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Old 09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:20 PM
  #25456  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
The ones that fit when you take off your current shocks, flex out the suspension, and measure each corner at extended and collapse lengths.

But I'd still get an SYE. You don't need a new driveshaft for a 1.5" change later, unless they do a poor job making it.
I'm all for the SYE/driveshaft, but was told it's a matter of length. I was told the procedure is install the SYE, measure the space between flanges and they send one the correct length. Later lift changes require re-measure and different length driveshaft.

I'll just add it, I want it correct.

Edit: Just spoke with Rusty himself, and he assured me with a relatively low mile stock driveshaft/Dana 35 setup as mine is, the SYE/driveshaft is unecessary. Yes, I'm flip-flopping but for now I'll save the expense. I can always add it later, and perhaps will.

Last edited by ElMartillo; 01-14-2016 at 01:47 PM.
Old 01-14-2016, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ElMartillo
I'm all for the SYE/driveshaft, but was told it's a matter of length. I was told the procedure is install the SYE, measure the space between flanges and they send one the correct length. Later lift changes require re-measure and different length driveshaft.

I'll just add it, I want it correct.

Edit: Just spoke with Rusty himself, and he assured me with a relatively low mile stock driveshaft/Dana 35 setup as mine is, the SYE/driveshaft is unecessary. Yes, I'm flip-flopping but for now I'll save the expense. I can always add it later, and perhaps will.
I've also spoken with Rusty himself, and that was the moment I decided I'd never give him any of my money. You probably won't need an SYE, but it's still a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.

Your priorities are your decision; I'm not trying to be passive aggressive here. I just disagree with him.
Old 01-14-2016, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I've also spoken with Rusty himself, and that was the moment I decided I'd never give him any of my money. You probably won't need an SYE, but it's still a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.

Your priorities are your decision; I'm not trying to be passive aggressive here. I just disagree with him.
I get it. I found his advice helpful, and as soon as I know for sure I'm sticking with this amount of lift, I'll get the SYE. Otherwise if it's likely I'll upgrade lift and longarm (which honestly I don't think I'll need, knowing my use for this vehicle) I'll hold off on the SYE until then.
Old 01-14-2016, 03:59 PM
  #25459  
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If my Cherokee goes into part time when I put it in four how do I put it in full time.. I have a full time light but it has never been lit up.
Old 01-14-2016, 04:23 PM
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If your shifter says "2H 4H N 4L" you only have Part Time (CommandTrac feature)

Full Time shifter reads 2WD 4WD Part Time 4WD Full Time Neutral 4 Low (SelecTrac)
Old 01-14-2016, 05:36 PM
  #25461  
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Originally Posted by ElMartillo
I get it. I found his advice helpful, and as soon as I know for sure I'm sticking with this amount of lift, I'll get the SYE. Otherwise if it's likely I'll upgrade lift and longarm (which honestly I don't think I'll need, knowing my use for this vehicle) I'll hold off on the SYE until then.
I'd get the sye personally. 1.5" extra shouldn't make a big enough difference in driveshaft length to need a new one unless it was barely working with 3". I was using a driveshaft for 3" lift with 5.5" of lift fine, flexed it and let the suspension droop, no problems. Whatever you do don't put on a tcase drop. Really bad idea.
Old 01-14-2016, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
...You probably won't need an SYE, but it's still a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion...
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
...I'd get the sye personally...
I'm taking your advice, gentlemen. Thank you.
Old 01-15-2016, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ElMartillo
I'm taking your advice, gentlemen. Thank you.
if you're worried about driveshaft cost you could do what I did and buy a junkyard shaft that fit for the time being till you're 100% the length you want.
Old 01-15-2016, 05:59 AM
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^^ This I'm running a rebuilt JY front shaft out of a ZJ with around 5"and have had zero issues. Traded out some stuff for the shaft, and rebuilt it for less than $100.
Old 01-15-2016, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
if you're worried about driveshaft cost you could do what I did and buy a junkyard shaft that fit for the time being till you're 100% the length you want.
Good call, Hen. A stock front DS from an XJ should do nicely.
Old 01-15-2016, 07:57 AM
  #25466  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Good call, Hen. A stock front DS from an XJ should do nicely.
I have good ideas sometimes...
Old 01-17-2016, 09:09 PM
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I just finished installing my rear suspension. The passenger side droops 3" lower than the driver side when the axle is hanging freely (jack stands on the frame). Is this normal?
Old 01-17-2016, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ExpeditionXJ
I just finished installing my rear suspension. The passenger side droops 3" lower than the driver side when the axle is hanging freely (jack stands on the frame). Is this normal?
Nope. Sounds like something is binding
Old 01-17-2016, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ExpeditionXJ
I just finished installing my rear suspension. The passenger side droops 3" lower than the driver side when the axle is hanging freely (jack stands on the frame). Is this normal?
Did you get a extend rear break line? I wonder if its hung up by that.
Old 01-17-2016, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Nope. Sounds like something is binding
****. I haven't torqued any of the bolts yet and there's not even a driveshaft connected.

I wonder if it's because my driveshaft isn't connected... It could allow the axle/ shock mounts to rotate and change the geometry. IDK

Originally Posted by Dumajones
Did you get a extend rear break line? I wonder if its hung up by that.
I do but its not connected yet.

Last edited by ExpeditionXJ; 01-17-2016 at 10:19 PM.


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