Basslicks

I have Nankang Mudstars on mine. They do surprisingly well off road and they're about the cheapest tire I've seen. The tread pattern looks almost identical to the Maxxis Buckshot Mudders. HOWEVER, they ride horribly, don't balance well, and they have poor traction in wet conditions. I can't wait to get rid of these tires. But if all you're looking for is a dirt-cheap dirt-performer.... look no further.

Keep your pimp hand strong?

Not really sure on your question. You'll need an SYE and a driveshaft. You can do the H&T and just use the front driveshaft out of an XJ for an affordable option. Iron Rock Offroad has a H&T kit for about a hundred bucks. Tom woods makes a kit for the 242 that includes the driveshaft but it's a few hundred for that setup. Allegedly, it's supposed to be stronger than the traditional H&T because they cut an OEM shaft and re-spline it. At the end of the day though, you're still getting a Hack n Tap, you're just not doing it yourself and you have a little more peace of mind that the splines go deeper down the shaft.

The early design vs. late design... well, does the tail of your transfer case look like a cone or a dome. Cone is early, dome is late.

XJwonders

I have had 30" tires on my stock XJ when I got it. Didn't rub and drove fine

SatiricalHen

I tried some 30s on when I was looking for new tires stock and I couldn't turn with them on and the back would've rubbed like crazy since I rubbed with 29s I guess each jeep is a little different.

NewKindOfClown

The rear shouldn't rub with 30s and definitely not with stock tires. Either your springs were awful, or something had been done previously to your Jeep. The front will rub on your LCAs, but that should be it.

I ran 30s on my Comanche (slightly different wheel opening) on stock and aftermarket wheels without any issues.

SatiricalHen

rubbed on the fenders in the rear and bumper caps in the front, probably because of the greater backspacing on the rims.

cbs_24

Pry bar and being soaked overnight in PB blaster made it much easier my second go.

cbs_24

Finished installing my lift. 3.5" RE springs and shocks in the front, Old Man Emu 2.75" leaf springs with RE shocks in the rear. Rugged ridge factory replacement shackles. Shackle angle is decent, but will probably upgrade to relocaters in the near future. Still need to install my JKS trackbar and RC sway bar disconnects. Also need to purchase longer front/rear brake lines. Front axle definitely needs to be centered and steering geometry is off. Obviously wheels/tires still too. Debating between 31s or 33s.




Anyone have any tips for track bar install?

SatiricalHen

I've heard ratchet strap to help line up the holes.

erikfoxx55

Have a 2014. Had major unresolved tranny issues. Long story short, decided to start modifying it, to hell with the warranty. Wanted to start with some basic wheel, tire, and suspension stuff. Am I in the right place?

NewKindOfClown

You're in the place that's gonna tell you your vehicle IS a major unresolved tranny issue.

I had to get one jab in there

There's a separate sub-forum on the main page for the new KL Cherokee. This area is for the '84-01 XJ Cherokee.

erikfoxx55

Don't I know it. I live too far from the quarry . . .Appreciate it.

Kuya

I'm planning to do an internal stripping for a visual and rust repair on my 95 XJ in the next 10 days. Is there any advantages or disadvantages of completing a 3 inch lift before I replace the interior? I'm not in a rush and I have a 2 car garage to work in.

XJwonders

it doesn't matter really either way works

XJwonders

we don't really know much about KL though

Snachez

Having trouble deciding between the rough country 4.5 x series and the 6.5 x series.. If I go 4.5 most likely I'll run 31s and 33s with the 6.5...im already planing on getting a new sye and driveshaft regardless of the lift.. Can anyone give me the benefits of them? I honestly have no idea which size I would rather go with.. If one is clearly *better* then obviously but if not idk.. Thanks guys