAN put it off, but the disintegration period is usually pretty short. If it's squeaking or rumbling then it's probably gonna go soon.
Senior Member
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh I forgot...I keep hearing a crunch from my passenger side rear if I hit a bump while turning...That happens to be the side where the smallest helper leaf is broken and just held on by the spring clamp...Would this cause that noise? I know that the leaf and/or the broken exhaust hanger clank on low-speed bumps. (I'm just hoping the turning noise isn't the axle crunching the exhaust or something) Oh and yes, I know...broken leaf springs are bad...it's not the main leaf, and I plan on getting a job soon and buying either better rear leafs, or adding some in for a junkyard lift kind of thing, or getting lift springs. Either way I'm going to get rid of the broken clanky leaf ASAP.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd probably better put some money on the side for new u joints when I replace my springs then...It's been rumbling on hard acceleration for probably several thousand miles...Now I think of it, it could have been since I got the Jeep about 10,000 miles ago... guess I'm just lucky
Seasoned Member
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
After thinking on it, once I lifted mine with the 3.5" RE lift, as soon as I started letting off the gas around 40mph, I could feel and hear a grumbling/grinding. I added the tc drop and it almost eliminated this. I figured it would be totally eliminated after installing a sye/ds. However, timing being something that sucks for me, I have had several major unexpected expenses that killed the budget I had for the sye and ds. Does anyone know what that grumbling/grinding actually is and if I'm going to be facing another unexpected financial crisis anytime soon due to said issue?
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Maine
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Don't want to sound like too much of a beginner but which direction should shackles face under the weight of the xj? Should they face 45 degrees towards the front or rear? Thanks in advance for an answer.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Frederick, MD
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rear, so if you're behind it, they should be coming towards you.
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Helena, Al.
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
My 88 XJ is sitting at stock ride height with 235/75/15 MT's.. Looking to increase the rear height just a bit. Probably in the 1-1.5" range.
I see a RC 1.5-2" rear shackle kit that looks like it might work. What are the other options (good companies) that provide a similiar kit?
Also, if I went with a front coil spacer in the neighborhood of 1" would this require an alignment after installation? What are the thoughts on spacers vs replacement coils in this lift range (small)?
Likewise, with the 1.5" rear shackle and 1" coil spacer, would different shocks be required? I need new front shocks anyway but just bought new factory height rear shocks.
Thanks guys in advance!
I see a RC 1.5-2" rear shackle kit that looks like it might work. What are the other options (good companies) that provide a similiar kit?
Also, if I went with a front coil spacer in the neighborhood of 1" would this require an alignment after installation? What are the thoughts on spacers vs replacement coils in this lift range (small)?
Likewise, with the 1.5" rear shackle and 1" coil spacer, would different shocks be required? I need new front shocks anyway but just bought new factory height rear shocks.
Thanks guys in advance!
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Moundridge KS
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ive got spacers up front i think im going to trim them down a bit and cut down on how big i go in the back too, so ill be like 4.5" all around that should be enough to clear my 35s if i trim right?