Basslicks

It is HIGHLY recommended that if you don't get extended brake lines, you AT LEAST relocate the bracket where the hard line meets the rubber line. You can get by with the stock rear line, but you need to do something with the fronts.

SatiricalHen

I personally had enough droop with 3” lift that I was stretching the rear line like a rubber band. The fronts were fine relocated though. I used a yj rear brake line while I was on 3”

Basslicks

Yeah same here. I wouldn't run stock lines on anything over 2"

XJIrish4x4

Good Morning,

So I know I posted this particular thread on the wrong area...ooops dummy me! So I figured I would just start another in the correct area hoping to get more of a response. I recently purchased the RE 4.5" coils to start the build process on my XJ. I will have 2 months before I return home and it will be a slow build over the winter to get ready to wheel hopefully by spring.

So besides the 4.5" RE Coils what is required to use when lifting the entire XJ to level the rear. Some might be different than others but I'm also looking to ask for all the necessary items needed to piece this lift together. I would rather not buy a pre-built kit and allow for some flex on getting better quality parts as I go.

I'm also aware there might be items that I should put on but do I really need them? Of course if I will just put them on few months later down the road then I would much rather do it now. However; I would like to know everything that is required. Like is a long arm upgrade kit required for this particular lift height?

XJIrish4x4

Looking back in this thread I do see that upper/lower control arms is needed right? Assuming adjustable ones are better. But the long arm kit seems to be highly recommended at this lift height but not necessary.

XJIrish4x4

How do the Rusty's LCA and UCA both adjustable compare to the Rubicon Express? Price is cheaper but is the quality better or they about equal?

SatiricalHen

At that height you would be much better off performance wise with a long arm kit. I personally have 4.5 re springs front and rear, 3 link long arm, re1.25” lift shackles, hd offroad no lift shackle relocation boxes, extended brake lines, slip yoke eliminator is a must at this height, re track bar with brace, cav fab steering, steering box brace, 12” travel bilsteins front, 10” travel rear, sway bar disconnects front, removed the sway bar rear, and I have aftermarket front and rear driveshafts since the front was too short and I opted for an aftermarket shaft after I did an sye in the rear. You most likely could use zj front driveshafts front and rear, but I forget what transmission and transfercase option for them has the longer shafts. If you have a dana 35 rear axle I would recommend swapping in another axle at this time. Its a very costly and involved project to do it correctly. Here is how mine sits. The ground it’s parked on is not completely level front to back or side to side, but can give you an idea. The rear is at 5.5” of lift and the front is 4.5”. From the factory, the rear flares are .5” lower than the front.

XJIrish4x4

I was defiantly afraid that someone would chime in and say go long arm!!! Damn that just means more money to be spent. I suppose by the time you piece it all together going long arm may not be a bad option. Would it be better to just buy the long arm LCA's and UCA's and then just piece everything else together? I already have the 4.5" coils from RE so no point in ditching those.

I also had the UCA's and LCA from RE adjustable ones that I may run while I save for the Long arm setup. I believe it will work fine for the time being but to make sure I get the SYE and driveshafts too not just a drop trans case.

You know they say owning a Jeep is like owning a boat huh? Bring on another $1k.....Better to go big or go home though I guess and do it right the first time. I'm not in any hurry to get this done but I do want to enjoy it this coming summer if I can get it all together before then.

What is the best long arm setup out there for the price? Again, is Rusty's equipment good quality stuff? I need to find out if they offer military discount too.

Can I still get the same height level with front at 4.5" if I use the RE 3.5" full leaf kit with drop brackets in the rear? They use that in their kit so I figured it will work without having to go with RE 4.5" full leafs.

SatiricalHen

I had drop brackets and extended shackles in the rear with my 3” pack and the rear end felt really loose since there was so much leverage with the bracket and shackles and all that. The 4.5” pack, shackles and no lift relocation brackets definitely feel better. No matter what you choose you need a combination of shackle, relocators and leafs to get as much travel out of the leafs, you can’t use the stock shackle with relocation boxes typically, and the stock shackle really limits travel. I also drug my rear leafs and brackets when I had the old set up in the rear. They hung really far down. I chose cav fab 3 link long arms. Really good kit, takes a little fiddling to get it adjusted good, but it performs very well now that it’s set up pretty much right. If you’re going long arm I would suggest 3 link over 4 link or radius arms. first picture is the current set up and second is the old set up. You can see how much it hangs down vs how much more clearance I have now.

Ricksxj

I am a newbie owner going through the same headache.
I did come to terms with myself, though.
Believe it or not, I've decided to stick with going 100% stock.
New leafs, coils, shocks and whatever else that needs replacing under there.
Why? At 194,000 miles on the clock, the leafs are flat and I'll bet the coils are sure to be weak. The shocks are wasted, that I know.
235 tires are fine with me, which I have now. (also junk)
It's still a quiet ride with minimal rattles or unwanted noise.
I have no clear clue how much money I'll save by going back to stock but with a 3" lift, I know there are other unseen costs and headaches in there.

Good luck with your lift. Hope to see pictures when you're done.

(Now back I go to the Stock/Unmodified section... )

SatiricalHen

Mine hasn’t been the same since I started modifying it. I can’t remember the last time it was quiet/without vibrations, creaks, or rattles. It’ll still get up to 80-90 but can’t even see anything in the rear view mirrors they shake so bad. I put on 2x6 3/16” rockers and that made a lot of the twisting and creaking go away. When I can afford it I’d like to do frame stiffeners.

XJIrish4x4

With all that money you got dumped into it now I'm very surprised your not already running frame stiffeners. By the way is it my computer connection or what is up with your text? Like this which I see on your responses. " hasn €™t " I know what that means but why is it coming out like that?

So question though can I run the UCA's and LCA's adjustable for now at least until I get the long arm setup? I may not have as much travel as you have with a long arm kit but it won't harm anything correct and the the alignment/castor will still be good to go? Since they are adjustable ones and they are the RE versions I would think it will be fine. RE does not say you need long arm kit when you purchase their Superflex all in one kit so...???

I just want to get it together and then over time I will have no issues upgrading as I see fit.

XJIrish4x4

Oh yea I see what your talking about in the photos now. Okay so go with the 4.5' full leafs in the rear with the shackles and no lift relocation brackets with no drop then correct? Otherwise I can clearly see what you mean where you would hang yourself up on the rear. That would be no good and I don't want that at all.

The no lift relocation brackets do those get welded in?

XJIrish4x4

Yea I will post photos of my setup once I get home. The photo I have now of the rig is crappy quality and I'm deployed right now so can't really get much better ones. I get home in 2 months and then I will start wrenching on it and post a build page I would imagine.

Your right about everything underneath is probably going to be replaced because it is 1989 so most of that is probably original parts all garbage now.

How far is Auburn from Lake Stevens?

Ricksxj

Around 65 miles.