Marks2000XJ

Is this possible? How much work is involved?

N20jeep

yes, quite a bit of work. i just did mine

Marks2000XJ

Alright, those bolts are coming out one way or another! I' can't afford to do that to mine. Not to mention mine is a DD so I' can't have it down too long.

N20jeep

yea, it was mainly just a joke...

Skipper

You have to spray/soak it with PB Blaster and wait at least over night for it to work not just give it a squirt and wait a few minutes.

If you can do it two or three time in a day then work on the bolt the next day would be best

Marks2000XJ

I did squirt it down several times, days in advance. I hit it hard again last night.

Today I went out and bought a breaker bar and a new 1/2" ratchet. Got them sum beaches off now, haha!

Good news is the rear shackles are on. Now for the front...tomorrow. The front should not be as bad???

Marks2000XJ

I kind of figured that

stryker1228

When I did mine the front was more difficult mainly because of more parts. And compressing the coils.

t00xjic

hey i got the 6.5 lonarm lift 4.0 backspacing, was going to get http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Ro...PCW98-5865S3.5 or http://roughcountry.com/mickey_thomp...l_classic.html for rim and http://roughcountry.com/cepek_tire_fcII.html 33x12.50r15 ... will it stick out too far or no? thats the big concern

Kuro89

I just picked up a RE track bar for cheap cuz the heim joint was slop, are there any other options to replace it with like a flex end, I have seen some use a TRE but i don't want to go that route, also while I'm at it is the bushing stock oe size?

jmm0122

The MT Classic II's have 5.5" bs and the pro comp ones have 3.5" bs meaning the pro comps will stick out more. The only issue you will have with the MT's is that they are the same backspacing as stock so you will have to run spacers to get them from rubbing. I would go with a rim that has at least 4" bs to keep the rubbing to a minimum. You also have to keep in mind of your local laws about your tire's sticking out past your flares.

http://www.liftlaws.com/

trug

I figure the question has been answered a hundred times but I cant find it.

I am looking to do this (pic below) with a 2 inch lift, I really want to go with OME medium rear leafs but I am not sure how it will hold up.

My 74 yamaha weighs close to 300 lbs wet plus the gas can I strap to the carrier, I figure It is probably the equivalent of pulling a trailer with a 400lb tongue weight after leverage is factored in. Does any one have any experience with those springs and that much weight?

I am also trying to avoid bastard packs because I don't trust my current springs (21 years old and the rust to prove it) so no matter what I do I will be buying new springs and the OEM springs are only $30 less than OME.

Marks2000XJ

I figured I would show off what I accomplished yesterday. Thanks for every ones advice how to get those stubborn bolts loose! This is just the rear done for now. Will get to the front in a day or so. Then 30x9.50 tires on Friday.

First pic is before. Second is after installing 2" shackles in the rear. Hard to tell a lot from the pics but you can tell if you were actually standing next to the jeep.

nrwphoto

I have been looking through this and many other threads and it seems like most are talking about 3.5"+ of lift, which is more than I want. Went wheeling Broken Arrow in Sedona, AZ this weekend and I think I broke a leaf on the drivers side, sags about 1" lower now than the other. 98' with WJ LCA and 30" currently and stock susp. looking for all new springs in the 2-3" range. I know of OME but those kits are a bit more than I want to spend, how is Rusty's 3" leaf kit hold up and ride? Also will I be alright with this much lift and continue to run the WJ LCA?

Disoriented Hillbilly

Look at Rough Country Series II kit. Cheap and sweet. I run 31x10.5's no prob with front sway bar discos. Works out pretty well. Gets me where i wanna go without breaking the bank or doing an obscene amount of work that I dont have time to do.