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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
Important information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Belton S.C.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can buy 4.5 rubicon coil springs and 2" add a leaf 275$ I am just wanting to know what all I will have to change like t-case drop brake lines adjustable track bar Im not to sure how high I can go with out changing a lot of other things so I guess the real question is can I put on 4.5 rubicon springs and a 2" add a leaf with 2.5 shackles with out changing anything else if so what is it?
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Location: Michigan
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So if I remove the bottom leaf spring (smallest) on my rustys 3 inch lift will it make it a smoother ride? It is very stiff in rear. I might do that and add a shackle (if it sags after removal) to put it to 4 inch where it is now... Some reason there is also no flex in the back even after rear sway bar removal... For now I think I am going to but a 3/4 inch spacer on the front to level it to 4 inch and add some rear sway bar links to front from a early 1990s f250.... I herd they are right fit and length for 4 inch of lift.
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
The shackle represents one side of a triangle, which has these points:
A is the front leaf spring eye
B is the rear leaf spring eye
C is the upper shackle bolt
The angle B (the angle of your shackle relative to a straight line that intersects the leaf spring eyes) has a significant role in how well/how much/how easily your leaf springs move in each direction (compression and extension).
A longer shackle changes that angle and brings it closer to 90 degrees. An ideal angle in most cases is 45 degrees. To compensate for a longer shackle, you either need longer leaf springs, which would move point B further back, or you need Shackle Relocation Boxes, which would move point C further forward.
A is the front leaf spring eye
B is the rear leaf spring eye
C is the upper shackle bolt
The angle B (the angle of your shackle relative to a straight line that intersects the leaf spring eyes) has a significant role in how well/how much/how easily your leaf springs move in each direction (compression and extension).
A longer shackle changes that angle and brings it closer to 90 degrees. An ideal angle in most cases is 45 degrees. To compensate for a longer shackle, you either need longer leaf springs, which would move point B further back, or you need Shackle Relocation Boxes, which would move point C further forward.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 02-23-2016 at 09:57 PM.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The shackle represents one side of a triangle, which has these points:
A is the front leaf spring eye
B is the rear leaf spring eye
C is the upper shackle bolt
The angle B (the angle of your shackle relative to a straight line that intersects the leaf spring eyes) has a significant role in how well/how much/how easily your leaf springs move in each direction (compression and extension).
A longer shackle changes that angle and brings it closer to 90 degrees. An ideal angle in most cases is 45 degrees. To compensate for a longer shackle, you either need longer leaf springs, which would move point B further back, or you need Shackle Relocation Boxes, which would move point C further forward.
A is the front leaf spring eye
B is the rear leaf spring eye
C is the upper shackle bolt
The angle B (the angle of your shackle relative to a straight line that intersects the leaf spring eyes) has a significant role in how well/how much/how easily your leaf springs move in each direction (compression and extension).
A longer shackle changes that angle and brings it closer to 90 degrees. An ideal angle in most cases is 45 degrees. To compensate for a longer shackle, you either need longer leaf springs, which would move point B further back, or you need Shackle Relocation Boxes, which would move point C further forward.
2 Inch economy to 3 in lift?
Hi I have a 1999 xj I had for near 10 years. The rear shackles rusted out so I put a rugget ridge 2 inch economy lift with spacers and shackles .I put a new fire in me to see the old gal sitting up. So now I was wanting to get bigger tires 31's and maybe go up 1 more inch .I was wondering if a 1 inch block in the rear and 3 inch spring up front would give me a 3 inch lift without further mod.
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
Hi I have a 1999 xj I had for near 10 years. The rear shackles rusted out so I put a rugget ridge 2 inch economy lift with spacers and shackles .I put a new fire in me to see the old gal sitting up. So now I was wanting to get bigger tires 31's and maybe go up 1 more inch .I was wondering if a 1 inch block in the rear and 3 inch spring up front would give me a 3 inch lift without further mod.
I can't say this enough: Skip the blocks. Take off the 2" shackles. Get stock shackles and new leaf packs. Or at least new UpCountry (1" lift) leaf packs and a set of shackle relocation boxes.
With 2" shackles and blocks, it'll ride terribly and dramatically increase the stress on your old, worn out leaf springs.
Attachment 283709
real quick question here. im ordering 4.5 lift kit and im looking for tires and wheels. correct me if im wrong but would 15X8 3.75 backspacing be perfect for a 33/12.5/15 or am I missing something? I know ill prob have to do small amounts of trimming on the 92 xj but other than wheel and tire fitment and not rubbing on the la should I be good?
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: CT
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Year: 2000
Engine: 4.0
real quick question here. im ordering 4.5 lift kit and im looking for tires and wheels. correct me if im wrong but would 15X8 3.75 backspacing be perfect for a 33/12.5/15 or am I missing something? I know ill prob have to do small amounts of trimming on the 92 xj but other than wheel and tire fitment and not rubbing on the la should I be good?
Ok thanks I just bought the 2 inch shackles and spacers and they work fine .It sounds like if I wand 3 inch lift it a whole another ball game. Well thats what I wanted to know thanks I ll be sticking to 2 inch for now,Id like to get bigger tires than the p235/75/15 's that I have on it now maybe that will apease me for now ....Can a 31/10.5 15 fit on the stock steel wheel and not rub ?``````````````````````````````````````````````
As far as a trac bar goes 2 questions . Would a Stock with a relocator(could be welded ) work well compared to a adjustable ? And more importantly are the adjustables long lasting on a daily driver I don't want to replace t every year.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
adjustable last a lot longer because when you lift more you can adjust to new lift height. Adjustable all the way for me.