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You can buy extended links or disconnects. Disconnects are links that have been built to spec for different lift heights AND have the quick disconnect feature. Most widely recommended is the JKS Quicker Disconnect. I'm a big fan, but they're a little pricey.
Okay sweet! I'll check those out and see. Thanks for all of yall's help. Much appreciated.
Can you explain how you modified them? Sorry for the million questions. I just want to be absolutely sure I get all the right parts and not have to return anything. Or leave something out that is drastically needed.
No problem. There are several great choices for disconnects out there. The Rusty's is adjustable in length, presumably so it will fit several models and/or lift heights. Adjustability is not necessary if the links/disconnects are made correctly for your specific application. That being said, upon installation I noticed the sway bar angle was higher than the instructions specified for my model. Easy, right? They're adjustable. Well, I couldn't adjust them down enough to be correct. See photo 1. You'll see in the photos the disconnects are made of three main parts. Two ends and a threaded adjuster between them. The threaded adjuster was too long and bottomed out in the bore of each end with about 3/8 of threads to go, on both ends. I took the ends off the threaded adjuster, cut about 1/2" off both ends, then cleaned up the cut threads. Now they adjust all the way down, correct length for the desired sway bar position. See photo 2. I still want to cut the black bracket at the top down some and redrill/tap the pin holes to get about another 1/2" out of them, but this will work for now.
Do I like the fact I had to mod them? No, but it's what I had to do to make them work.
I see that. Hmm well then, guess i'll have my work cut out for me in a few days. I went ahead and ordered rustys discos.
They are well made. Try adjusting them down before install. Maybe I got an oddball set. At least you know ahead of time. Won't take long to mod as I did, but if you don't wanna deal with it you can send 'em back, they've been great about potential returns. You'll just be out the $7 to ship em back.
They are well made. Try adjusting them down before install. Maybe I got an oddball set. At least you know ahead of time. Won't take long to mod as I did, but if you don't wanna deal with it you can send 'em back, they've been great about potential returns. You'll just be out the $7 to ship em back.
Thanks for the tip. I'll def do that. Just a quick question if you or anyone else knows. If I did happen to ever want to get up to a 4.5" lift, could I use my coil spacers and 1.5' shackles from my current RC lift?
Thanks for the tip. I'll def do that. Just a quick question if you or anyone else knows. If I did happen to ever want to get up to a 4.5" lift, could I use my coil spacers and 1.5' shackles from my current RC lift?
I would think so, and your SYE/CV Driveshaft setup will accomodate it
I got my Advance Adapters/Tom Woods from Rusty's as I was ordering from them anyway. The procedure is they send you the SYE, you install it, measure yoke-to-yoke and they then send you the correct length driveshaft.
Anyone tried the Kenda brand of tires? Been looking into getting some of their Klever M/Ts in 31x10.5x15. I've heard from co-workers they supposedly have more rubber in the them and wear slower. Pretty aggressive tread also.
I don't know much about them... but they appear to be a tread design inspired by the Mickey Thompson Baja MTZs... please don't take that to mean they are a house-branded MTZ... 'cause I'm sure they're not. However, they may be a good tire. I would just try a google search of "Kenda Klever tire reviews"
Originally Posted by Damiano
Hey guys, I just bought a '98 XJ and it will be my daily driver but...
I still want it to look good!
So I was looking for either a 3'' Skyjacker kit OR Rubicon Express
The thing is I want something complete and not say after... maybe I should of bought the bigger kit.
I already have a Jeep TJ on 37 with a total of 7.5" lift on it, so I'm not really looking on going offroading that much with the Cherokee... more maybe fishing and camping etc etc
But I would like something nice and complete... don't want to go 4'' because I'll need a SYE and drivings probably right?
So I need your advice PLEASE!!!
Thanks to you all
Check this out man... http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-...erokee/j21-j22
you can get a 3" kit from zone and add on links, discos, LCAs, nitro shocks, and make it 100% complete to your door... it will be closer to $1k once you do, but you'll have everything you need (with the exception of extended brake lines and adjustable track bar) in a quality kit from a trusted manufacturer.
Pretty much any kit you pick up, there's going to be some add-ons that you'll need or want... but the RE kit and Zone kit are going to give you all or most of what you NEED from the get-go.
Use this infograph as a guide for what else you'll need, but if you have a TJ on 37's, I'm thinking you probably already have a good general idea.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Bent control arms are usually bent to allow more axle droop before the LCA hits the shock mounting plate. The roundness of the LCA tubes helps prevent tread blocks from getting locked against them, but the tires will still rub the arms.
I think he's talking about the ones that are bent in-board to allow for additional tire clearance.
Engine: The legendary inline 6, haven't done anything here yet
Originally Posted by ElMartillo
No problem. There are several great choices for disconnects out there. The Rusty's is adjustable in length, presumably so it will fit several models and/or lift heights. Adjustability is not necessary if the links/disconnects are made correctly for your specific application. That being said, upon installation I noticed the sway bar angle was higher than the instructions specified for my model. Easy, right? They're adjustable. Well, I couldn't adjust them down enough to be correct. See photo 1. You'll see in the photos the disconnects are made of three main parts. Two ends and a threaded adjuster between them. The threaded adjuster was too long and bottomed out in the bore of each end with about 3/8 of threads to go, on both ends. I took the ends off the threaded adjuster, cut about 1/2" off both ends, then cleaned up the cut threads. Now they adjust all the way down, correct length for the desired sway bar position. See photo 2. I still want to cut the black bracket at the top down some and redrill/tap the pin holes to get about another 1/2" out of them, but this will work for now.
Do I like the fact I had to mod them? No, but it's what I had to do to make them work.
Those look really nice you should see what I had to do to mine lol slice dice and weld (my rough country adjustables couldn't adjust enough for extended perches
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
you should see what I had to do to mine lol slice dice and weld (my rough country adjustables couldn't adjust enough for extended perches