DirtyKurty

*will it be

Cane

yeah the front tires are like 3-4/32 more used in the front than rear. most of it was due to a bad alignement but I'm sure it doesn't help

right now I'll see how the leaf springs turn out and i'll go from there. ideally I would go long arm right away but it's just not in my budget for now.

shackles are a good idea, if it sits too high in the back I'll get smaller shackles and then just save up until I can get enough $ for long arms.

TFitzPat87

^^^Spend way more money that way. If you know you'll go long arms, just save for them. Wait to install the new leafs until you have the long arms installed. Just my two cents.

EDIT: That's kinda what you said now that I read it again. It's been a long day.

Basslicks

Looks good to me.

Cane

all good haha, a second opinion always helps.

i just looked into it more and came to those prices ($CAD)

1) if i stay with short arms and keep my RC fixed LCAs (hopefully i can still use them?), i will need drop brackets (300$) and will get RE adjustable uppers (310$), for a total of 610 + tax.

2) if i go long arms, i looked into the cavfab and will probably go with them if they ship to canada. price is 1109$ + assuming max $100 for shipping, so an approx. total of 1209$ + probably import/brokerage fees

the only thing is I'm not sure if I'm ready to wait in order to get long arms. My front tires are already set back a little so I'd like to fix this problem as soon as possible, hence why I considered drop brackets.

TFitzPat87

I'd personally still wait until you can purchase long arms. Plus, I think if you went drop brackets, you'd want adjustable uppers and lowers. I don't have the experience, just my thoughts.

Chuck82

Agreed, I went that route and it's better to save up for long arms instead of getting a short arm kit than getting a long arm upgrade in the future.

PNWjeeper

Is there any particular reason people don't keep the stock rims?

I like my gold spokes and don't see any reason to change them aside from the fact that finding tires to fit 15" rims could be a little difficult.

salad

Backspacing. Larger tires rub on the inside of the wheel well and suspension. Also, not everyone likes the stock rims - I'm not a huge fan of the Eccos. I really like turbines. Will be ordering spacer/adapters to push them out a tad.

william mirra

Has anyone taken s-10 blazer mags ands adapted them to the cherokee? I am wondering if the studs clear the mags properly. I don't want to buy and have to return the adapters. 4.5-4.75 if the jeep studs and lug nuts hit the blazer mags.
my steel wheels are ruuuusty.

hmmm no answers or opinions i guess y'all are just too busy.......... i'll figure it out

jackace

Looking for opinions on 4.5 LA Kits.

The two I am trying to decide between are;

the Clayton kit: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/xj_lo...01_cherokee_xj

the BDS Kit: http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma...2001&kid=1427H

Chuck82

Those are both really great kits, but if I were to do it over again I'd probably choose the BDS, since it's a true 4 link and not a radius arm.

jackace

Whats the difference between radius arm and true 4 Link?

the BDS doesnt have an option for the ford 8.8 axle in the kit selection, does that matter?

NewKindOfClown

Radius arm: The upper and lower control arm are joined together on at least one side (driver or passenger) and share the same mounting point on the body of the vehicle. This induces more binding than a true 4-link. You can see in the Clayton picture that it looks like a wishbone.

True 4-link: Two uppers and two lowers, each with their own independent mounting points. You can see this in the BDS picture.

3-link: Two lowers and one upper. This offers the best articulation with the least amount of binding. I've heard they're less stable on the street, but I've never driven anything with a 3-link.

jackace

Thanks for the rundown, Its Sounding Like BDS is probably the route I'm gonna go with.