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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
No, I don't lick fish.
lowering a 5.5" lift
Friends, So I bought a 2000 XJ with a 5.5 " suspension list, and the following extra features: Rusty's HD front coil springs with custom 6061- aluminum 1.5 " blocks. S10 rear leaf spring swap with 1 inch aluminum blocks and 6 degree wedges custom adjustable control arms with Rubicon Express builder bushings Rusty's Hydro shocks Rubicon Express Hack -N - Tap slip yoke eliminator. Rebuilt rear shaft with Spicer CV joint. Dual Rusty's steering stabilizers. TJ 15"x 8" aluminum wheels 35x12.50 R15 BFG ALL TERRAIN K/O TIRES Full size spare tire with matching wheel B&M transmission cooler stainless rear break hose Extended front sway bar disconnects Rusty's cut out flare fenders I recently hurt my knee and now it's too hard to go in and out of the jeep. I am also only 5'4". any suggestion about what to do to lower this thing, down to maybe a 2 - 3 inch lift would be greatly appreciated. If I just got smaller tires would the height still be appropriate. Also would the suspension be messed up with wrong angles, etc. Thanks for any advice you can offer! Robin
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Friends, So I bought a 2000 XJ with a 5.5 " suspension list, and the following extra features: Rusty's HD front coil springs with custom 6061- aluminum 1.5 " blocks. S10 rear leaf spring swap with 1 inch aluminum blocks and 6 degree wedges custom adjustable control arms with Rubicon Express builder bushings Rusty's Hydro shocks Rubicon Express Hack -N - Tap slip yoke eliminator. Rebuilt rear shaft with Spicer CV joint. Dual Rusty's steering stabilizers. TJ 15"x 8" aluminum wheels 35x12.50 R15 BFG ALL TERRAIN K/O TIRES Full size spare tire with matching wheel B&M transmission cooler stainless rear break hose Extended front sway bar disconnects Rusty's cut out flare fenders I recently hurt my knee and now it's too hard to go in and out of the jeep. I am also only 5'4". any suggestion about what to do to lower this thing, down to maybe a 2 - 3 inch lift would be greatly appreciated. If I just got smaller tires would the height still be appropriate. Also would the suspension be messed up with wrong angles, etc. Thanks for any advice you can offer! Robin
If you need to keep it though, just take out the spacers and blocks and go to 32" tires. Also see if you can adjust the rear shackles, some have 2 holes for raising or lowering the lift an inch. All that should bring it down about 4". From there you can add a step to ease getting in and out. Also you can search "Low COG" on the forums for advice on lowering it and keeping the larger tires, you'll need to trim the body though.
You won't need to adjust the suspension if you go to smaller tires, but you will need to adjust the control arms, toe, and steering if you raise or lower it.
Last edited by Velcro; 11-05-2015 at 10:49 AM.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline6
Aight guys. My rear right doesn't seem to want hold pressure anymore since my last airdown trip. so I guess new tires might be in order. I live in Vegas so I'd like recommendations on a good street and dirt/rock tire/s. I currently have firestone destination MTs 31. They were awesome but also my first tires on my first personal vehicle so Idk. I see people say toyo, bfg, and firestone. Just wondering your guys opinions on the subject. I might stay 31 or go 33 and cut my fenders since I wanna do that anyway. I'll be doing more research in my off time at work tonight. Thanks in advance everyone.
Edit. So on break at work I went and checked the tire out a bit more. It appears I might just have a leaky vavlve stem. Will replace and go from there. But I still need to upgrade my tires in about a year or so anyway. So Question still stands!
Edit. So on break at work I went and checked the tire out a bit more. It appears I might just have a leaky vavlve stem. Will replace and go from there. But I still need to upgrade my tires in about a year or so anyway. So Question still stands!
Last edited by Blastonite; 11-07-2015 at 03:33 AM.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Aight guys. My rear right doesn't seem to want hold pressure anymore since my last airdown trip. so I guess new tires might be in order. I live in Vegas so I'd like recommendations on a good street and dirt/rock tire/s. I currently have firestone destination MTs 31. They were awesome but also my first tires on my first personal vehicle so Idk. I see people say toyo, bfg, and firestone. Just wondering your guys opinions on the subject. I might stay 31 or go 33 and cut my fenders since I wanna do that anyway. I'll be doing more research in my off time at work tonight. Thanks in advance everyone.
Edit. So on break at work I went and checked the tire out a bit more. It appears I might just have a leaky vavlve stem. Will replace and go from there. But I still need to upgrade my tires in about a year or so anyway. So Question still stands!
Edit. So on break at work I went and checked the tire out a bit more. It appears I might just have a leaky vavlve stem. Will replace and go from there. But I still need to upgrade my tires in about a year or so anyway. So Question still stands!
With so many different tires on the market, I'm sure you could find a different option that would meet all of your needs. But for me? I'd get another set of Destination M/Ts.
Beach Bum
1) Compromised valve core. The spring in valve stem core breaks, or pin becomes bent, or the internal rubber seal becomes compromised. If using screw-on defeaters, screw them on only halfway. Also keep spare valve cores and a stem in tool kit.
2) While driving with low psi, debris can get wedged between tire bead and wheel, causing a leak.
There can also be corrosion between tire bead and wheel, preventing seal.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 11-07-2015 at 07:34 AM.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline6
General FYI. There are two main issues that can arise from airing down.
1) Compromised valve core. The spring in valve stem core breaks, or pin becomes bent, or the internal rubber seal becomes compromised. If using screw-on defeaters, screw them on only halfway. Also keep spare valve cores and a stem in tool kit.
2) While driving with low psi, debris can get wedged between tire bead and wheel, causing a leak.
There can also be corrosion between tire bead and wheel, preventing seal.
1) Compromised valve core. The spring in valve stem core breaks, or pin becomes bent, or the internal rubber seal becomes compromised. If using screw-on defeaters, screw them on only halfway. Also keep spare valve cores and a stem in tool kit.
2) While driving with low psi, debris can get wedged between tire bead and wheel, causing a leak.
There can also be corrosion between tire bead and wheel, preventing seal.
CF Veteran
The Firestone Destination M/T is my favorite tire out of everything I've run. I think Mickey Thompson Baja Claws are worth considering for you, but I don't recommend them here due to poor snow/ice performance.
With so many different tires on the market, I'm sure you could find a different option that would meet all of your needs. But for me? I'd get another set of Destination M/Ts.
With so many different tires on the market, I'm sure you could find a different option that would meet all of your needs. But for me? I'd get another set of Destination M/Ts.
As a current owner of these, they are amazing. They let me keep up with all the guys who have lockers and massive lifts while im open diffs and 3''
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
General FYI. There are two main issues that can arise from airing down. 1) Compromised valve core. The spring in valve stem core breaks, or pin becomes bent, or the internal rubber seal becomes compromised. If using screw-on defeaters, screw them on only halfway. Also keep spare valve cores and a stem in tool kit. 2) While driving with low psi, debris can get wedged between tire bead and wheel, causing a leak. There can also be corrosion between tire bead and wheel, preventing seal.
I have pulled many trees out from between my tires and wheels though.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
2000 XJ Limited
3.5" Rubicon Express Super Ride lift with leafspring pack & twin tube shocks
1.0" tcase drop
Has anyone tried 2015 *****'s Wheeler wheels on an XJ before? I put them on using 1.25" adapters. The BFG Mud Terrains that came on the wheels were 255/75R17. They looked skinny but were tall enough to rub a bit, so I figured I would have to go closer to 31"
The wheels are 17 x 7.5" and backspacing looks to be 6". Can I put a wider tire on that wheel and be safe? Was looking at 285/65R17 Geolanders. Otherwise I will have to go with 265/70R17. Anyone have that size on a lifted XJ? How does that size look?
I kept the stock wheels on my other XJs. This is the first time I am trying a different wheel. Any advice appreciated!
3.5" Rubicon Express Super Ride lift with leafspring pack & twin tube shocks
1.0" tcase drop
Has anyone tried 2015 *****'s Wheeler wheels on an XJ before? I put them on using 1.25" adapters. The BFG Mud Terrains that came on the wheels were 255/75R17. They looked skinny but were tall enough to rub a bit, so I figured I would have to go closer to 31"
The wheels are 17 x 7.5" and backspacing looks to be 6". Can I put a wider tire on that wheel and be safe? Was looking at 285/65R17 Geolanders. Otherwise I will have to go with 265/70R17. Anyone have that size on a lifted XJ? How does that size look?
I kept the stock wheels on my other XJs. This is the first time I am trying a different wheel. Any advice appreciated!
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I plan on getting A to put on my stock 92 XJ, what other parts am I going to end up having to buy for this kit?
Are the 235/75 15's going to look too small? I read that with the 4.5 lift I can go up to a 32x11.5 without trimmingThe laws here mandate that our tires can't stick out past the fender flares. Which is why the 235's until I can order bigger flares which in turn will dictate how wide of a tire I can use.
I read somewhere on this forum that I could buy brake lines from a different model of truck that are longer, I know stainless hold pressure better but I'm in Hawaii and the salt in the air makes EVERYTHING rust so I'd rather go with rubber lines.
Are the 235/75 15's going to look too small? I read that with the 4.5 lift I can go up to a 32x11.5 without trimmingThe laws here mandate that our tires can't stick out past the fender flares. Which is why the 235's until I can order bigger flares which in turn will dictate how wide of a tire I can use.
I read somewhere on this forum that I could buy brake lines from a different model of truck that are longer, I know stainless hold pressure better but I'm in Hawaii and the salt in the air makes EVERYTHING rust so I'd rather go with rubber lines.
Last edited by Deltatech; 11-09-2015 at 06:15 AM.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
I plan on getting A to put on my stock 92 XJ, what other parts am I going to end up having to buy for this kit?
Are the 235/75 15's going to look too small? I read that with the 4.5 lift I can go up to a 32x11.5 without trimmingThe laws here mandate that our tires can't stick out past the fender flares. Which is why the 235's until I can order bigger flares which in turn will dictate how wide of a tire I can use.
I read somewhere on this forum that I could buy brake lines from a different model of truck that are longer, I know stainless hold pressure better but I'm in Hawaii and the salt in the air makes EVERYTHING rust so I'd rather go with rubber lines.
Are the 235/75 15's going to look too small? I read that with the 4.5 lift I can go up to a 32x11.5 without trimmingThe laws here mandate that our tires can't stick out past the fender flares. Which is why the 235's until I can order bigger flares which in turn will dictate how wide of a tire I can use.
I read somewhere on this forum that I could buy brake lines from a different model of truck that are longer, I know stainless hold pressure better but I'm in Hawaii and the salt in the air makes EVERYTHING rust so I'd rather go with rubber lines.
Stock tires will look small under a 4.5" lift.
If memory serves, you want 1993 Jeep Wrangler front brake lines. Definitely wait for somebody to confirm that, though. You'll also need a rear line. And if the rust is that bad, don't be surprised if your fittings break when you try to loosen them. When I installed longer brake lines on my Wrangler, I had to replace the entire brake system from the distribution block to the wheels.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 11-09-2015 at 08:36 AM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Deltatech
I plan on getting A to put on my stock 92 XJ, what other parts am I going to end up having to buy for this kit?
Are the 235/75 15's going to look too small? I read that with the 4.5 lift I can go up to a 32x11.5 without trimmingThe laws here mandate that our tires can't stick out past the fender flares. Which is why the 235's until I can order bigger flares which in turn will dictate how wide of a tire I can use.
I read somewhere on this forum that I could buy brake lines from a different model of truck that are longer, I know stainless hold pressure better but I'm in Hawaii and the salt in the air makes EVERYTHING rust so I'd rather go with rubber lines.
Are the 235/75 15's going to look too small? I read that with the 4.5 lift I can go up to a 32x11.5 without trimmingThe laws here mandate that our tires can't stick out past the fender flares. Which is why the 235's until I can order bigger flares which in turn will dictate how wide of a tire I can use.
I read somewhere on this forum that I could buy brake lines from a different model of truck that are longer, I know stainless hold pressure better but I'm in Hawaii and the salt in the air makes EVERYTHING rust so I'd rather go with rubber lines.
Last edited by SatiricalHen; 11-09-2015 at 09:01 AM.