Martlor13

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SatiricalHen

If you cut enough you can fit just about any tire at stock height. 31s will not fit without cutting though

Spacers or wheels with more offset will cause wheel bearings and ball joints to go bad faster, but at stock height with fairly small tires it probably won't make a huge difference. If you're spacing 1-2" you definitely want good hubcentric spacers that have their own set of studs and not just the pucks with holes that use the factory studs to mount the tire. Those are dangerous. You want this style
Not this style
Like previously stated they will not make the ride smoother.

Progressive springs with some quality shocks would ride pretty good. I like my bilstein shocks personally.

Airing tires down will greatly improve offroad ride quality and disconnecting the sway bar seems to make the ride smoother to me too. Just be sure if you're going to air down and disconnect you have a way to air back up and reconnect before hitting the road. I personally air down 8-10 psi with smaller tires you could probably get away with 15 psi just fine.

KamDaHam

Hello, i have a 1996 sport xj and i was wondering what are the best wheels and tires to go on a stock lift. I am looking for a good set of tires for daily driving as well as some off road, and the wheels i prefer black just for the look. I'm not looking for anything to big, like where i have to modify the fenders. If someone could help me out that would be amazing, thank you.

Basslicks

1. Not without removing the flares and cutting the fenders.

2. You're better off getting new wheels with 4"-3.5" backspacing. Unless you're completely in love with your factory wheels, there's no benefit to running spacers over aftermarket wheels with proper backspacing for larger tires. You won't have to worry about wheel studs unless your current axles' studs are for steel wheels only (which makes them shorter) and you're changing to aluminum wheels or running spacers. The backspacing of the wheels whether through the design of the wheel or by running spacers will not change the "smoothness" of off-road driving. Aluminum versus steel wheels will help absorb road vibrations and "soften" the harshness of bumps a little.

3. "Cheap" and "smoother ride" don't go together. "Jeep" and "smoother ride" don't really go together either, but if you spend the right money in the right places, you can improve it some. Billstein shocks are a good way to go. I've heard people have good results with Monroe as well, but can't verify that personally. New leaf packs can help ride quality as well. Front coils don't generally wear that quickly and the factory coils have about the best ride quality you're going to get at stock height. The thing to really check is your bushings for all your springs, control arms, and shocks. Also check the coil isolators at the top of the coil springs. When these wear out, a lot of vibration is transferred through the unibody... same with control arm bushings and spring eye bushings.

"Best" is going to come with a lot of subjective answers. What kind of "off road" driving do you do? Light trails through the woods, mud, sand, little bit of rocks and climbs? Need to be a little more specific.

If you're doing mostly daily driving and just getting off the beaten path for the occasional camping, hunting, or fishing adventure, then a set of all terrains will more than likely be just the ticket.

BF Goodrich All-terrains' new model, the KO2, is a GREAT tire. Little pricey, but it has great performance ratings for - well, all terrains. They don't do so well in mud though, so keep that in mind.

I've always thought the Falken Wildpeaks were a good looking tire and the reviews on them are decent as well. I think Maltlor could give the best reco's on tires though since he's an actual tire guy lol.

As far as size goes, 235/75r15 is the largest you can fit without any lift and usually without any trimming. Make sure your bump stops are still in tact though or you can risk putting a tire into the fender.

With the 235s and stock height you have a pretty wide array of options. You could do steel or aluminum. Keeping with a stock wheel would probably be the best option though because it would keep the tires from making contact with the fenders and the 235s shouldn't rub your control arms either. Very few of the factory offerings came black, but there are a plethora of paint tutorials out there to teach you how to paint your wheels whatever color and finish you want.

Here's a few factory wheels I'd recommend...

TJ Canyons - 15x8 5on4.5 Bolt circle pattern w/ 5.5" backspace -



I've ran these on mine with trimmed fanders and 31" tires...





Ravines - 15x8 5on4.5 BCP w/ 5.5" BS



Gamblers - 15x8 5on4.5 BCP w/ 5.5" BS (a personal favorite of mine)



TJ Moabs - 16x8 5on4.5 BCP w/ 5" BS (Keep in mind, you'd have to change tire size to 235/70r16 or similar for a 16" wheel)



For the aftermarket, well... the sky is the limit, but here's what I've ran on mine...

American Racing Baja 15x8 5on4.5 BCP w/ 3.5" BS - and there's a few variations from different manufacturers like ProComp and Black Rock that make them in black.



Pacer D-Windows (American racing and a few other companies make them as well) 15x8 5on4.5 BCP w/ 4" BS

squirtdaddy

I'm in a stock 2WD 98 xj, 4 door. That's her. I do a lot of street driving and highway driving, and have a blown ball joint on my Jeep AND my commuter so you see where I'm coming from. I think it's been like that since I've owned my jeep because I've had 1 comfortable commute out of hundreds and don't have any perspective for comparison. The question is, how comfortable does highway driving get with a 3" lift and 30ish tires? Or should I stay stock for best mileage? Does a good middle-ground exist?

now if we're on the same page on what we consider "really good ride quality", I came up with:
So then tires? Does low pro help? Opinions? I do bikes. I really don't know **** about suspension.

EZEARL

WELCOME to CF.

If your looking for optimum mileage stay stock. A decent set of nonaggressive a/t tires would work for you. Size would depend on whether your trans is an auto or std.

Alex S

I just installed a rough country 3" Lift over the weekend on my Cherokee, it came with all the shocks and springs and I got the kit with all new leaf springs (since my were very sad) also came with control arms and blocks to drop down the sway bar. I haven't installed the control arms yet, but I drove the jeep to work today and now I have driveline vibrations (which seems to be a normal thing when lifting these) but now I have the death wobble, and it feels like it wants to start doing it while decelerating also. I'm thinking I may have reinstalled the sway bar incorrectly, not sure if that helps but it didn't do this before the lift kit. Thanks in advance!

CastorTroy

Trying to figure out my rear suspension. Front has 2" coil spacers installed. The rear springs seem trashed(almost completely flat), but the jeep sits basically level. From these pics can anyone tell what's been done with the rear?

EZEARL

Just a guess but I'd say it's not at 2" of lift. Could be the coil springs are weak so your not getting the lift from the spacers and the leafs have lost their arch some. I see it's got poly bushing in back so there's a chance they may not be OEM springs.

Here's 2" w/OEM flares still on:

SatiricalHen

Possibly an add a leaf. Looks like one has a touch more arch then the rest.

SatiricalHen

There are many things that could be causing the death wobble. Sway bar is not very likely to be the cause. Alignment is very important and could be the cause of the wobble, the track bar could be worn out, bushings could be worn, and more. It's hard to figure out the exact cause. Driveline vibes are common and can be bandaided with a tcase drop, but the only right way to fix would be slip yoke eliminator with appropriate shims.

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Martlor13

an sye of some sorts is essential at that lift height

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Basslicks

Yes