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Old 08-04-2014, 01:55 PM
  #22171  
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Originally Posted by SC_digger11
15's or 17's are gonna be your best bet. 15's you can find almost any standard size up to 44's and 17's are easy to find used and not too awful expensive new plus you have the option of p-metrics or LT's (metric or standard) in larger sizes
Good to know. Im going to stick with 15's but last question i have is i found some rims i love. (im doing my jeep green and white) and im unsure of what size to get 5x7 5x8 or 5x10? What is this measurement anyways?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-wh...-310-5x4.5.htm
Old 08-04-2014, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Good to know. Im going to stick with 15's but last question i have is i found some rims i love. (im doing my jeep green and white) and im unsure of what size to get 5x7 5x8 or 5x10? What is this measurement anyways? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-wh...-310-5x4.5.htm
Go 15x8 with 3.75 or 4" back spacing
Old 08-04-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
Go 15x8 with 3.75 or 4" back spacing
ohty
Old 08-05-2014, 10:38 AM
  #22174  
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Originally Posted by JeepaholicNinja
.

I don't think it would affect that...it would still be compressing and decompression as normal...
Monotube shocks are valved for compression in one direction (higher number) and rebound (lower) in the opposite direction.
Old 08-05-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Monotube shocks are valved for compression in one direction (higher number) and rebound (lower) in the opposite direction.
Other than mounting hardware it doesn't mater what way the shock is mounted. The compression valve will resist the shock compressing and the rebound valve with resist it extending. An upside down shock still compresses the same way as an upright shock, so no difference.

I use to work in the bicycle industry and rebuilt a lot of forks and shock over that 10 years and the only benefits of inverting a shock is slightly lower center of gravity (so small it wouldn't be noticed on a XJ) and making sure the internals are always bathed in oil. Automotive shock internals are always bathed in oil so the inversion makes no difference.
Old 08-05-2014, 12:30 PM
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Can anyone off the top of their head give me a link to a lift kit that is truly made cheaper without the shocks?? I don't want these double tube shocks these kits come with but I don't see the price changing w/o shocks on any of these kits...really annoying
Old 08-05-2014, 12:54 PM
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Anybody with this track bar:



All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!-screenshot_2014-08-05-13-50-48.png

Running it on 2.5" of lift?

It says 2.5-5.5" of lift required but I'd he worried about the clearance with the diff cover at a lower lift height. It is cheaper than the JKS and the only other TB that says it will work with 2.5" lift. If I need a new TB I'd rather upgrade.

EDIT: okay well everywhere else I look at the RE1600 says 3.5" minimum so I guess that's out of the question

Last edited by DieselD; 08-05-2014 at 12:56 PM.
Old 08-06-2014, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Anybody with this track bar:



Attachment 250203

Running it on 2.5" of lift?

It says 2.5-5.5" of lift required but I'd he worried about the clearance with the diff cover at a lower lift height. It is cheaper than the JKS and the only other TB that says it will work with 2.5" lift. If I need a new TB I'd rather upgrade.

EDIT: okay well everywhere else I look at the RE1600 says 3.5" minimum so I guess that's out of the question
I definitely would recommend getting on. You can relocate the factory trac bar 3/4" to the center. And get by just fine. But I'd recommend the adjustable. Less of a headache and mor flex.
Old 08-06-2014, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by xjguy11

I definitely would recommend getting on. You can relocate the factory trac bar 3/4" to the center. And get by just fine. But I'd recommend the adjustable. Less of a headache and mor flex.
Definitely don't want to drill/relocate, A: I drive it everyday on the highway and that little shred of metal that's left makes me nervous and B: I ****ing hate drilling holes. Lol

A lot of people say that 3" of lift is where a TB is required but, when I had 3.5" lift, it was waaaaay off. So in my mind it's gonna be off enough at 2.5" to need an adjustable TB.

What sucks is at that height there isn't many options, basically JKS, RC or Rustys. RC and Rusty's as far as I can tell is pretty much the same TB. Both use tie rod ends, both seem to have bad reviews and I'd rather not have the TB snap on the highway. JKS is kind of expensive but its also only single shear. I could modify a stock bracket to make it double, or at least weld a washer on there to make the hole level and not beveled.

Dammit, why can't someone make a double shear TB setup for low lifts.
Old 08-06-2014, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Definitely don't want to drill/relocate, A: I drive it everyday on the highway and that little shred of metal that's left makes me nervous and B: I ****ing hate drilling holes. Lol

A lot of people say that 3" of lift is where a TB is required but, when I had 3.5" lift, it was waaaaay off. So in my mind it's gonna be off enough at 2.5" to need an adjustable TB.

What sucks is at that height there isn't many options, basically JKS, RC or Rustys. RC and Rusty's as far as I can tell is pretty much the same TB. Both use tie rod ends, both seem to have bad reviews and I'd rather not have the TB snap on the highway. JKS is kind of expensive but its also only single shear. I could modify a stock bracket to make it double, or at least weld a washer on there to make the hole level and not beveled.

Dammit, why can't someone make a double shear TB setup for low lifts.
I know know what you mean. By that. I relocated mine at first and it did great on the highway. I drive the interstate ever day about 500 miles a week and it was solid. I ran it like that with a RE 3.5 for about a year and a half. Just limited the flex alittle on the trails.
Old 08-06-2014, 09:15 AM
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I bought the rough country one. came with a bracket for it too.
Old 08-06-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by XXXJR
I bought the rough country one. came with a bracket for it too.
Yea that's for bigger lifts. The one for 1-3" uses a tie rod end.

Last edited by DieselD; 08-06-2014 at 12:01 PM.
Old 08-06-2014, 12:00 PM
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Gotcha. Mines a 4.5
Old 08-07-2014, 11:06 AM
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Out of sheer boredom I decided to go ahead and install my Spartan locker in the new carrier and install the new ring gear.

Everything went together fine except the little retainer pin you drive in to hold the center pin in. It went in all the way except right to the end then just quit. Mushroomed the end a little bit but filed around the edges to remove any burs.

Will it be okay like this? The pin made it all the way through the center pin and into the other side so it is not going anywhere. Just want to make sure I can leave it like this or do I need to get a Dremel tool to clean it up some. Hard to get in that little space.

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Old 08-07-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Definitely don't want to drill/relocate, A: I drive it everyday on the highway and that little shred of metal that's left makes me nervous and B: I ****ing hate drilling holes. Lol

A lot of people say that 3" of lift is where a TB is required but, when I had 3.5" lift, it was waaaaay off. So in my mind it's gonna be off enough at 2.5" to need an adjustable TB.

What sucks is at that height there isn't many options, basically JKS, RC or Rustys. RC and Rusty's as far as I can tell is pretty much the same TB. Both use tie rod ends, both seem to have bad reviews and I'd rather not have the TB snap on the highway. JKS is kind of expensive but its also only single shear. I could modify a stock bracket to make it double, or at least weld a washer on there to make the hole level and not beveled.

Dammit, why can't someone make a double shear TB setup for low lifts.
This may work for 3.5" of lift if you use some RE front coil springs. I have this track bar and it seems pretty good to me so far.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX


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