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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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No, I don't lick fish.
You hit him up for money back? Bold lol... any time I've EVER bought anything on CL, FB, or wherever private sale, I've always considered it as-is.... even if the PO is a knuckle-head and I have to fix a billion things (which, I usually do).
I just asked him to cover part of the cost of the repair of the 2 holes he put in the tank and fixing the shock.
Okay guys I got the new steering box installed along with a brand new pitman arm and heim joint for the drag bar. Steering is much tighter but I’m still getting the wobble between 40-50 mph, Iv got an appointment for the alignment shop Wednesday. Hopefully they can get the demons out of this steering setup. Now I’m planning on getting a set of control arm drop brackets here soon. Would that ruin my alignment?
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by larryftmfw
Okay guys I got the new steering box installed along with a brand new pitman arm and heim joint for the drag bar. Steering is much tighter but I’m still getting the wobble between 40-50 mph, Iv got an appointment for the alignment shop Wednesday. Hopefully they can get the demons out of this steering setup. Now I’m planning on getting a set of control arm drop brackets here soon. Would that ruin my alignment?
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14 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay guys I got the new steering box installed along with a brand new pitman arm and heim joint for the drag bar. Steering is much tighter but I’m still getting the wobble between 40-50 mph, Iv got an appointment for the alignment shop Wednesday. Hopefully they can get the demons out of this steering setup. Now I’m planning on getting a set of control arm drop brackets here soon. Would that ruin my alignment?
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just a spin balance to check for wheel true and possible unnoticeable tire separation and round. Always start with where the vehicle makes contact with the road first man...
Seriously.... I'm in that business and I can't count how many times...
Seriously.... I'm in that business and I can't count how many times...
gotcha. It’s hard for me to do stuff like that because I live in an apartment and they have a policy where you can’t wrench in the parking lot (stupid I know). I’ll be sure to see if the alignment shop can check all that. I’m willing to be money the PO just slapped this lift on without ever getting alignment.
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Year: 97
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Engine: 4.0
gotcha. It’s hard for me to do stuff like that because I live in an apartment and they have a policy where you can’t wrench in the parking lot (stupid I know). I’ll be sure to see if the alignment shop can check all that. I’m willing to be money the PO just slapped this lift on without ever getting alignment.
All it takes is one sharp rock to start a de-lamination of a brand new tire... Damn redneck mechanics... lol
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 07-13-2018 at 04:25 PM.
I pointed this out a few days ago. Seriously... the first place to start is "where the rubber meets the road". I saw what you are going through with the PO issues and you very well might have a bent wheel or bad tire because of his ignorant antics.
All it takes is one sharp rock to start a de-lamination of a brand new tire... Damn redneck mechanics... lol
All it takes is one sharp rock to start a de-lamination of a brand new tire... Damn redneck mechanics... lol
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Absolutely... I very well could be wrong, but most times this is what it turns out to be AFTER folks put a grand or more into their suspension. You need to KNOW this is NOT the issue and then work from there.
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Yep... And that is not a cheap fix either. But it would have to be done eventually even after spending a lot of money on other stuff to no avail because it was just a rim or tire. Like I have said many times... Start with where the rubber meets the road, eliminate this possibility, then go from there. I still have no clue why everyone does it completely backwards on here. Start with the "most likely issue" first...
Just because tires are new, or fairly new, doesn't mean they are round. Let alone the wheels.
You have no idea how many brand new tires I have had to make good over the years because they were not round out of the factory...
Just because tires are new, or fairly new, doesn't mean they are round. Let alone the wheels.
You have no idea how many brand new tires I have had to make good over the years because they were not round out of the factory...
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 07-13-2018 at 05:09 PM.
Yep... And that is not a cheap fix either. But it would have to be done eventually even after spending a lot of money on other stuff to no avail because it was just a rim or tire. Like I have said many times... Start with where the rubber meets the road, eliminate this possibility, then go from there. I still have no clue why everyone does it completely backwards on here. Start with the "most likely issue" first...
Just because tires are new, or fairly new, doesn't mean they are round. Let alone the wheels.
You have no idea how many brand new tires I have had to make good over the years because they were not round out of the factory...
Just because tires are new, or fairly new, doesn't mean they are round. Let alone the wheels.
You have no idea how many brand new tires I have had to make good over the years because they were not round out of the factory...