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Old 09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
You'd be using the S10 donor as an AAL. Two 3" leafs won't make 6". They'll make a more resilient 3".
Makes sense. My understanding was that the s10 main would just rearch it and give slightly higher than stock height and the aal would give it the rest of the height. Only thing i dont like about using the s10 leaves is the straight leaf on the bottom.
Old 08-02-2016, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Spydie
Makes sense. My understanding was that the s10 main would just rearch it and give slightly higher than stock height and the aal would give it the rest of the height. Only thing i dont like about using the s10 leaves is the straight leaf on the bottom.
It's all mix-and-match when you use donor leaf springs and AALs. The condition of each of your leafs, in each leaf pack, will make your results different from someone else's. So will the condition of each leaf you borrow from a donor vehicle.

You also need to consider the different spring rates. The amount if weight it takes to compress an S10 one inch is very different from compressing an XJ one inch. To complicate things further, that rate changes as the spring pack compresses and more of the individual leafs start holding the load together.

When you also use an AAL designed for an XJ, it's now trying to lift against an S10 leaf instead of an XJ leaf. This can change its effectiveness.

It's all more complex that it seems at a glance.
Old 08-02-2016, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Spydie
Makes sense. My understanding was that the s10 main would just rearch it and give slightly higher than stock height and the aal would give it the rest of the height. Only thing i dont like about using the s10 leaves is the straight leaf on the bottom.
I usually refer people to Dukie's build as a good starting point when doing a bastard pack. He's got a pretty good setup and it works well for him. YRMV of course, but it's a good baseline.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...0/#post1789841

Check out his whole build. Lot of good ideas in there.
Old 08-03-2016, 09:56 AM
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OK, gang question, when I got my 98 XJ it had a lift on it, OP says it is 3" but it is more like 2. I had purchased a 2" lift kit to go on another XJ that I ended up getting rid of that I want to put on my 98. It has all new coils, shocks and I also got new leaf springs to go with it. My question is it had a D44 axle swap so the u bolts that came with the kit obviously don't work any more. Can I reuse the u bolts that I have now or should I purchase new ones?
Old 08-03-2016, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Pelagius
OK, gang question, when I got my 98 XJ it had a lift on it, OP says it is 3" but it is more like 2. I had purchased a 2" lift kit to go on another XJ that I ended up getting rid of that I want to put on my 98. It has all new coils, shocks and I also got new leaf springs to go with it. My question is it had a D44 axle swap so the u bolts that came with the kit obviously don't work any more. Can I reuse the u bolts that I have now or should I purchase new ones?
The safe answer is to never ever reuse u-bolts, and I recommend installing new ones. That said, I have done it in a pinch and I haven't personally had trouble.
Old 08-03-2016, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
I usually refer people to Dukie's build as a good starting point when doing a bastard pack. He's got a pretty good setup and it works well for him. YRMV of course, but it's a good baseline.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...0/#post1789841

Check out his whole build. Lot of good ideas in there.
Thanks for the tip. I was going to do the new coils and drop shackles at one time and do the bastard pack later, but just found a good deal on some good s10 springs so looks like ill be doing it all at once! Luckily i have full access to a car lift so that should help quite a bit
Old 08-03-2016, 03:24 PM
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The safe answer is to never ever reuse u-bolts, and I recommend installing new ones. That said, I have done it in a pinch and I haven't personally had trouble.
Thanks for the insight. They are not that expensive and I am not on a time crunch so I will get them.
Old 08-04-2016, 02:15 PM
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Next question, whats the best wheel size for 33x12.5x15 (or x16)? I was looking at some silver cragar d window wheels and realized theyre only 15x7 and dont make a 15x8. The only other size is a 15x10 but after some searching it seems everyone says to stay away from the bigger wheel size as its easier for the tire to come unseated but it's also said 7" is way too small. If i have to i'll run 33x10.5x15 (or x16) but would like the bigger tire size. Thanks again
Old 08-04-2016, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Spydie
Next question, whats the best wheel size for 33x12.5x15 (or x16)? I was looking at some silver cragar d window wheels and realized theyre only 15x7 and dont make a 15x8. The only other size is a 15x10 but after some searching it seems everyone says to stay away from the bigger wheel size as its easier for the tire to come unseated but it's also said 7" is way too small. If i have to i'll run 33x10.5x15 (or x16) but would like the bigger tire size. Thanks again
I'd rather put them on a 10" than a 7". Whether or not it's an issue depends on how far you air down your tires
Old 08-04-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'd rather put them on a 10" than a 7". Whether or not it's an issue depends on how far you air down your tires
Usually don't air down much. Almost never rock crawl or go on the sand dunes, mostly trails and ruts and the usual trip to the offroad park. How far down would be risky? I don't want to have 0 option to air down but like i said, I dont need to go super low for heavy rock crawling
Old 08-04-2016, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Spydie
Usually don't air down much. Almost never rock crawl or go on the sand dunes, mostly trails and ruts and the usual trip to the offroad park. How far down would be risky? I don't want to have 0 option to air down but like i said, I dont need to go super low for heavy rock crawling
I do 10 in the sand... Prob could do 8 but don't want to risk it
Old 08-04-2016, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Spydie
Usually don't air down much. Almost never rock crawl or go on the sand dunes, mostly trails and ruts and the usual trip to the offroad park. How far down would be risky? I don't want to have 0 option to air down but like i said, I dont need to go super low for heavy rock crawling
Just my opinions here:
I run 12.5s on 8s, and I only air down to around 10psi. I know I could go farther, but I've never needed to for what I run. I could safely go to 5-6 if I wanted. With 33x12.5 on a 10" wheel, I'd feel comfortable around 8-10psi, but there's no exact science to the whole thing.
Old 08-04-2016, 03:52 PM
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I'm looking at tires, likely 37x12.5x17.
Lots of street and highway miles with a requirement for snow capability. Occasional trips to Rausch Creek and some mud. For reference, I would favor Duratracs if they had a stronger sidewall.

Any first-hand opinions of these tires in that context?
- Toyo Open Country M/T
- Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ
- Goodyear MTR w/Kevlar
Old 08-04-2016, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'm looking at tires, likely 37x12.5x17.
Lots of street and highway miles with a requirement for snow capability. Occasional trips to Rausch Creek and some mud. For reference, I would favor Duratracs if they had a stronger sidewall.

Any first-hand opinions of these tires in that context?
- Toyo Open Country M/T
- Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ
- Goodyear MTR w/Kevlar
Duratracs are a hybrid if I remember correctly. I have Mickey Thompson atz3 on my truck and love them. Not sure if they come in 37s though
Old 08-05-2016, 01:49 AM
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Any experience with Acos adjustable coil spacers? I stumbled upon those and like the idea of them a lot. A new bump stop, and if the 4.5" coils aren't enough for the bastard pack and drop brackets, I can raise it up to the right height or level it, and if the leafs ever sag I can adjust it to match. And, theyre not plastic which is a huge bonus in my opinion. Are they too good to be true?


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