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Hey everyone.
I have been looking into a leveling kit for my 2001 Cherokee. I'm fairly new to modifying Jeeps but I wanted to know if anyone here has gone that route and what your recommendations for kits might be.
Thanks!
I have been looking into a leveling kit for my 2001 Cherokee. I'm fairly new to modifying Jeeps but I wanted to know if anyone here has gone that route and what your recommendations for kits might be.
Thanks!
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dawson Springs, KY
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
If the rear is low and you just want to level it up to stock height, it is probably just that the rear leaf springs are worn out and need to be replaced. Stock height springs can be found by Dorman or Crown at many 4x4 parts shops and I think RockAuto.com Also General Spring in Kansas City makes them and has them online as well. To replace you will also need new bushings and U-Bolts. The U-Bolts are specific to the axle since there are two different axle tube widths. Otherwise there are not many parts involved.
6.5” RC Short Arm Lift
Prob gonna catch hate on the short arm lift, but is it really necessary to install an SYE kit if I do my math and install the shims to correct the driveline angle? It’s a DD and will most likely never see mud, much less a rigorous rocky trail. Will also be installing the CA drop brackets to fix those angles as well. To my understanding, the SYE kit prevents the DS from pulling the yoke from the TC under harsh flex and I’m just wondering if it’s really necessary if it’s never going to be wheeled under such harsh conditions. Obviously if I decide I would like to hit the trails in the future, this will definitely be on the table, but as a DD I tend to baby it. Just looking for some thoughts/opinions.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Prob gonna catch hate on the short arm lift, but is it really necessary to install an SYE kit if I do my math and install the shims to correct the driveline angle? It’s a DD and will most likely never see mud, much less a rigorous rocky trail. Will also be installing the CA drop brackets to fix those angles as well. To my understanding, the SYE kit prevents the DS from pulling the yoke from the TC under harsh flex and I’m just wondering if it’s really necessary if it’s never going to be wheeled under such harsh conditions. Obviously if I decide I would like to hit the trails in the future, this will definitely be on the table, but as a DD I tend to baby it. Just looking for some thoughts/opinions.
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dawson Springs, KY
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
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2 Posts
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Prob gonna catch hate on the short arm lift, but is it really necessary to install an SYE kit if I do my math and install the shims to correct the driveline angle? It’s a DD and will most likely never see mud, much less a rigorous rocky trail. Will also be installing the CA drop brackets to fix those angles as well. To my understanding, the SYE kit prevents the DS from pulling the yoke from the TC under harsh flex and I’m just wondering if it’s really necessary if it’s never going to be wheeled under such harsh conditions. Obviously if I decide I would like to hit the trails in the future, this will definitely be on the table, but as a DD I tend to baby it. Just looking for some thoughts/opinions.
::CF Administrator::
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lantana, Fl
Posts: 34,042
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
My lift dilemma;
New to the XJ community. Just bought an 01’ Sport. Trying to decide on one of the two following configurations,
- 2” w/ 30x9.5r15
- 3” w/30x9.5r15
Here is the deal. This XJ will not only be my daily driver, but a vehicle that I will drive back and forth to Washington DC from Fort Bragg, NC at least monthly. I want to add a good bit of lift to it, but not so much that my ride and gas mileage suffers more than it needs to.
I understand that if I go with the 3”, I will more than likely need to drop the TC. In regard to the ride of the vehicle, what else should I be prepared to add to the current configuration?
If I go with the 2”, will the weight of upgraded steel bumpers (along with the settling of the coils/leafs) cause a drastic reduction in height? I would rather go with the 3” if that is the case.
I am not necessarily tight on money, but enlisted pay is not too hot. Thinking about Rustys 2” or 3” AAL Kits. Not too expensive and seem to be generally liked.
Tires: Trying to decide on BFG ATs or General Grabber AT2s.
Wheels: Either Trailmaster or Cragars. D windows.
How much backspacing would you guys recommend?
Like I said, I am new to the XJ community and lifts in general so most of this is way over my head. I have tried researching all of these things, but it seems like I find different answers everywhere I look. Maybe its because each Jeep reacts differently to being lifted? I have no idea. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Holden
New to the XJ community. Just bought an 01’ Sport. Trying to decide on one of the two following configurations,
- 2” w/ 30x9.5r15
- 3” w/30x9.5r15
Here is the deal. This XJ will not only be my daily driver, but a vehicle that I will drive back and forth to Washington DC from Fort Bragg, NC at least monthly. I want to add a good bit of lift to it, but not so much that my ride and gas mileage suffers more than it needs to.
I understand that if I go with the 3”, I will more than likely need to drop the TC. In regard to the ride of the vehicle, what else should I be prepared to add to the current configuration?
If I go with the 2”, will the weight of upgraded steel bumpers (along with the settling of the coils/leafs) cause a drastic reduction in height? I would rather go with the 3” if that is the case.
I am not necessarily tight on money, but enlisted pay is not too hot. Thinking about Rustys 2” or 3” AAL Kits. Not too expensive and seem to be generally liked.
Tires: Trying to decide on BFG ATs or General Grabber AT2s.
Wheels: Either Trailmaster or Cragars. D windows.
How much backspacing would you guys recommend?
Like I said, I am new to the XJ community and lifts in general so most of this is way over my head. I have tried researching all of these things, but it seems like I find different answers everywhere I look. Maybe its because each Jeep reacts differently to being lifted? I have no idea. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Holden
If you have a little more, than a 3" with some basic 31x10.50r15's will be fine. 31's fit and are not any more than 30x9.50's. You also don't always need a tcase drop. Some do, some don't, but those are cheap as well.
Any more questions, the folks here will be glad to help you out or browse the other sections for upgrade & repair info.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CO
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
this might be a dumb question, but is it safe to drive my jeep with one Upper control arm removed?
im going to replace some bushings and should something go wrong while doing one at a time, i wanted to know if its still driveable with one arm off.
it shouldn't be any different than a 3 link right?
im going to replace some bushings and should something go wrong while doing one at a time, i wanted to know if its still driveable with one arm off.
it shouldn't be any different than a 3 link right?
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: akron, OH
Posts: 51
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: strait 6
time for a new lift kikt
hello everyone, Ive been driving the same darn cherokee for about 15 years and 250,000 miles. it has countless modifications, some good some bad. most things you could break on that car i've broken and replaced several times by now. one thing that hasn't been fully replaced yet is the rear leaf springs although i've added several leafs over the years. its sitting on a 3" rough country lift, and just my 2 cents worth its been a pretty good kit. i beat on my car hard in addition to being a daily driver, its worked well and lasted around 7 years. anyway its time to do the rear springs, shocks, sway bar links and it seems its more economical to do a whole new lift which would include upper and lower control arms etc. here are my questions, whats your favorite brand for a lift? best for the money? anyone gone from a 3' to a 4.5'? did it add any bugs to the system? i was told when i did the 3" i didnt need to do a transfer case drop but i had some vibrations so i went ahead and dropped it 1" i think. anything else necessary from a driveline standpoint? i'm looking to spend around 1,000.
thanks,
thanks,
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dawson Springs, KY
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: PENNSYLVANIA
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
XJ Lift Mistakes
Fellow Cherokee lovers. I have a 2001 XJ Sport. First owner, love it. It was my Wife's daily driver. I've done most of the maintenance work on it over the years, I find that sort of stuff enjoyable. Upgraded my Wife to a shiny new vehicle and took the XJ for myself. I got the better deal. I've been looking to do some suspension upgrading to it. Here is my criteria:
- Plan on keeping this vehicle the next 20 or 30 years - it's clean
- Daily driver, up to 90mph on highways at least twice a week
- Willing to pay more for quality parts - I understand you get what you pay for - quality over quantity is my mindset
- Looking to gain some clearance and increased tire size for light trail and overland use, without sacrificing handling even at highway speeds - no more than 3", based on what I had been reading
- I am an avid hiker and explorer, not really looking to do 4 wheeling or rock climbing. No plans to do so or enter any contests.
- The load in the rear would be perhaps another 100 pounds or so of gear
- Looking to add a roof rack for other hiking gear
- Want to place a rear tire carrier for the spare
- If modifications cannot be done without reducing ride and handling quality, or will shorten the life of the vehicle, then I'd rather pass
Being the suspension, and me not being an engineer or expert, I went to a reputable shop for their expertise and years of doing this work. I explained my requirements and explained I needed advice on how to achieve what I was looking for. I did research. However, the information out there is all over the place. I went with what the shop suggested. This is what was suggested: 31" Tires with a Rough Country Premium N3 3" lift and long control arm upgrade. I went over my requirements again to confirm and we scheduled the work to be done. I was told that the ride and handling quality would be excellent, better than stock. I asked again, even at highway speeds? I was assured that would be the case.
I've had it in and out of the same shop a few times since. The ride is not better than stock, it's more than squirrelly. At first the alignment was a mess and there was some decent bump steer. There was explanation about the crown in the road and not holding the wheel too tight. After bringing it back again, it was determined that the new dropped pitman arm was messing with the geometry, so a stock arm was placed back on. The bump steer is better. However, it still rides like crap. It handles like the toe is out. There is a groaning from the suspension for the first 50 yards or so. Dangerous on the highway. Just waiting for the wobble.
So, it happens. It used to handle and ride tight and precise. Sounds like I allowed poor quality components to be installed on my XJ. Ok, need to correct things. Allot of what I have read indicates that RC is a crap lift. Not in line with when I said I'd rather pay more for higher quality. With the new 31" tires, 3" lift is about where I'll need to be. Any guidance from the wise and already been there of the group?
Transfer case has been dropped
SYE/CV Driveshaft done
OME steering stabilizer in place
I'm considering BDS or OME. OME sounds right about where I wanted to be. However, it appears somewhat elusive compared to BDS. Open to the suggestions and experience.
- Plan on keeping this vehicle the next 20 or 30 years - it's clean
- Daily driver, up to 90mph on highways at least twice a week
- Willing to pay more for quality parts - I understand you get what you pay for - quality over quantity is my mindset
- Looking to gain some clearance and increased tire size for light trail and overland use, without sacrificing handling even at highway speeds - no more than 3", based on what I had been reading
- I am an avid hiker and explorer, not really looking to do 4 wheeling or rock climbing. No plans to do so or enter any contests.
- The load in the rear would be perhaps another 100 pounds or so of gear
- Looking to add a roof rack for other hiking gear
- Want to place a rear tire carrier for the spare
- If modifications cannot be done without reducing ride and handling quality, or will shorten the life of the vehicle, then I'd rather pass
Being the suspension, and me not being an engineer or expert, I went to a reputable shop for their expertise and years of doing this work. I explained my requirements and explained I needed advice on how to achieve what I was looking for. I did research. However, the information out there is all over the place. I went with what the shop suggested. This is what was suggested: 31" Tires with a Rough Country Premium N3 3" lift and long control arm upgrade. I went over my requirements again to confirm and we scheduled the work to be done. I was told that the ride and handling quality would be excellent, better than stock. I asked again, even at highway speeds? I was assured that would be the case.
I've had it in and out of the same shop a few times since. The ride is not better than stock, it's more than squirrelly. At first the alignment was a mess and there was some decent bump steer. There was explanation about the crown in the road and not holding the wheel too tight. After bringing it back again, it was determined that the new dropped pitman arm was messing with the geometry, so a stock arm was placed back on. The bump steer is better. However, it still rides like crap. It handles like the toe is out. There is a groaning from the suspension for the first 50 yards or so. Dangerous on the highway. Just waiting for the wobble.
So, it happens. It used to handle and ride tight and precise. Sounds like I allowed poor quality components to be installed on my XJ. Ok, need to correct things. Allot of what I have read indicates that RC is a crap lift. Not in line with when I said I'd rather pay more for higher quality. With the new 31" tires, 3" lift is about where I'll need to be. Any guidance from the wise and already been there of the group?
Transfer case has been dropped
SYE/CV Driveshaft done
OME steering stabilizer in place
I'm considering BDS or OME. OME sounds right about where I wanted to be. However, it appears somewhat elusive compared to BDS. Open to the suggestions and experience.
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: CT
Posts: 10
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Hi yall, just picked up 2000 Sport that I plan to lift 4.5 inches and fit 33s. My question is will I need wheel spacers? It'll be 33x12.50R15 the rims will 15x8 with 3.75 of backspacing. Thanks!
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
No need for spacers (and I don't recommend them with that much BS on the wheels), but I recommend tubular Lower Control Arms to minimize the negative effects of your tires rubbing them on sharp turns
No, I don't lick fish.