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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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10-13-2017, 09:33 AM
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Those look pretty much stock to me. Depending on where you buy it the lower blue part is called either the Left Inner Tie Rod End or the Tie Rod End at Pitman Arm. The adjustment part is called the Drag Link Coupler or Adjustment Coupler. If you get one just make sure it is the same thread size as the Tie Rod End you get as the ones at the steering knuckles are smaller diameter I believe. Unless the coupler is damaged it should be ok.
10-13-2017, 02:12 PM
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Those look pretty much stock to me. Depending on where you buy it the lower blue part is called either the Left Inner Tie Rod End or the Tie Rod End at Pitman Arm. The adjustment part is called the Drag Link Coupler or Adjustment Coupler. If you get one just make sure it is the same thread size as the Tie Rod End you get as the ones at the steering knuckles are smaller diameter I believe. Unless the coupler is damaged it should be ok.
10-13-2017, 02:19 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyone know the nut size? --- ... just use crescent wrench?
EDIT - I'm gonna need much more Torque! , Better wrench.... Pipe..?
--> Advise?
Last edited by RacerX; 10-13-2017 at 07:04 PM. Reason: More Torque - better wrench??
10-14-2017, 01:56 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
i’ve bought a lifted XJ and it was wrecked from the driver’s side quite drastically. This is my first jeep that is lifted and 4X4 so I don’t know what to do exactly. I repaired the jeep slowly but the one thing I noticed was the drag link(?) is small. I haven’t put the jeep on the road because I fear that this will become loose. It looks like the tie rod is either too short or the drag link (marked in red) is short. The thing that is marked in blue seems to be in bad shape as well. I searched everywhere for answers and I could not find any.
What is circled in red is an adjuster sleeve. As far as if you have too much threads sticking out, you need to be more concerned with how many threads are left on the INSIDE of the sleeve. Snap a picture of that and we can let you know.
Last edited by Basslicks; 10-14-2017 at 01:59 AM.
10-14-2017, 02:01 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
I used a large crescent wrench and a heat gun on the nut. To remove the pitman arm once the nut was off, I used the crayon trick. Take any old wax crayon and melt it along the splines. You'll know you've got wax in the right place when you see it start dripping out from the pitman arm. Once you've done that, a few good whacks with a BFH and it will usually fall off.
10-14-2017, 07:25 AM
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Well you have 2 separate items that you've circled together in blue. The pitman arm (which is attached to your steering gear box) and a tie rod end. The boot on the tie rod end is definitely damaged and leaking grease everywhere. Whether or not the TRE is bad can't always be determined by looking at it... one can ASSUME if there is a lot of mileage on the vehicle and the joints haven't been replaced in a while, that joint would be bad. If you watch under the Jeep while someone else is turning the steering wheel back and forth, you'll be able to see where the slop is in the steering system.
What is circled in red is an adjuster sleeve. As far as if you have too much threads sticking out, you need to be more concerned with how many threads are left on the INSIDE of the sleeve. Snap a picture of that and we can let you know.
What is circled in red is an adjuster sleeve. As far as if you have too much threads sticking out, you need to be more concerned with how many threads are left on the INSIDE of the sleeve. Snap a picture of that and we can let you know.
This is what it would look like comparing it to a stock jeep.. Also, there is barely any thread left inside. Its literally attached to the tip of the rod. It would help a bunch if you can link to parts I need
10-14-2017, 09:11 AM
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
I rebuilt my entire steering and upgraded to the zj tie rod which is much stronger and is a simple bolt on upgrade.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-...-22717/index5/
Post #69 has the full part list, the Duralast parts are good and less expensive, it will replace the rod ends and the couplers and the lower tie rod will be solid steel instead of a thin hollow tube. Probably one of the least expensive and most useful upgrades you can do
For just the parts you have shown there you need:
#DS1238 drag link
#ES3096L short tie rod ends(1 by pitman, )
#ES2079S adjustment sleeves
When setting the upper adjuster, make sure you park with the wheels facing directly forward, remove the old rod end from the pitman arm and the rod end from the opposite side, reinstall the rod end at the opposite side first, thread the adjustment sleeve on a couple turns, just enough to hold it on, then thread in the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm a couple turns, then turn the adjustment sleeve until the rod end will slide into the pitman arm.
For final adjustment, turn the adjustment sleeve until the steering wheel is centered and you are there, then just tighten up the nuts on the adjustment sleeve so it won't move and you are done. Oh and replace the lower tie rod end and steering stabilizer into there proper holes in the draglink.
If just replacing the upper rod end and adjustment sleeve start at the point of putting the sleeve on a couple threads and go from there.
Honestly though, while you are under there might as well replace all the parts and you will be certain you don't have any worn rod ends to possibly cause steering wobble in the future.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-...-22717/index5/
Post #69 has the full part list, the Duralast parts are good and less expensive, it will replace the rod ends and the couplers and the lower tie rod will be solid steel instead of a thin hollow tube. Probably one of the least expensive and most useful upgrades you can do
For just the parts you have shown there you need:
#DS1238 drag link
#ES3096L short tie rod ends(1 by pitman, )
#ES2079S adjustment sleeves
When setting the upper adjuster, make sure you park with the wheels facing directly forward, remove the old rod end from the pitman arm and the rod end from the opposite side, reinstall the rod end at the opposite side first, thread the adjustment sleeve on a couple turns, just enough to hold it on, then thread in the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm a couple turns, then turn the adjustment sleeve until the rod end will slide into the pitman arm.
For final adjustment, turn the adjustment sleeve until the steering wheel is centered and you are there, then just tighten up the nuts on the adjustment sleeve so it won't move and you are done. Oh and replace the lower tie rod end and steering stabilizer into there proper holes in the draglink.
If just replacing the upper rod end and adjustment sleeve start at the point of putting the sleeve on a couple threads and go from there.
Honestly though, while you are under there might as well replace all the parts and you will be certain you don't have any worn rod ends to possibly cause steering wobble in the future.
10-14-2017, 09:46 AM
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I rebuilt my entire steering and upgraded to the zj tie rod which is much stronger and is a simple bolt on upgrade.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-...-22717/index5/
Post #69 has the full part list, the Duralast parts are good and less expensive, it will replace the rod ends and the couplers and the lower tie rod will be solid steel instead of a thin hollow tube. Probably one of the least expensive and most useful upgrades you can do
For just the parts you have shown there you need:
#DS1238 drag link
#ES3096L short tie rod ends(1 by pitman, )
#ES2079S adjustment sleeves
When setting the upper adjuster, make sure you park with the wheels facing directly forward, remove the old rod end from the pitman arm and the rod end from the opposite side, reinstall the rod end at the opposite side first, thread the adjustment sleeve on a couple turns, just enough to hold it on, then thread in the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm a couple turns, then turn the adjustment sleeve until the rod end will slide into the pitman arm.
For final adjustment, turn the adjustment sleeve until the steering wheel is centered and you are there, then just tighten up the nuts on the adjustment sleeve so it won't move and you are done. Oh and replace the lower tie rod end and steering stabilizer into there proper holes in the draglink.
If just replacing the upper rod end and adjustment sleeve start at the point of putting the sleeve on a couple threads and go from there.
Honestly though, while you are under there might as well replace all the parts and you will be certain you don't have any worn rod ends to possibly cause steering wobble in the future.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-...-22717/index5/
Post #69 has the full part list, the Duralast parts are good and less expensive, it will replace the rod ends and the couplers and the lower tie rod will be solid steel instead of a thin hollow tube. Probably one of the least expensive and most useful upgrades you can do
For just the parts you have shown there you need:
#DS1238 drag link
#ES3096L short tie rod ends(1 by pitman, )
#ES2079S adjustment sleeves
When setting the upper adjuster, make sure you park with the wheels facing directly forward, remove the old rod end from the pitman arm and the rod end from the opposite side, reinstall the rod end at the opposite side first, thread the adjustment sleeve on a couple turns, just enough to hold it on, then thread in the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm a couple turns, then turn the adjustment sleeve until the rod end will slide into the pitman arm.
For final adjustment, turn the adjustment sleeve until the steering wheel is centered and you are there, then just tighten up the nuts on the adjustment sleeve so it won't move and you are done. Oh and replace the lower tie rod end and steering stabilizer into there proper holes in the draglink.
If just replacing the upper rod end and adjustment sleeve start at the point of putting the sleeve on a couple threads and go from there.
Honestly though, while you are under there might as well replace all the parts and you will be certain you don't have any worn rod ends to possibly cause steering wobble in the future.
10-14-2017, 03:00 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I used a large crescent wrench and a heat gun on the nut. To remove the pitman arm once the nut was off, I used the crayon trick. Take any old wax crayon and melt it along the splines. You'll know you've got wax in the right place when you see it start dripping out from the pitman arm. Once you've done that, a few good whacks with a BFH and it will usually fall off.
...but: No heat gun, torch, type stuff in Junkyard.
I have a brand new HF pitman srm puller, so ... I expect it to work (unlike the puller I had - slipped off edge)
I guess i just need a pipe for leverage - oh, and to actually bring the trans-fluid/rust breaker spray...
Crayon sounds interesting, but_ no fire
Last edited by RacerX; 10-14-2017 at 10:25 PM.
10-14-2017, 04:46 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
10-14-2017, 10:28 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
LOL ... yeah, I could probably manage to smuggle in a Bic... :-\
I was still thinking torch or electric heat gun... ?
Well I think I found a decent pipe, but it's getting a bit late, maybe tomorrow?
Thanks for the replies Clown & Bass !
I was still thinking torch or electric heat gun... ?
Well I think I found a decent pipe, but it's getting a bit late, maybe tomorrow?
Thanks for the replies Clown & Bass !
10-15-2017, 03:43 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
I rebuilt my entire steering and upgraded to the zj tie rod which is much stronger and is a simple bolt on upgrade.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-...-22717/index5/
Post #69 has the full part list, the Duralast parts are good and less expensive, it will replace the rod ends and the couplers and the lower tie rod will be solid steel instead of a thin hollow tube. Probably one of the least expensive and most useful upgrades you can do
For just the parts you have shown there you need:
#DS1238 drag link
#ES3096L short tie rod ends(1 by pitman, )
#ES2079S adjustment sleeves
When setting the upper adjuster, make sure you park with the wheels facing directly forward, remove the old rod end from the pitman arm and the rod end from the opposite side, reinstall the rod end at the opposite side first, thread the adjustment sleeve on a couple turns, just enough to hold it on, then thread in the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm a couple turns, then turn the adjustment sleeve until the rod end will slide into the pitman arm.
For final adjustment, turn the adjustment sleeve until the steering wheel is centered and you are there, then just tighten up the nuts on the adjustment sleeve so it won't move and you are done. Oh and replace the lower tie rod end and steering stabilizer into there proper holes in the draglink.
If just replacing the upper rod end and adjustment sleeve start at the point of putting the sleeve on a couple threads and go from there.
Honestly though, while you are under there might as well replace all the parts and you will be certain you don't have any worn rod ends to possibly cause steering wobble in the future.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/zj-...-22717/index5/
Post #69 has the full part list, the Duralast parts are good and less expensive, it will replace the rod ends and the couplers and the lower tie rod will be solid steel instead of a thin hollow tube. Probably one of the least expensive and most useful upgrades you can do
For just the parts you have shown there you need:
#DS1238 drag link
#ES3096L short tie rod ends(1 by pitman, )
#ES2079S adjustment sleeves
When setting the upper adjuster, make sure you park with the wheels facing directly forward, remove the old rod end from the pitman arm and the rod end from the opposite side, reinstall the rod end at the opposite side first, thread the adjustment sleeve on a couple turns, just enough to hold it on, then thread in the tie rod end that goes to the pitman arm a couple turns, then turn the adjustment sleeve until the rod end will slide into the pitman arm.
For final adjustment, turn the adjustment sleeve until the steering wheel is centered and you are there, then just tighten up the nuts on the adjustment sleeve so it won't move and you are done. Oh and replace the lower tie rod end and steering stabilizer into there proper holes in the draglink.
If just replacing the upper rod end and adjustment sleeve start at the point of putting the sleeve on a couple threads and go from there.
Honestly though, while you are under there might as well replace all the parts and you will be certain you don't have any worn rod ends to possibly cause steering wobble in the future.
I did the v8 ZJ drag link and tie rod setup in one fell swoop....
Tie Rod End - ES3096L x2
Tie Rod - DS1310 x1
Drag Link - DS1312 x1
Adjuster Sleeve - ES2079S x2
For JUST the tie rod upgrade, it's 1 ES3096L, 1 DS1310, and 1 ES2079S
10-16-2017, 11:26 AM
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
This.... in addition, since it seems you're a little short on that drag link, you may want to consider swapping over to the ZJ drag link setup as well. It's a little longer, so it will take up that "slack".
I did the v8 ZJ drag link and tie rod setup in one fell swoop....
Tie Rod End - ES3096L x2
Tie Rod - DS1310 x1
Drag Link - DS1312 x1
Adjuster Sleeve - ES2079S x2
For JUST the tie rod upgrade, it's 1 ES3096L, 1 DS1310, and 1 ES2079S
Link works fine for me.. try it again, bud.
Any time! May the odds be ever in your favor
I did the v8 ZJ drag link and tie rod setup in one fell swoop....
Tie Rod End - ES3096L x2
Tie Rod - DS1310 x1
Drag Link - DS1312 x1
Adjuster Sleeve - ES2079S x2
For JUST the tie rod upgrade, it's 1 ES3096L, 1 DS1310, and 1 ES2079S
Link works fine for me.. try it again, bud.
Any time! May the odds be ever in your favor
When I did mine I just picked up all the parts and swapped them out in about an hour and a half. I did also have a pickle fork (TRE removal tool) but didn't need it, just unscrewed the castle nuts until they were flush with the end of the TRE bolt and wacked them a couple times with a hammer and they popped right out. Even though the 30 year old steering didn't show signs of slop if looking at it when someone turned the steering wheel, it felt much tighter with all new parts. Just a little play in all the parts adds up to a lot of play in the steering all together.
Ball joints are the only thing I haven't replaced in the front so far and those are next. Everything was original when I bought it a few years ago, first to be replaced were shocks and the U-Joints and wheel bearings, then steering and track bar. 30 years old but only 142K miles when I bought it and pretty much ever part original, I was amazed at how well it had held up over the years, but sitting for 6 years before I got it was not good on the front end. Springs front and rear and bushings are all I really have left.
10-16-2017, 09:12 PM
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Fitting 31s on stock 2000
10-16-2017, 11:38 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by WonderBread