09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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01-23-2015, 08:29 AM
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Tell me if you guys think this is a good deal? http://www.thejeephut.com/1984-01-xj...bicon-express/ I'll finally be getting rid of my blocks in the rear.
01-23-2015, 09:18 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Tell me if you guys think this is a good deal? http://www.thejeephut.com/1984-01-xj...bicon-express/ I'll finally be getting rid of my blocks in the rear.
01-23-2015, 09:30 AM
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oh hell I thought it was for the pair lol. But yeah $100 isn't to bad for one. And I've read that you get about 5" of lift out of these spring packs. So Id need extended brake lines and Id have to do something About my drive shaft correct?
Last edited by loganmccool; 01-23-2015 at 09:37 AM.
01-23-2015, 10:41 AM
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Transfer Case drop and impact on cross member mounts
Ok guys, new to the forum, so apologies in advance for any miss-steps. I did do a search on this, but have not see any thoughts.
So, '87 XJ mostly driver but some off-road with 3" Skyjacker lift (and other mods not relevant to the question).
To reduce vibration, it looks like the ~ 1 1/2 " drop of the Tcase is about right. But, securing the crossmember back in place with new longer bolts requires a good bit of force to get the bolts to line up on the std rail holes. This makes sense in that if the engine mounts are essentially fixed, dropping the Tcase makes the vertical alignment of the cross member mounting holes 'creep' forward slightly ... the more the drop, the more the creep.
I think I have an approach to take the shearing strain off the transmission mounts / engine mounts resulting from 'forcing' the alignment, but need some experienced opinions.
Plan is to bolt a piece of 1 1/4" sq stock steel to the std crossmember location(s) with stock bolts / holes through the top of the sq stock or just weld to the rail. Then drill a new set of holes on the bottom of the sq stock slightly forward of the crossmember to rail stock holes. This should let the crossmember just 'swing' into place on to the new holes on the bottom of the sq stock (bolt/spacer(s)/nut) when I jack it back in place without having to really force the alignment.
Two questions (1) does this make sense, (2) is there any down side of a slightly new, slightly forward location of the crossmember relative to original location?
Thanks
So, '87 XJ mostly driver but some off-road with 3" Skyjacker lift (and other mods not relevant to the question).
To reduce vibration, it looks like the ~ 1 1/2 " drop of the Tcase is about right. But, securing the crossmember back in place with new longer bolts requires a good bit of force to get the bolts to line up on the std rail holes. This makes sense in that if the engine mounts are essentially fixed, dropping the Tcase makes the vertical alignment of the cross member mounting holes 'creep' forward slightly ... the more the drop, the more the creep.
I think I have an approach to take the shearing strain off the transmission mounts / engine mounts resulting from 'forcing' the alignment, but need some experienced opinions.
Plan is to bolt a piece of 1 1/4" sq stock steel to the std crossmember location(s) with stock bolts / holes through the top of the sq stock or just weld to the rail. Then drill a new set of holes on the bottom of the sq stock slightly forward of the crossmember to rail stock holes. This should let the crossmember just 'swing' into place on to the new holes on the bottom of the sq stock (bolt/spacer(s)/nut) when I jack it back in place without having to really force the alignment.
Two questions (1) does this make sense, (2) is there any down side of a slightly new, slightly forward location of the crossmember relative to original location?
Thanks
01-23-2015, 11:56 AM
Tell me if you guys think this is a good deal? http://www.thejeephut.com/1984-01-xj...bicon-express/ I'll finally be getting rid of my blocks in the rear.
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...-XJ-3.5-RE1463
01-23-2015, 12:03 PM
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01-23-2015, 01:17 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
01-23-2015, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok guys, new to the forum, so apologies in advance for any miss-steps. I did do a search on this, but have not see any thoughts.
So, '87 XJ mostly driver but some off-road with 3" Skyjacker lift (and other mods not relevant to the question).
To reduce vibration, it looks like the ~ 1 1/2 " drop of the Tcase is about right. But, securing the crossmember back in place with new longer bolts requires a good bit of force to get the bolts to line up on the std rail holes. This makes sense in that if the engine mounts are essentially fixed, dropping the Tcase makes the vertical alignment of the cross member mounting holes 'creep' forward slightly ... the more the drop, the more the creep.
I think I have an approach to take the shearing strain off the transmission mounts / engine mounts resulting from 'forcing' the alignment, but need some experienced opinions.
Plan is to bolt a piece of 1 1/4" sq stock steel to the std crossmember location(s) with stock bolts / holes through the top of the sq stock or just weld to the rail. Then drill a new set of holes on the bottom of the sq stock slightly forward of the crossmember to rail stock holes. This should let the crossmember just 'swing' into place on to the new holes on the bottom of the sq stock (bolt/spacer(s)/nut) when I jack it back in place without having to really force the alignment.
Two questions (1) does this make sense, (2) is there any down side of a slightly new, slightly forward location of the crossmember relative to original location?
Thanks
So, '87 XJ mostly driver but some off-road with 3" Skyjacker lift (and other mods not relevant to the question).
To reduce vibration, it looks like the ~ 1 1/2 " drop of the Tcase is about right. But, securing the crossmember back in place with new longer bolts requires a good bit of force to get the bolts to line up on the std rail holes. This makes sense in that if the engine mounts are essentially fixed, dropping the Tcase makes the vertical alignment of the cross member mounting holes 'creep' forward slightly ... the more the drop, the more the creep.
I think I have an approach to take the shearing strain off the transmission mounts / engine mounts resulting from 'forcing' the alignment, but need some experienced opinions.
Plan is to bolt a piece of 1 1/4" sq stock steel to the std crossmember location(s) with stock bolts / holes through the top of the sq stock or just weld to the rail. Then drill a new set of holes on the bottom of the sq stock slightly forward of the crossmember to rail stock holes. This should let the crossmember just 'swing' into place on to the new holes on the bottom of the sq stock (bolt/spacer(s)/nut) when I jack it back in place without having to really force the alignment.
Two questions (1) does this make sense, (2) is there any down side of a slightly new, slightly forward location of the crossmember relative to original location?
Thanks
Save yourself the trouble and buy a SYE.
01-23-2015, 02:41 PM
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
yes, was hoping to avoid since it all seems to be settling nicely in terms of ride. Wouldn't you still have the issue though since your still dropping the TC and therefore changing the support / mount point?