Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Wheels and Tires
- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
Important information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: Wheels and Tires
All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 3,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I've got the Zone 3" kit, it's great but I needed a new track bar, lcas, extended sway bar links and brake lines. I'll also need to get shackle relocation brackets because the angle is horrible and rear riders like a dump truck.
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Now do you have one for tires and tire/lift combinations
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Personally I would rather not have to trim, but I think I will be doing a little just to get the look I would like. I don't plan on going anything bigger than 4.5" lift with 33s, but more likely I will stick with a 3" lift with 31s. The only thing about making plans is that they change
I have to wait till I start doing the rust repair on the fenders and quarters to know for sure. It could just turn out to be easier to cut the fenders than try to fix or replace them.
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: West Point, Va
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988 Pioneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 in line 6
WK LCA's
The LCAs you're talking about:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoWJcontrolarms.htm
They're the same length as XJ arms, so there's no point on a 3" lift. You can use stock arms, but a perfect configuration would have longer LCAs.
I agree with the first line, but he meant to ask about WJs. the year range he gave, though, is almost in line with the WK series.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoWJcontrolarms.htm
They're the same length as XJ arms, so there's no point on a 3" lift. You can use stock arms, but a perfect configuration would have longer LCAs.
I agree with the first line, but he meant to ask about WJs. the year range he gave, though, is almost in line with the WK series.
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Marshfield, Missouri
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Marshfield, Missouri
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
also getting alot of mixed info..I talked to some Rc guys and they suggest LCAs for a 3 inch, said a trac bar was not needed nor was front extended brake lines...
seems this stuff is really boils down to whos pockets are deepest, and opinions...
seems this stuff is really boils down to whos pockets are deepest, and opinions...
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: The 864
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L In-line 6
Rough country is usually not recommended around here and most people will never buy from them. I got the 3" RC lift with LCAs and for my purposes (mostly on road/in and out of hunting and fishing holes and hittin a power line every now and then) it has been everything I've needed. 2.0 shocks ride better than I did stock too. However you absolutely NEED a trac bar at 3 inches. My left front stuck out an inch and a half further than my right
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well it seems you have your mind set on the RC lift. I will ask were you are getting your prices from, because the RC 3" lift series II lists on their site for $610 while the Zone 3" lift lists for $511. Add a set of RC adjustable LCAs for $170 you would be looking at $681 for the Zone 3" with leaf springs, a very comparable price. I am not sure if RC would and what RC would charge for an upgrade to adjustable LCA, but if they did the prices would be as close to a dead match as I think they could.
Then you still would need sway bar links, yes it is my opinion that you need them, and the same goes for the break lines. Not having breaks when you need them is something you want to avoid if at all possible.
I am not telling what to buy, or what kit is better because I do not know, I am just going by what I have read here and on other forums. With that said pretty much every budget lift kit is frowned on, but we have to start somewhere don't we, and not everyone has an extra 3 or 4 grand burning a hole in their pockets. I know I don't and if I did I may be tempted to put the extra money someplace else
I too am going back and forth but between the RC and Zone AAL kits. I am looking at the AAL kits because the leaf spring in my XJ are fairly new and it actually sit 1" higher than stock. I am lucky though and have a dealer near by for both kits and the prices are really close to what is listed on their sites so I don't have to worry about add shipping cost to my build.
Then you still would need sway bar links, yes it is my opinion that you need them, and the same goes for the break lines. Not having breaks when you need them is something you want to avoid if at all possible.
I am not telling what to buy, or what kit is better because I do not know, I am just going by what I have read here and on other forums. With that said pretty much every budget lift kit is frowned on, but we have to start somewhere don't we, and not everyone has an extra 3 or 4 grand burning a hole in their pockets. I know I don't and if I did I may be tempted to put the extra money someplace else
I too am going back and forth but between the RC and Zone AAL kits. I am looking at the AAL kits because the leaf spring in my XJ are fairly new and it actually sit 1" higher than stock. I am lucky though and have a dealer near by for both kits and the prices are really close to what is listed on their sites so I don't have to worry about add shipping cost to my build.
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rough country is usually not recommended around here and most people will never buy from them. I got the 3" RC lift with LCAs and for my purposes (mostly on road/in and out of hunting and fishing holes and hittin a power line every now and then) it has been everything I've needed. 2.0 shocks ride better than I did stock too. However you absolutely NEED a trac bar at 3 inches. My left front stuck out an inch and a half further than my right
One other thing I forgot to mention, make sure that you Jeep is in perfect mechanical order and that everything is solid before you start modifying it. It would really suck to get all the parts on hand to do a lift and find out that you have a cracked frame or some other mechanical problem
Before i even start mine I am adding a set of RuffStuff frame stiffeners, new brakes front and rear, and what ever else I can find that I judge borderline. The last thing I want to happen is to get into some place that none of my friends or tow trucks can get to and break down
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
So there you go another $120+ to add to the budget
One other thing I forgot to mention, make sure that you Jeep is in perfect mechanical order and that everything is solid before you start modifying it. It would really suck to get all the parts on hand to do a lift and find out that you have a cracked frame or some other mechanical problem
Before i even start mine I am adding a set of RuffStuff frame stiffeners, new brakes front and rear, and what ever else I can find that I judge borderline. The last thing I want to happen is to get into some place that none of my friends or tow trucks can get to and break down
Are you going to dd your jeep as well? If you are you might reconsider frame stiffeners. In an accident, the body is meant to crumple, absorbing the kinetic energy of the impact. When you add frame stiffeners and the like, that kinetic energy is not absorbed, thereby increasing the shock of the impact to the passengers and other non attached objects inside your jeep.
At the same time, frame stiffeners are kind of important to the longevity of a wheeled jeep. I don't mean to put you off or talk down frame stiffeners, I just wanted to share something I have pondered for a while, seeing as I'll be dding my rig. Safety is kind of important you know?
Last edited by JerrytheJeep; 06-14-2014 at 10:15 AM.
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your budget should always include another savings account, and a slot on your list that says "other expenses"
Are you going to dd your jeep as well? If you are you might reconsider frame stiffeners. In an accident, the body is meant to crumple, absorbing the kinetic energy of the impact. When you add frame stiffeners and the like, that kinetic energy is not absorbed, thereby increasing the shock of the impact to the passengers and other non attached objects inside your jeep.
At the same time, frame stiffeners are kind of important to the longevity of a wheeled jeep. I don't mean to put you off or talk down frame stiffeners, I just wanted to share something I have pondered for a while, seeing as I'll be dding my rig. Safety is kind of important you know?
Are you going to dd your jeep as well? If you are you might reconsider frame stiffeners. In an accident, the body is meant to crumple, absorbing the kinetic energy of the impact. When you add frame stiffeners and the like, that kinetic energy is not absorbed, thereby increasing the shock of the impact to the passengers and other non attached objects inside your jeep.
At the same time, frame stiffeners are kind of important to the longevity of a wheeled jeep. I don't mean to put you off or talk down frame stiffeners, I just wanted to share something I have pondered for a while, seeing as I'll be dding my rig. Safety is kind of important you know?
All I need to do to it now is paint and the interior. Oh and new front wheel studs Changing the wheel studs on a FWD Stealth/3000GT is not a simple pound out the old draw in the new. You have to pull the knuckle, press it apart destroying the wheel bearing, then remove the ABS ring just so you can see the backs of the studs As you can see in that picture one stud is broken in the front, so to me that means replace all 20. I had the rears done in 45 minutes. When I found out I had to kill 2 perfectly good bearing to do the front ($80 each) I got mad and had to walk away for a bit and work on something else. That is when I went out and bought the XJ. Who ever thought it was a good idea to make it so you had to replace an $80 bearing to replace a $2 part was a moron
The frame stiffeners are part of a frame repair. I live in eastern Ontario Canada where they think salt is gods answer to snow, because of that I have a weak spot in my frame just behind the DS LCA. I am going to cut that out and patch it, then to come back up to Ontario standards I am adding the stiffeners. When I am finished I should be just above the stiffness the frame was out of the factory.
In the long run the XJ will be a winter DD/summer play toy, and the Stealth will be the summer DD and parked in storage for the winter.