Chuck82

^ True. Just ask me, I went with RC leafs and an Extended shackle (kinda what you did) and my jeep in the rear rides like S*** my shackle angle is vertical and my rear flexes like crap I'm thinking about getting 6.5 coils and 5.5 RE leafs.

salad

yoink

It's not too late! (if you have full-length leaves) Shackle relocation boxes will fix things

FruitSnacks

You didn't already have that one saved?! I have that one, and its even on my phone lol

JackedUpJeep

Sorry if this question has already been answered on here, but i have been researching for hours and havent come up with an answer. So, i plan on lifting my jeep 4.5" in the front and 3" in the back. I am getting rear leafs from an s10 and have 4.5" coil springs on the way. I was wondering what else i will need? This is not a rock crawler by any means, this is my DD.

salad

Go one page back and look at the chart, it has the answers.

Also you'll need to significantly re-aim your headlights to compensate for your mis-matched lift. Why only 3" in the rear?

sycoglitch

There. My contribution for the night.

NewKindOfClown

Thanks, fellas. I love the positive feedback on that chart

JackedUpJeep

Alright thanks, i've read many pages then decided to skip the to the last. The only reason i am going with 4.5" is to clear 33s, i would like to go with 3" but i do not want to cut fenders.

salad

Bushwhacker Flat Flares are pretty slick. Certainly doesn't look like the usual hack job, haha

Basslicks

Yeah just to shed a little light on the "WHY" that might help it in your mind. When you have the front jacked up higher than the rear, you're changing the caster of the front axle to being more parallel to the ground. This is why you're getting the death wobble. If you had a front end with brand new joints and bushings, you probably wouldn't experience it, but the jeep would probably wander more. The caster angle of the front axle combined with the alignment of the front tires helps it "track" in a straight line (camber is pre-determined by ball joints, so unless one of yours is bad, that angle is set)

Basically, the diff cover on your front axle needs to be slightly facing the ground to indicate that the angle is correct.... but even if you just shimmed it to correct that angle, you'd run into other problems because then it would throw off your pinion angle and give you driveline vibrations.

Just do what was suggested and throw the stock springs back in there until you have the rest of the lift. You'll be much more satisfied when you have the entire lift completed. You may as well also want to go ahead and start working on replacing your joints and bushings in the front end to pre-empt that death wobble.

Basslicks

I completely understand your hesitation about cutting fenders. I was the same way for about 3 years of ownership with my Jeep. Honestly though, if you take your time and do it right, you can cut your fenders to the last lip and it won't look like a trashy hack job.

This is what mine looked like just before I touched up the paint on the one, but you get the idea. Much better than having to drop a few hundred on flares so that you can clear more tires.

SG Mason

What all is involved in doing a SYE, not hack and tap? Also what other parts will I need besides a SYE kit. I have a 3" lift and was getting some acceleration vibrations and an ugly growling noise on deceleration. I dropped the TC 1" last night to see if it was the cause and most of the vibs are gone and there is no more noise on deceleration.

I don't want to keep my homemade TC drop on longer than I have to and would like to start budgeting and collecting parts to do the SYE in the spring after I pull my other car out of storage.

salad

A "real" SYE replaces the main shaft, so you've got to blow the case open. My Rugged Ridge kit included just the new tail cap, shaft, yoke, drive for the speedo, and a seal and bearing for the tail cap & shaft. I elected to replace all the other seals, bearings, and shift fork pads, too. There aren't that many parts inside these things, lol. Chain should be replaced if it's stretched, mine wasn't. Oil pump pickup/strainer sometimes gets destroyed on removal as it's a giant plastic tube with a plastic screen. No idea on what the cost of that thing is. If it's not damaged some non-corrosive brake cleaner to blast the crud out is good enough.

SG Mason

That is why I am waiting till spring to do it, so I have my other car to drive Wont i need a new rear drive shaft too or do I just go to the JY and grab a front drive shaft and use that

kcdt58

How long did it take you to install the SYE along with all seals? Also, any typical issues or roadblocks? I've never torn into a transfer case.

I installed a poly trans mount that is about an inch shorter than the stock trans mount and I'm using that as a "TC drop" until this spring when I plan to do the SYE.