Originally Posted by thatdixierasta

Bought a 98 2WD XJ a couple weeks ago and I had to rebuild the engine but it has been pretty cool other that. I'd like to give it that aggressive look and feel but I don't want a huge lift. I want to go about 1.5inches or 2 inches higher but I also want to improve the ride quality of 20 year old stock suspension. What is the best package for my needs? Or should I buy the pieces to achieve this separately?

Originally Posted by Jon95xj

1995 XJ Spot HO:Putting the RE 4.5 lift on this weekend I got off a wrecked XJ (front lift only) and i haven't had a clear understanding on the temp fixs, (shims and TC lowering kit). my question would be, do you do them together, or just one? if just one, which option would i be better off with? Additional info: Putting 33's, RE 3.5 leaf with 1" boomerang shackles(new). Thanks in advanced for all the help.

Originally Posted by SatiricalHen

Shims aren't a temporary fix, they are used in conjunction with a sye to permanently solve vibrations. Tcase drop is used as a temporary fix, but I do not suggest using one or using one long. They do terrible things to all the mounts and such. Attachment 401992

Originally Posted by Jon95xj

could you use the shims without SYE for a while?

Technically, yes. The purpose of shims is to bring your drivetrain geometry to within a certain spec so as to not put stress/strain on components.

What degree shim should i use for my lift and how necessary are steel shims?

That has to be determined by you. Go to HF or wherever and get yourself a magnetic angle finder. ~ $10. Read/research where & how to take the measurements. Once you have the necessary data you can determine the degree necessary to bring the drive line within spec.

Since steel is stronger it will last longer than aluminum, but, aluminum can be used.

just seems like a lot of money for a metal wedge.

Originally Posted by 4WD4EVER

Yep, but since so few consumers have the ambition or tools required to make their own the division of labor works out well. Pay up! Lol!

p.s. Though I understand the anxiousness to get the job done, Satirical gave you solid advice; it is best to save and get an SYE on there.

Edit: **In case it's not clear, I'm not advocating this method**

Originally Posted by SatiricalHen

Shims without a sye is not correct and shouldn't be used without a sye. They will create driveline vibes since a u-joint accelerates and decelerates as it spins. When the front u joint and rear u joint are at the same angle they cancel out and you get a smooth drive. Double Cardan shafts (what you use with an sye) have 2 joints at the top that cancel out and one at the bottom which is just there for slight upward and downward changes with suspension travel, but should be straight at normal ride height (or actually slightly under so that when you are on the gas it is straight)

Originally Posted by SatiricalHen

Shims without a sye is not correct and shouldn't be used without a sye. They will create driveline vibes since a u-joint accelerates and decelerates as it spins. When the front u joint and rear u joint are at the same angle they cancel out and you get a smooth drive. Double Cardan shafts (what you use with an sye) have 2 joints at the top that cancel out and one at the bottom which is just there for slight upward and downward changes with suspension travel, but should be straight at normal ride height (or actually slightly under so that when you are on the gas it is straight)

Originally Posted by Jon95xj

Thank you and 4wheeleforever for the advise. I will be getting the SYE and drive line in the near-ish future. I might sound like a cheap a$$ for it but I am lol. this is a weekend rig that I'm not looking to put a lot of money into initially. I'm just getting into jeepin and plan on making this a new family tradition. Thank you guys again. I'll be back soon with the next line of question soon I'm sure.

Originally Posted by okcjeeper

As for the kit IMHO if you are doing 5.5" which will likely be more like 6"+ knowing RE you are better off with long arms for over all handling. As for Bilsteins if you can afford it 5150..If not at least get a good mono tube shock. As for saving money I meant save up a little more nad splurge on the long arm kit. My RE 3.5 sits at 4.5", RE kits generally will net more then advertised.

Originally Posted by 87XJDuke

Whats the max tire size you can clear with that kit?

Originally Posted by Jon95xj

Thank you and 4wheeleforever for the advise. I will be getting the SYE and drive line in the near-ish future. I might sound like a cheap a$$ for it but I am lol. this is a weekend rig that I'm not looking to put a lot of money into initially. I'm just getting into jeepin and plan on making this a new family tradition. Thank you guys again. I'll be back soon with the next line of question soon I'm sure.

Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4

Do it right the first time and you will be happier longer! Not doing it right the first time will just find your rig stranded and broke down and then you will be putting much more money into your weekend rig you didn't want to do in the first place.

Originally Posted by Jon95xj

Your wisdom is resonating with me. Which SYE kit or brand would you recommend? Also what drive shaft?

Originally Posted by Jon95xj

Your wisdom is resonating with me. Which SYE kit or brand would you recommend? Also what drive shaft?