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Here ya go. Use this is a check list/ guide to help narrow down thw issues. Honestly at 6.5" you really need long arms or at least control arm drop brackets. A properly set up lift rides fine at highway speeds. I have between 5.5 and 6" of lift and can cruise the interstate at 80mph with two fingers on the wheel and no issues or butt pucker.
Honestly at 6.5" you really need long arms or at least control arm drop brackets.[/URL]
I agree on the long arm, just got it yesterday so ill probably start looking to some kits soon, I'm going to measure my axle today as well, because i just learned that sometimes lifting it will make it off center, so if thats the case, hello to a new adjustable track bar too..
I just purchased a 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ with the 4.0, it currently has a rough country 6.5" lift on, with 32"x11.5 tires, and the thing is just plain sketchy at 70mph.
Whenever i hit a bump, the whole thing wants to travel any which way, this is NOT death wobble, just a matter of moving when hitting a bump. I know lifted jeeps aren't the most comfortable at highway speeds, but this thing seems insane. Since i dont know much about jeeps (only got it yesterday), i was wondering a few questions...
- What should i look at replacing?
- What are some things that wear out faster when lifted?
- Should there be shocks inside my coils?
* See image, you can kind of see how i have a shock on the outside, but theres only the top half of a shock on the inside, assuming because the guy liked the front to flex, and had quick disconnects for stabilizer bar*
- What may be some good upgrades to help the ride quality?
First things I would consider:
-You want long arms at that height.
-Look into Shackle Relocation Brackets for the rear.
-Disconnect at least one shock in the front and one in the rear, and check their extended and compressed lengths to ensure they're actually the right length for your lift.
-Check the track bar, like you said.
-Look into crossover steering.
-Check the torque on the rear shackle bolts. If overtorqued, they won't rotate freely.
Doing a 6.5" lift correctly on an XJ is pretty expensive, and I guarantee anybody who buys a Rough Country lift is cutting corners to save pennies.
Your cheapest/easiest route might be to install a better quality lift kit with a slightly lower height.
First things I would consider:
-You want long arms at that height.
-Look into Shackle Relocation Brackets for the rear.
-Disconnect at least one shock in the front and one in the rear, and check their extended and compressed lengths to ensure they're actually the right length for your lift.
-Check the track bar, like you said.
-Look into crossover steering.
-Check the torque on the rear shackle bolts. If overtorqued, they won't rotate freely.
Doing a 6.5" lift correctly on an XJ is pretty expensive, and I guarantee anybody who buys a Rough Country lift is cutting corners to save pennies.
Your cheapest/easiest route might be to install a better quality lift kit with a slightly lower height.
This is pretty solid advice here.
I'll also like to add, research, research, research. If you're mot familiar with XJ suspension system. Read ul and gain some free knowledge. It'll make this experience so much easier for you.
I just purchased a 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ with the 4.0, it currently has a rough country 6.5" lift on, with 32"x11.5 tires, and the thing is just plain sketchy at 70mph. Whenever i hit a bump, the whole thing wants to travel any which way, this is NOT death wobble, just a matter of moving when hitting a bump. I know lifted jeeps aren't the most comfortable at highway speeds, but this thing seems insane. Since i dont know much about jeeps (only got it yesterday), i was wondering a few questions... - What should i look at replacing? - What are some things that wear out faster when lifted? - Should there be shocks inside my coils? * See image, you can kind of see how i have a shock on the outside, but theres only the top half of a shock on the inside, assuming because the guy liked the front to flex, and had quick disconnects for stabilizer bar* - What may be some good upgrades to help the ride quality?
I don't see your front sway bar. Having that is night and day on the road
I just purchased a 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ with the 4.0, it currently has a rough country 6.5" lift on, with 32"x11.5 tires, and the thing is just plain sketchy at 70mph.
Whenever i hit a bump, the whole thing wants to travel any which way, this is NOT death wobble, just a matter of moving when hitting a bump. I know lifted jeeps aren't the most comfortable at highway speeds, but this thing seems insane. Since i dont know much about jeeps (only got it yesterday), i was wondering a few questions...
- What should i look at replacing?
- What are some things that wear out faster when lifted?
- Should there be shocks inside my coils?
* See image, you can kind of see how i have a shock on the outside, but theres only the top half of a shock on the inside, assuming because the guy liked the front to flex, and had quick disconnects for stabilizer bar*
- What may be some good upgrades to help the ride quality?
Are you gonna fix the mangled up hood and the marker lights?????? Good chance previous owner beat up that jeep. Make sure you inspect all fluids and a good thrice over everything.
- Should there be shocks inside my coils?
* See image, you can kind of see how i have a shock on the outside, but theres only the top half of a shock on the inside, assuming because the guy liked the front to flex, and had quick disconnects for stabilizer bar*
In addition to my reply earlier this morning, I want to touch on this.
You're thinking of coilovers, named so because they are a "coil over shock" design. They're pricey, and they require quite a bit of technical knowledge to select the right ones and install them correctly. I don't mean to be rude, but coilovers are way beyond your current knowledge. Don't even think about them.
You have coil springs up front and leaf springs in the back.
You have one shock at each corner, next to your springs.
You have bumpstops inside your coil springs, which are the "half shocks" you're asking about.
You should also have bumpstops above your leaf springs, and they are wedge shaped.
Bumpstops do three things:
They limit your axle's uptravel so your tires don't hit the body, and they provide a cushion if your axles do travel that far. Hitting the rubber/poly bumpstop is much more forgiving than hitting the metal body.
Furthermore, a properly engineered suspension system will use the bumpstops as fulcrums to turn the axles into levers. When one side reaches its limit of uptravel, it pivots the axle on the bumpstop and forces the opposite side further down. This provides more traction to each tire.
Probably a stupid question, but I was looking for an answer elsewhere and couldn't find it. Can IRO's adjustable track bar be used without the double shear bracket? Or is it just that much better to add the bracket that no one goes without it? I don't wheel hard, just looking for a good adjustable track bar.
Probably a stupid question, but I was looking for an answer elsewhere and couldn't find it. Can IRO's adjustable track bar be used without the double shear bracket? Or is it just that much better to add the bracket that no one goes without it? I don't wheel hard, just looking for a good adjustable track bar.
I always recommend the double shear, but I believe they do sell a single shear. If they don't, check out Rubicon Express
Probably a stupid question, but I was looking for an answer elsewhere and couldn't find it. Can IRO's adjustable track bar be used without the double shear bracket? Or is it just that much better to add the bracket that no one goes without it? I don't wheel hard, just looking for a good adjustable track bar.
I always recommend the double shear, but I believe they do sell a single shear. If they don't, check out Rubicon Express
IRO dose carry a single shear adjustable, but for like 50 bucks more the double shear with bracket can be had. IMO you'd be crazy to cheap out on that unless you're desperate and have no cash.
I have a 3" lift. I heard good things about IRO and had a chance at one for a decent price. I wasn't planning on ordering direct from them, if that was the case I'd probably get the double shear because it is better, or look elsewhere.
As said I don't wheel hard, I just figured that an upgrade from stock couldn't hurt, especially to help center the axle. I'm not drilling a new hole in the passenger side mounting location. I'm frugal, but not that cheap ha
I put a 3" zone lift kit on my 98 xj over a year ago, ive had to drop the Tcase, shim the lower control arms, adj track bar, and quick release sway bar ext. Ive gotten the wobble to go away but then every few months it comes back. I decided to try to change the steering stabilizer shock, but was not able to get the old one off and ended up sawing and trying to drill out the old pressed bolt to no avail (now planing to replace drag link, suggestions?). After driving a few days with no stabilizer i got death wobble very bad and sheered the threaded bolt off the TRE on frame side of track bar. Now everything has gone very bad. I replaced the TRE but still no stabilizer. Can anyone confirm if the angle of my pitman arm and front sway bar look right? I feel thats where my problem is now.
Are my links to long?
Ive read some of these components should be parallel, i dont see any parallel bars. Would a drop pitman arm be required at 3" of lift?
Closer look at the pitman arm, is the steering box supposed to be at that angle?
Ultimately my question is, will shorter sway bar links and/or replacing my drag link and tie rod (maybe upgrade to V8) get me closer to a safe drive on the highway? Wobble appears at 55 and again 73ish, been way to nervous to get back on the highway
Thanks everyone!
Edit:: Just as an added note I measured the links from eye center to eye center and they are as short as they go at 8.5"
Last edited by Perrin Pockets; 10-15-2015 at 06:24 PM.
Reason: Add note
Is the axle-side track bar bolt being held securely, or is the hole wallowed out? That's the most common cause of death wobble on the Quadra-Link suspension system.
Another free check is to rotate your tires. An unbalanced tire can cause DW in certain circumstances
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
