Basslicks

^^^This... 7" wide is a different ballgame. I believe you'll be fine.

EZEARL

So 15x7's with 4.25"or 4"? Ruined a stock rim and tire when I wrecked so I've got to get a new set of 4. But it'll be a while before I'm ready for them. I've wanted to measure the distance out to flush with the outside of the flare but the vehicles at the shop an hour away. Going there Monday with parts. Maybe from these pics (if it works) you'll be able to see I don't have to come out too far.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/picture/1733293

Forgot to mention that what we do here is once the vehicle passes it's yearly inspection is take off the flares. But for inspection they can't protrude past them.

Basslicks

If you're really concerned with staying within state satutes, go with the 4.25". If you're having a hard time finding 7" wides with 4.25" bs, you should be just fine with the 4"

EZEARL

That'll work. THANKS guys.

cbs_24

Question for my Jeep bros...Since installing my aftermarket bumper w/ 3.5" RE springs has given me a bit of rake and my 33's are rubbing a tad. Should I cheap out and get 3/4" or 1" spring spacers or just buy some 4.5" coils? If so, anybody have a brand recommendation? I've been good with the RE springs, but wouldn't mind trying a different brand if it will get me better results.

salad

In my experience RE's 3.5" coils are fairly stiff. I wouldn't hesitate to throw a little spacer in there.

BenMT

Hello, I'm new here, just bought my first jeep, a 98 xj with a 3" Rough Country lift. I have a clunking sound in the front end on bumps that i believe to be the control arm bushings? Its still got the stock control arms. Can i replace just the bushings, or better off to replace the whole thing? If so, do I need different ones than stock?
Thanks so much,
-Ben

cbs_24

cool. Thanks.

4x4jeepmanthing

hey all. just re geared, and tires. Im looking to glue some hockey pucks together as a temporary bump stomp aide in the front coils. Ive already wheeled without any, and is scuffs a bit. new front and rear stops are in the mail.

FYI bushwacker flats are installed and as so its trimmed obviously.


thanks for the help all!


99 auto RE 3.5 SF, 33 tg Nittos, 4.56

TwistedWrench

Welcome Ben. If it is the control arm bushings, replace the entire arms. They're cheap, and due to the flimsy design, it's a ***** to press out those bushings without damaging those 20yr old arms.

At 3" factory style uppers are fine, but lowers should be upgraded, RC makes a set that'll work great with that lift. Your front upper bushings are in the axle itself, and will have to be pressed out.

uptownbill

SUP

I am between 2 different kits at the moment

Iron Rock premium 3" - http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10796.html
Iron Rock premium 4" - http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10797.html

this will be a DD but wanting some capability for screwing around on weekends.

with the 3" i'd run 31s, with the 4" 32s. My worry is that with the 4" I will need quite a few other items: regearing, SYE, longer brake lines, etc. But I'm also worried that i'll hate myself for not sacking up and getting the 32s. Any advice? Will regearing be required on 32s?

thank you

cbs_24

most people say you'll be fine 32's with stock gearing. I get 17 mpg with my 33's on stock gearing. I would prefer something like 4.10, but it's fine for now.

SatiricalHen

I get 13 if I'm lucky with 33s and 4.56. Haven't seen over 15 as long as I can remember pretty much.

Vettejeep

I would regear for 32's - but I live at high altitude where the engine makes less power. My experience with 33's was regearing was necessary - so if you go to 32's you take the risk of more cost to make the lift work. You could also consider 31's on the 4" lift.

Kevin
My Jeep Cherokee

cbs_24

I was getting close to 12 MPG w/ my roof rack and old commute. Since I've moved to Alaska, I had to ditch the roof rack to ship it up here and have a 100% highway commute. I got 17 MPG from my last tank.

4.56 w/ 33's is definitely not geared to improve gas mileage according to all the charts I've seen.