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Trying to decide between the RC 4.5" long arm kit and the IRO 4" rock link kit. Anyone have any recommendations? Trying to save money where I can but I have heard mixed results about RC stuff. It's for my weekend rig and hoping to squeeze 35's with the fenders cut and the rear quarters cut and folded
Trying to decide between the RC 4.5" long arm kit and the IRO 4" rock link kit. Anyone have any recommendations? Trying to save money where I can but I have heard mixed results about RC stuff. It's for my weekend rig and hoping to squeeze 35's with the fenders cut and the rear quarters cut and folded
If you use bump stops properly a 4" would be ok with 35s. Most people will tell you to upgrade to stronger axles and higher gear ratios at that point, but it's more than possible. I have a 4" lift and 32s, I put my wife's old 33s on (and probably should have left them on) and they cleared just fine. I put her 35s on and still had quite a bit of flex before hitting the fenders. I'm trying to do whatever I can to keep my fenders and quarters intact though, so my end goal is slightly different than yours.
I got a 1988 Jeep Cherokee limited edition from my grandmother and got sum 35 in tires so I’m ready to get a lift kit over heard the 4.5 would work just takes a lot of work trimming and stuff when I buy the lift I have to purchase 2 right as for the front and the back??
I got a 1988 Jeep Cherokee limited edition from my grandmother and got sum 35 in tires so I’m ready to get a lift kit over heard the 4.5 would work just takes a lot of work trimming and stuff when I buy the lift I have to purchase 2 right as for the front and the back??
My 4.5" RC kit and 35s got here yesterday so I'll let you know how it fits, expecting to have to do a decent bit of trimming and bump stopping to get it right. Not sure what exactly you mean by having to buy 2 lift kits?
My 4.5" RC kit and 35s got here yesterday so I'll let you know how it fits, expecting to have to do a decent bit of trimming and bump stopping to get it right. Not sure what exactly you mean by having to buy 2 lift kits?
I didn’t know if it came with a complete setup for front and back but I found out it does n yeah plz let me know how it turns out
4.5" no trimming
4.5" cut and fold front and rear to the little lip
And I think this is after I put the 5.5" coils in the front
So 4.5-5.5ish" of lift and 35s and I wheel it all the time no problem. Just have to bumpstop
It'll go more than that, but I was just messing around and couldn't see the ramp anymore and didn't want to drive off the side.
4.5" no trimming Attachment 404744
4.5" cut and fold front and rear to the little lipAttachment 404743
And I think this is after I put the 5.5" coils in the front Attachment 404745
So 4.5-5.5ish" of lift and 35s and I wheel it all the time no problem. Just have to bumpstop Attachment 404746 Attachment 404747
It'll go more than that, but I was just messing around and couldn't see the ramp anymore and didn't want to drive off the side.
looks sick I can’t wait til I can start my project
4.5" cut and fold front and rear to the little lipAttachment 404743
.
Nice job trimming. Did you use a cut off wheel? I'm debating cutting mine after seeing so many uneven hack jobs. My 33s barely clear the front when turning with 5.5" of lift.
Last edited by TheBoogieman; 04-13-2020 at 08:40 AM.
Nice job trimming. Did you use a cut off wheel? I'm debating cutting mine after seeing so many uneven hack jobs. My 33s barely clear the front when turning with 5.5" of lift.
Cut the small lip off (like 1/4 in or whatever it is) then cut slots perpendicular to the flare line them use a combination of pliers and a hammer to bend it over and finished it off with a little paint. Make sure you cut and fold the rear or you'll cut open the rear quarters and make a mess and in the front I used the cut and fold method to keep more strength in the fenders.
I didn’t know if it came with a complete setup for front and back but I found out it does n yeah plz let me know how it turns out
Just finished the install today. The front fenders need some decent trimming, at least to the end of the lip thats left after you take the flare off. The rear is fine for the street but would need to be cut and folded for offroading if you wanted to get any kind of decent travel out of it. Also Definitely budget for an SYE and a new driveshaft, I was hoping I could get away with doing the kit without one and there is absolutely no way that's happening
Also Definitely budget for an SYE and a new driveshaft, I was hoping I could get away with doing the kit without one and there is absolutely no way that's happening
Why? My driveshaft angles are good with 5.5" of lift. I used the 1" t-case drop and 1/2" shims.
Last edited by TheBoogieman; 04-21-2020 at 11:47 PM.
Why? My driveshaft angles are good with 5.5" of lift. I used the 1" t-case drop and 1/2" shims.
Yea it looks like shims might be the easier and cheaper option, ordered some 4 degree shims gonna see if that solves it before I go through the effort of an sye
To still need SYE to keep from puking out the shaft, it can happen on a bone stock XJ in the right situation
Anything CAN happen. My 18 Jeeps (and many others for friends) that I lifted myself over many years tells me it's rare. I've never known anyone to do that with a properly set-up Jeep. I did do a sye on one of them. My old 05' TJ had 5.5" of lift, as does my current XJ.
Last edited by TheBoogieman; 04-22-2020 at 09:45 AM.
looking at boogie man's photo his driveshaft angles are not correct for the style driveshaft he has. Also, why lose an inch of ground clearance and add stress to mounts by putting a tcase drop on? Lose an inch of clearance at the lowest hanging part of the belly right where you're most likely to high center? What am I supposed to do with my long arm crossmember? I can't drop that an inch. I've broken many driveshafts wheeling. I carry a single spare that fits front and rear. Couldn't do that without the SYE. There are many benefits to an SYE and transfer case drops should only be viewed as a temporary solution in my opinion.
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
looking at boogie man's photo his driveshaft angles are not correct for the style driveshaft he has. Also, why lose an inch of ground clearance and add stress to mounts by putting a tcase drop on? Lose an inch of clearance at the lowest hanging part of the belly right where you're most likely to high center? What am I supposed to do with my long arm crossmember? I can't drop that an inch. I've broken many driveshafts wheeling. I carry a single spare that fits front and rear. Couldn't do that without the SYE. There are many benefits to an SYE and transfer case drops should only be viewed as a temporary solution in my opinion.