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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm the same way. I dread working on the XJ cause **** always goes wrong then I get pissed and start throwing tools ( which is why I've had to replace Sheetrock in my garage ) My YJ I love working on it. Plenty of room and everything goes smooth as silk
I have had mine apart so many times I think everything is completely anti seized. I am so used to grabbing the smoke wrench on customers jeeps its rare I break a bolt. But sometimes.........LOL
I quit throwing wrenches and having random acts of tantrums. I had one to those 6 n 1 screw drivers. Threw a tantrum and was jamming the screw driver several times into my wood bench. About the third time the 6 n 1 part came out of the handle and stuck in the wood. The Phillips end went clear through my palm as I continued my rage at the wood bench.. That hurt for quite a while.
I quit throwing wrenches and having random acts of tantrums. I had one to those 6 n 1 screw drivers. Threw a tantrum and was jamming the screw driver several times into my wood bench. About the third time the 6 n 1 part came out of the handle and stuck in the wood. The Phillips end went clear through my palm as I continued my rage at the wood bench.. That hurt for quite a while.
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lantana, Fl
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NoVA
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lift recommendations and Questions
Good evening and sorry for advance for the long post. I just bought my first Jeep a week ago and this is my first post on the forum. I picked up a 97 XJ 2 Door w/ 5spd, NP231, and 8.25 axle. I intend to put some lift on it and a set of 31's that my family has laying around (until they need to be replaced or I decide to go bigger). I have done some research, but am having a hell of a time coming to a price/driveability/wheelability conclusion.
I imagine this vehicle will be driven every other day and in bad weather. I also plan to take occasional trips out to GWNF, OBX, and an off road park I have heard about but have yet to visit (estimating 6-7 outings per year)
I know I want full leafs, coils, and shocks. From there, I am not so sure.
With that said, I have been considering the following lifts in escalating price points;
1.Zone or RC Series II 3" lifts
2.RE SF 3.5", OME springs/shocks, or RC X-series 4.5"
3.RE 4.5" or DPG OME Deluxe 2.5
4.RC LA 4.5" or DPG Ultimate 2.5-3.5
5.FT LA 3.5"
I know this is quite a variety, but those are the ones that caught my eye so far. I also know that RC receives a lot of disrespect, but I also hear that they have been improving in recent years whereas RE has gone down hill. Votes or other recommendations are welcome.
Now on to questions. I understand at 3.5 or above, that an SYE will probably be needed. Does SYE always require a new Drive Shaft? Would my combination be eligible for a front stock shaft from an auto? Would 3" possibly require an SYE, or is TC drop a good way to go? If I go with one of the lower lift OME kits, are chances good that I'll be GTG on 31's without trimming, TC drop or SYE? Also, I hear from some sources that LA's are better on road, then other sources say they are close to dangerous on road (think that was mainly referring to 3-link). Would you consider LA's for a vehicle that spends 80% off the time on road?
Thanks!
I imagine this vehicle will be driven every other day and in bad weather. I also plan to take occasional trips out to GWNF, OBX, and an off road park I have heard about but have yet to visit (estimating 6-7 outings per year)
I know I want full leafs, coils, and shocks. From there, I am not so sure.
With that said, I have been considering the following lifts in escalating price points;
1.Zone or RC Series II 3" lifts
2.RE SF 3.5", OME springs/shocks, or RC X-series 4.5"
3.RE 4.5" or DPG OME Deluxe 2.5
4.RC LA 4.5" or DPG Ultimate 2.5-3.5
5.FT LA 3.5"
I know this is quite a variety, but those are the ones that caught my eye so far. I also know that RC receives a lot of disrespect, but I also hear that they have been improving in recent years whereas RE has gone down hill. Votes or other recommendations are welcome.
Now on to questions. I understand at 3.5 or above, that an SYE will probably be needed. Does SYE always require a new Drive Shaft? Would my combination be eligible for a front stock shaft from an auto? Would 3" possibly require an SYE, or is TC drop a good way to go? If I go with one of the lower lift OME kits, are chances good that I'll be GTG on 31's without trimming, TC drop or SYE? Also, I hear from some sources that LA's are better on road, then other sources say they are close to dangerous on road (think that was mainly referring to 3-link). Would you consider LA's for a vehicle that spends 80% off the time on road?
Thanks!
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Good evening and sorry for advance for the long post. I just bought my first Jeep a week ago and this is my first post on the forum. I picked up a 97 XJ 2 Door w/ 5spd, NP231, and 8.25 axle. I intend to put some lift on it and a set of 31's that my family has laying around (until they need to be replaced or I decide to go bigger). I have done some research, but am having a hell of a time coming to a price/driveability/wheelability conclusion.
I imagine this vehicle will be driven every other day and in bad weather. I also plan to take occasional trips out to GWNF, OBX, and an off road park I have heard about but have yet to visit (estimating 6-7 outings per year)
I know I want full leafs, coils, and shocks. From there, I am not so sure.
With that said, I have been considering the following lifts in escalating price points;
1.Zone or RC Series II 3" lifts
2.RE SF 3.5", OME springs/shocks, or RC X-series 4.5"
3.RE 4.5" or DPG OME Deluxe 2.5
4.RC LA 4.5" or DPG Ultimate 2.5-3.5
5.FT LA 3.5"
I know this is quite a variety, but those are the ones that caught my eye so far. I also know that RC receives a lot of disrespect, but I also hear that they have been improving in recent years whereas RE has gone down hill. Votes or other recommendations are welcome.
Now on to questions. I understand at 3.5 or above, that an SYE will probably be needed. Does SYE always require a new Drive Shaft? Would my combination be eligible for a front stock shaft from an auto? Would 3" possibly require an SYE, or is TC drop a good way to go? If I go with one of the lower lift OME kits, are chances good that I'll be GTG on 31's without trimming, TC drop or SYE? Also, I hear from some sources that LA's are better on road, then other sources say they are close to dangerous on road (think that was mainly referring to 3-link). Would you consider LA's for a vehicle that spends 80% off the time on road?
Thanks!
I imagine this vehicle will be driven every other day and in bad weather. I also plan to take occasional trips out to GWNF, OBX, and an off road park I have heard about but have yet to visit (estimating 6-7 outings per year)
I know I want full leafs, coils, and shocks. From there, I am not so sure.
With that said, I have been considering the following lifts in escalating price points;
1.Zone or RC Series II 3" lifts
2.RE SF 3.5", OME springs/shocks, or RC X-series 4.5"
3.RE 4.5" or DPG OME Deluxe 2.5
4.RC LA 4.5" or DPG Ultimate 2.5-3.5
5.FT LA 3.5"
I know this is quite a variety, but those are the ones that caught my eye so far. I also know that RC receives a lot of disrespect, but I also hear that they have been improving in recent years whereas RE has gone down hill. Votes or other recommendations are welcome.
Now on to questions. I understand at 3.5 or above, that an SYE will probably be needed. Does SYE always require a new Drive Shaft? Would my combination be eligible for a front stock shaft from an auto? Would 3" possibly require an SYE, or is TC drop a good way to go? If I go with one of the lower lift OME kits, are chances good that I'll be GTG on 31's without trimming, TC drop or SYE? Also, I hear from some sources that LA's are better on road, then other sources say they are close to dangerous on road (think that was mainly referring to 3-link). Would you consider LA's for a vehicle that spends 80% off the time on road?
Thanks!
You won't beat the ride quality of an OME lift (from DPG). Zone is my favorite budget company due to the balance of price, quality, and service. I wouldn't touch Rough Country parts on the side of the road with a 10ft pole. Rubicon Express makes a good intermediate-level lift for a price that matches.
I would count on an SYE (and, yes, a new driveshaft), but it's possible you won't need one. I'm a little rusty, but I think a stock front shaft will work at 3". Wait for someone to confirm or disagree with that. I strongly advise against using TC drops. They just move the problem from the driveshaft to the motor mounts.
31s fit comfortably on a 3" lift, and that used to be the de facto standard for a new Jeeper or a cosmetic lift. People have been pushing 3" and 33s with trimming over the last two years because LCOG (Low Center of Gravity) rigs look aggressive and are currently the big trend.
Long arms are definitely an upgrade for comfort and for articulation, but they won't make much difference below 4.5" of lift.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
My girl wants to get a Cherokee so she can get into the Jeep game and learn to wheel with us. I'm debating between 3" or 4.5" and 31s or 33s. Anybody feel like giving input? She's a complete newb, but she didn't hesitate or flinch during our 3-day trip to Rausch Creek (even when I jumped my YJ 3+ feet in the air)
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
My girl wants to get a Cherokee so she can get into the Jeep game and learn to wheel with us. I'm debating between 3" or 4.5" and 31s or 33s. Anybody feel like giving input? She's a complete newb, but she didn't hesitate or flinch during our 3-day trip to Rausch Creek (even when I jumped my YJ 3+ feet in the air)
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NoVA
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Welcome to the Forum, and nice snag on that XJ. Those are good starting specs.
You won't beat the ride quality of an OME lift (from DPG). Zone is my favorite budget company due to the balance of price, quality, and service. I wouldn't touch Rough Country parts on the side of the road with a 10ft pole. Rubicon Express makes a good intermediate-level lift for a price that matches.
I would count on an SYE (and, yes, a new driveshaft), but it's possible you won't need one. I'm a little rusty, but I think a stock front shaft will work at 3". Wait for someone to confirm or disagree with that. I strongly advise against using TC drops. They just move the problem from the driveshaft to the motor mounts.
31s fit comfortably on a 3" lift, and that used to be the de facto standard for a new Jeeper or a cosmetic lift. People have been pushing 3" and 33s with trimming over the last two years because LCOG (Low Center of Gravity) rigs look aggressive and are currently the big trend.
Long arms are definitely an upgrade for comfort and for articulation, but they won't make much difference below 4.5" of lift.
You won't beat the ride quality of an OME lift (from DPG). Zone is my favorite budget company due to the balance of price, quality, and service. I wouldn't touch Rough Country parts on the side of the road with a 10ft pole. Rubicon Express makes a good intermediate-level lift for a price that matches.
I would count on an SYE (and, yes, a new driveshaft), but it's possible you won't need one. I'm a little rusty, but I think a stock front shaft will work at 3". Wait for someone to confirm or disagree with that. I strongly advise against using TC drops. They just move the problem from the driveshaft to the motor mounts.
31s fit comfortably on a 3" lift, and that used to be the de facto standard for a new Jeeper or a cosmetic lift. People have been pushing 3" and 33s with trimming over the last two years because LCOG (Low Center of Gravity) rigs look aggressive and are currently the big trend.
Long arms are definitely an upgrade for comfort and for articulation, but they won't make much difference below 4.5" of lift.
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
That's how I feel. It'll be a wheeler and inclement weather vehicle. She has a 2013 Dodge Journey as her DD. Budget will be limited, though, and I don't know if it's worth the extra money for the things she'll be doing. Oh well, it'll come down to how much she wants to spend
Zone is a good lift and nothing to feel bad about. It just isn't the *best* kit out there.
The steering stabilizer is really a comfort item. There are some issues it can cover up, but it isn't needed if your steering is set up properly and in good shape. I would personally throw a new one on because yours is likely original, and they're only around $40. That said, it isn't a requirement. Definitely don't "upgrade" to a dual stabilizer setup unless you like wasting money.
The track bar is a requirement. Some guys here will tell you it isn't needed at 3.5" of lift, but keeping the stock bar will affect steering and stability. In addition to that, it has XXX,XXX miles on it and could use a replacement. I (and many others) recommend the Iron Rock Offroad double shear trackbar. It's a quality product for a reasonable price. And they give a 5% discount to CF members (you're welcome )
Thanks for your input. Part of me wants to go cheap and get zone, while the other part says "buy once, cry once" and go all out on the Full Traction kit. I was in touch with a Zone vendor from this forum and he was trying to up sell me with a steering stabilizer and track bar (which brings the price up near the RE 3.5 kit w/o those parts). Are these options necessary or highly recommended?
The steering stabilizer is really a comfort item. There are some issues it can cover up, but it isn't needed if your steering is set up properly and in good shape. I would personally throw a new one on because yours is likely original, and they're only around $40. That said, it isn't a requirement. Definitely don't "upgrade" to a dual stabilizer setup unless you like wasting money.
The track bar is a requirement. Some guys here will tell you it isn't needed at 3.5" of lift, but keeping the stock bar will affect steering and stability. In addition to that, it has XXX,XXX miles on it and could use a replacement. I (and many others) recommend the Iron Rock Offroad double shear trackbar. It's a quality product for a reasonable price. And they give a 5% discount to CF members (you're welcome )
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The track bar is a requirement. Some guys here will tell you it isn't needed at 3.5" of lift, but keeping the stock bar will affect steering and stability. In addition to that, it has XXX,XXX miles on it and could use a replacement. I (and many others) recommend the Iron Rock Offroad double shear trackbar. It's a quality product for a reasonable price. And they give a 5% discount to CF members (you're welcome )
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So if you guys were putting together a 3" on 31" Daily Driver, what would be your suspension of choice, regardless of kit vs collection of parts or cost (within reason).
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6