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No, I don't lick fish.
I am looking for information about Old Man Emu 2 1/2" leaf springs for my 94 XJ. I bought springs in new condition but from a local shop.
1) One leaf has a O painted in yellow on top of the spring near the front (larger) bushing. The other leaf spring has an X on it. Does that indicate which side of the vehicle they should go on?
1) One leaf has a O painted in yellow on top of the spring near the front (larger) bushing. The other leaf spring has an X on it. Does that indicate which side of the vehicle they should go on?
"What do the +,o,- marks on my spring mean?
OME/Dakar spring will often have a +, o, or a - painted on one end of the leaf spring, so what does that mean? The + means slightly over spec, and when we say slightly it wasn't enough to consider the spring an error rather it is by design. The o is exactly at spec and the - slightly below spec, again by design. As the drivers side of a vehicle often has more weight, its common to use a + on the drivers side and a o or a - on the passenger side. Or, a o on the drivers side and a - on the passenger. The total difference side to side is likely just 1/8"-1/4" but it can be just the right amount to level the vehicle. This is particularly important when A and B springs are not offered such as many of the newer spring applications."
2) problem is a noise/grabbing after the springs had been installed. At even the slowest (5 mph) forward or reverse movement I hear and feel a chirp and a grab that causes the rear to bounce a little. I have heard of the drive shaft binding but have never experienced that on any of my vehicles. In addition to the 2 1/2" springs I put an extended shackle which is about 1 1/4"
My first thought is to simply put the original shackles back on which would lower the rear lift slightly. I don't know if I need an SYE (which I know zero about). I also thought about shims but do not know where to begin concerning angle etc.
Any thoughts will help, kind of feel frustrated after all the work so far.
Thanks
My first thought is to simply put the original shackles back on which would lower the rear lift slightly. I don't know if I need an SYE (which I know zero about). I also thought about shims but do not know where to begin concerning angle etc.
Any thoughts will help, kind of feel frustrated after all the work so far.
Thanks
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From http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tec...leaf_tech.html
"What do the +,o,- marks on my spring mean?
OME/Dakar spring will often have a +, o, or a - painted on one end of the leaf spring, so what does that mean? The + means slightly over spec, and when we say slightly it wasn't enough to consider the spring an error rather it is by design. The o is exactly at spec and the - slightly below spec, again by design. As the drivers side of a vehicle often has more weight, its common to use a + on the drivers side and a o or a - on the passenger side. Or, a o on the drivers side and a - on the passenger. The total difference side to side is likely just 1/8"-1/4" but it can be just the right amount to level the vehicle. This is particularly important when A and B springs are not offered such as many of the newer spring applications."
"What do the +,o,- marks on my spring mean?
OME/Dakar spring will often have a +, o, or a - painted on one end of the leaf spring, so what does that mean? The + means slightly over spec, and when we say slightly it wasn't enough to consider the spring an error rather it is by design. The o is exactly at spec and the - slightly below spec, again by design. As the drivers side of a vehicle often has more weight, its common to use a + on the drivers side and a o or a - on the passenger side. Or, a o on the drivers side and a - on the passenger. The total difference side to side is likely just 1/8"-1/4" but it can be just the right amount to level the vehicle. This is particularly important when A and B springs are not offered such as many of the newer spring applications."
Thank you for that information, well since I didn't notice the X until the drivers side was on, looks like I get to take it all back off and swap sides. Good practice, right?
From http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tec...leaf_tech.html
Did you replace the shocks when you installed the lift or did you reuse your old ones? It's possible the pistons on the shocks are causing the problem. Try temporarily removing your shocks and see if it still occurs.
Did you replace the shocks when you installed the lift or did you reuse your old ones? It's possible the pistons on the shocks are causing the problem. Try temporarily removing your shocks and see if it still occurs.
I still need to figure out the squeal which I think is the drive shaft binding a little. Maybe taking out the extended shackle would change the angle enough. Back to the drawing board.
Basslicks, thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
No, I don't lick fish.
Thank you for that information, well since I didn't notice the X until the drivers side was on, looks like I get to take it all back off and swap sides. Good practice, right?
Yes, I did but the shock seemed maxed with the extended shackle so I figured I would need to buy longer ones. That might explain the jerking if the shock maxed?
I still need to figure out the squeal which I think is the drive shaft binding a little. Maybe taking out the extended shackle would change the angle enough. Back to the drawing board.
Basslicks, thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
Yes, I did but the shock seemed maxed with the extended shackle so I figured I would need to buy longer ones. That might explain the jerking if the shock maxed?
I still need to figure out the squeal which I think is the drive shaft binding a little. Maybe taking out the extended shackle would change the angle enough. Back to the drawing board.
Basslicks, thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
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Based on what you described before, it looks like you're lifted about 2-2.5" right? That shouldn't have any effect on your driveshaft. I would start with the shocks and shackles. Grease the bushings if you need to and check and make sure the slip plates are in the leaf packs. Also inspect your bolts - if they're rusty, they may make a squeaking sound inside the bushing sleeves. But first, definitely remove those shocks and do some low-speed driving around the neighborhood and see what the result is. I would, at the very least, get longer shocks no matter what. You don't want them bottoming or topping out at all.
The leafs are 2.5 and then add in the adjustable shackle. That would be 3.5" but to me it seems even higher. I looked up the shock choice we got and they are ZONE rear nitro shocks for 3-4" lift (model ZON-7980). I will pull shocks and shackles tomorrow and see. Tires in pics are 31"
Front lift was OME 1 3/4" springs with 3/4" spacers and the rake makes me feel total rear lift is around 4" right now. Probably wrong as I am just eyeing things.
Last edited by 96ss2283; 06-26-2017 at 03:27 PM.
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The rear is more than 2.5"
The leafs are 2.5 and then add in the adjustable shackle. That would be 3.5" but to me it seems even higher. I looked up the shock choice we got and they are ZONE rear nitro shocks for 3-4" lift (model ZON-7980). I will pull shocks and shackles tomorrow and see. Tires in pics are 31"
Front lift was OME 1 3/4" springs with 3/4" spacers and the rake makes me feel total rear lift is around 4" right now. Probably wrong as I am just eyeing things.
The leafs are 2.5 and then add in the adjustable shackle. That would be 3.5" but to me it seems even higher. I looked up the shock choice we got and they are ZONE rear nitro shocks for 3-4" lift (model ZON-7980). I will pull shocks and shackles tomorrow and see. Tires in pics are 31"
Front lift was OME 1 3/4" springs with 3/4" spacers and the rake makes me feel total rear lift is around 4" right now. Probably wrong as I am just eyeing things.
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completely showing ignorance here but which is the 'overload' spring? I had read that one of the leafs could be removed (not sure which one) to lower the lift but I wasn't sure if that would eventually settle out to less than 2.5" and look like a saggy rear again.
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yes, they are "2.5" OME springs
completely showing ignorance here but which is the 'overload' spring? I had read that one of the leafs could be removed (not sure which one) to lower the lift but I wasn't sure if that would eventually settle out to less than 2.5" and look like a saggy rear again.
completely showing ignorance here but which is the 'overload' spring? I had read that one of the leafs could be removed (not sure which one) to lower the lift but I wasn't sure if that would eventually settle out to less than 2.5" and look like a saggy rear again.
What you have are OME 3.5" leafs. You need to take out the center/middle leaf and put them back together. This will make them roughly a 2.5" leaf pack. Get rid of the extended shackles as well, and you'll probably be sitting pretty nice.
OME doesn't have a 2.5" leaf pack for the XJ. Just 3.5" and 4.5", and you can remove the center leaf on both to get about 1" less left.
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The overload spring is the flat one on the bottom. However, thats NOT the one you want to remove.
What you have are OME 3.5" leafs. You need to take out the center/middle leaf and put them back together. This will make them roughly a 2.5" leaf pack. Get rid of the extended shackles as well, and you'll probably be sitting pretty nice.
OME doesn't have a 2.5" leaf pack for the XJ. Just 3.5" and 4.5", and you can remove the center leaf on both to get about 1" less left.
What you have are OME 3.5" leafs. You need to take out the center/middle leaf and put them back together. This will make them roughly a 2.5" leaf pack. Get rid of the extended shackles as well, and you'll probably be sitting pretty nice.
OME doesn't have a 2.5" leaf pack for the XJ. Just 3.5" and 4.5", and you can remove the center leaf on both to get about 1" less left.
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The overload spring is the flat one on the bottom. However, thats NOT the one you want to remove.
What you have are OME 3.5" leafs. You need to take out the center/middle leaf and put them back together. This will make them roughly a 2.5" leaf pack. Get rid of the extended shackles as well, and you'll probably be sitting pretty nice.
OME doesn't have a 2.5" leaf pack for the XJ. Just 3.5" and 4.5", and you can remove the center leaf on both to get about 1" less left.
What you have are OME 3.5" leafs. You need to take out the center/middle leaf and put them back together. This will make them roughly a 2.5" leaf pack. Get rid of the extended shackles as well, and you'll probably be sitting pretty nice.
OME doesn't have a 2.5" leaf pack for the XJ. Just 3.5" and 4.5", and you can remove the center leaf on both to get about 1" less left.
Thanks sycoglitch for the help too. I appreciate everyone's responses.
It has been good practice today though. Got the leaf springs swapped to the right side and the shackles changed in 2 hours in my drive way with no helper.
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3 inches
I use my XJ as a dd with some occasional off roading. I don't do anything crazy or rock crawl, since it is my dd. I'm wanting to get it around 3-3.5 inches. I currently have a set of flat stock leafs(useless) and a set that I believe is for 4.5 inches but sits more around 5ish. I'm looking for a good ride but don't want to spend a ton of money either. I've thought of a few different options.
A) Flat out buy 3 inch springs but don't want them to sit 4.5 like I've read about some.
B) Buy 2 or 2.5 inch springs and bigger shackles.
C) Is it possible to remove a leaf from my current spring since it's at 5 inches? Would that be safe?
If option C is possible that would be then cheapest. What would be the best option for my goals? Any other ideas?
A) Flat out buy 3 inch springs but don't want them to sit 4.5 like I've read about some.
B) Buy 2 or 2.5 inch springs and bigger shackles.
C) Is it possible to remove a leaf from my current spring since it's at 5 inches? Would that be safe?
If option C is possible that would be then cheapest. What would be the best option for my goals? Any other ideas?
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@Danger12
I'd go with a new set of springs, 3" from RE or Zone, I'd steer clear of Rough Country. They're all gonna sit high till they break in and settle. Pick up a few 40lb bags of litter from any parts store, throw em in the back for a couple weeks and drive it. This will keep the height down and speed up the break in.
My question. The Badger sits at 3.5" above stock, but the rear lift was accomplished by the PO by way of AALs, lift shackles & blocks. This is going away now(along with the D35!).
Got the 8.25 ready, got new 3.5" springs, U-bolts are enroute... I'm debating on shackles. Obviously the current 2" lift shackles are a no-go.
First thought was just new OE bits, but I'm concerned about travel. I wheel her pretty hard, and daily drive her on San Antonio streets(which is just as rough, lol). Am I over thinking this, or might I max out the travel of OE shackles? Zero-lift boomerangs, anybody have real world experience with em? Thoughts?
I'd go with a new set of springs, 3" from RE or Zone, I'd steer clear of Rough Country. They're all gonna sit high till they break in and settle. Pick up a few 40lb bags of litter from any parts store, throw em in the back for a couple weeks and drive it. This will keep the height down and speed up the break in.
My question. The Badger sits at 3.5" above stock, but the rear lift was accomplished by the PO by way of AALs, lift shackles & blocks. This is going away now(along with the D35!).
Got the 8.25 ready, got new 3.5" springs, U-bolts are enroute... I'm debating on shackles. Obviously the current 2" lift shackles are a no-go.
First thought was just new OE bits, but I'm concerned about travel. I wheel her pretty hard, and daily drive her on San Antonio streets(which is just as rough, lol). Am I over thinking this, or might I max out the travel of OE shackles? Zero-lift boomerangs, anybody have real world experience with em? Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by TwistedWrench
@Danger12
I'd go with a new set of springs, 3" from RE or Zone, I'd steer clear of Rough Country. They're all gonna sit high till they break in and settle. Pick up a few 40lb bags of litter from any parts store, throw em in the back for a couple weeks and drive it. This will keep the height down and speed up the break in.
My question. The Badger sits at 3.5" above stock, but the rear lift was accomplished by the PO by way of AALs, lift shackles & blocks. This is going away now(along with the D35!).
Got the 8.25 ready, got new 3.5" springs, U-bolts are enroute... I'm debating on shackles. Obviously the current 2" lift shackles are a no-go.
First thought was just new OE bits, but I'm concerned about travel. I wheel her pretty hard, and daily drive her on San Antonio streets(which is just as rough, lol). Am I over thinking this, or might I max out the travel of OE shackles? Zero-lift boomerangs, anybody have real world experience with em? Thoughts?
I'd go with a new set of springs, 3" from RE or Zone, I'd steer clear of Rough Country. They're all gonna sit high till they break in and settle. Pick up a few 40lb bags of litter from any parts store, throw em in the back for a couple weeks and drive it. This will keep the height down and speed up the break in.
My question. The Badger sits at 3.5" above stock, but the rear lift was accomplished by the PO by way of AALs, lift shackles & blocks. This is going away now(along with the D35!).
Got the 8.25 ready, got new 3.5" springs, U-bolts are enroute... I'm debating on shackles. Obviously the current 2" lift shackles are a no-go.
First thought was just new OE bits, but I'm concerned about travel. I wheel her pretty hard, and daily drive her on San Antonio streets(which is just as rough, lol). Am I over thinking this, or might I max out the travel of OE shackles? Zero-lift boomerangs, anybody have real world experience with em? Thoughts?
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No lift shackle relocation kit for sure. Then just add in some shackles that work with the relocation box and you are done. Thats what I did at least. I know this ^^^^^^^ guy did the same.
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Originally Posted by TwistedWrench
Perfect, thanks guys.