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CF Veteran
I replace the good used spares in our vehicles after they reach 6yrs of age.
https://www.tireamerica.com/resource/tire-date-code
https://www.tireamerica.com/resource/tire-date-code
Transmission tilt!
I have a 99 xj that I just put a 4.5 in rough country lift on and now my shifter sits father back. The issue I’m having is now when I shift into 2,4 and reverse I hit my center console. Any ideas on how to fix this??
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: KY
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm not finding exactly what I'm looking for in answers...
I have a stock 98 XJ, I want to lift but I don't want to break the bank in needing long-arms, drive shafts, etc; I want to fit 30-31's if possible with the factory silver 5-point wheels.
The meat of it is, I need new shocks and tires all around and possibly new rear springs; all of that, I might as well add a small lift while I'm under it anyways.
1. I need to know, using a kit or not, how high can I get without needing to shim the control arms for driveline geometry WITH a t-case drop?
2. How high can I get WITHOUT needing to drop the T-Case?
3. How high do I need to go to get 31's without rubbing?
-- LOL, I know, all over the place, right?
I plan on bracing my steering with KOR and upgrading my trackbar to adjustable JKS - in the FAR future, I plan on getting in the 4.5-5.5" mark with some long-arms, I just don't have the capital to float that project at this time... thought having just a bit of a lift may keep me pacified for the long-term.
It's a DD that doesn't get many miles on it - I work from home (before covid); I plan to do some mild-medium off-road with it as well.
I have a stock 98 XJ, I want to lift but I don't want to break the bank in needing long-arms, drive shafts, etc; I want to fit 30-31's if possible with the factory silver 5-point wheels.
The meat of it is, I need new shocks and tires all around and possibly new rear springs; all of that, I might as well add a small lift while I'm under it anyways.
1. I need to know, using a kit or not, how high can I get without needing to shim the control arms for driveline geometry WITH a t-case drop?
2. How high can I get WITHOUT needing to drop the T-Case?
3. How high do I need to go to get 31's without rubbing?
-- LOL, I know, all over the place, right?
I plan on bracing my steering with KOR and upgrading my trackbar to adjustable JKS - in the FAR future, I plan on getting in the 4.5-5.5" mark with some long-arms, I just don't have the capital to float that project at this time... thought having just a bit of a lift may keep me pacified for the long-term.
It's a DD that doesn't get many miles on it - I work from home (before covid); I plan to do some mild-medium off-road with it as well.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 341
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Year: 1999 classic
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6
Do you want to keep your stock flares? 2 “ you’ll start getting rear driveshaft vibrations. IMO to do 3” for 31’s and keep your flares will cost more than your saying you want to spend at this point. Personally I don’t what tire size is possible by cutting fenders. Plenty of threads and people with experience in that area.
cheap and effective for trail use might be new replacement rear springs. Level the front with a small spacer if needed. Shocks and a aggressive 30” tire.
cheap and effective for trail use might be new replacement rear springs. Level the front with a small spacer if needed. Shocks and a aggressive 30” tire.
CF Veteran
I'm not finding exactly what I'm looking for in answers...
I have a stock 98 XJ, I want to lift but I don't want to break the bank in needing long-arms, drive shafts, etc; I want to fit 30-31's if possible with the factory silver 5-point wheels.
The meat of it is, I need new shocks and tires all around and possibly new rear springs; all of that, I might as well add a small lift while I'm under it anyways.
1. I need to know, using a kit or not, how high can I get without needing to shim the control arms for driveline geometry WITH a t-case drop?
2. How high can I get WITHOUT needing to drop the T-Case?
3. How high do I need to go to get 31's without rubbing?
-- LOL, I know, all over the place, right?
I plan on bracing my steering with KOR and upgrading my trackbar to adjustable JKS - in the FAR future, I plan on getting in the 4.5-5.5" mark with some long-arms, I just don't have the capital to float that project at this time... thought having just a bit of a lift may keep me pacified for the long-term.
It's a DD that doesn't get many miles on it - I work from home (before covid); I plan to do some mild-medium off-road with it as well.
I have a stock 98 XJ, I want to lift but I don't want to break the bank in needing long-arms, drive shafts, etc; I want to fit 30-31's if possible with the factory silver 5-point wheels.
The meat of it is, I need new shocks and tires all around and possibly new rear springs; all of that, I might as well add a small lift while I'm under it anyways.
1. I need to know, using a kit or not, how high can I get without needing to shim the control arms for driveline geometry WITH a t-case drop?
2. How high can I get WITHOUT needing to drop the T-Case?
3. How high do I need to go to get 31's without rubbing?
-- LOL, I know, all over the place, right?
I plan on bracing my steering with KOR and upgrading my trackbar to adjustable JKS - in the FAR future, I plan on getting in the 4.5-5.5" mark with some long-arms, I just don't have the capital to float that project at this time... thought having just a bit of a lift may keep me pacified for the long-term.
It's a DD that doesn't get many miles on it - I work from home (before covid); I plan to do some mild-medium off-road with it as well.
Seasoned Member
I'm not finding exactly what I'm looking for in answers...
I have a stock 98 XJ, I want to lift but I don't want to break the bank in needing long-arms, drive shafts, etc; I want to fit 30-31's if possible with the factory silver 5-point wheels.
The meat of it is, I need new shocks and tires all around and possibly new rear springs; all of that, I might as well add a small lift while I'm under it anyways.
1. I need to know, using a kit or not, how high can I get without needing to shim the control arms for driveline geometry WITH a t-case drop?
2. How high can I get WITHOUT needing to drop the T-Case?
3. How high do I need to go to get 31's without rubbing?
-- LOL, I know, all over the place, right?
I plan on bracing my steering with KOR and upgrading my trackbar to adjustable JKS - in the FAR future, I plan on getting in the 4.5-5.5" mark with some long-arms, I just don't have the capital to float that project at this time... thought having just a bit of a lift may keep me pacified for the long-term.
It's a DD that doesn't get many miles on it - I work from home (before covid); I plan to do some mild-medium off-road with it as well.
I have a stock 98 XJ, I want to lift but I don't want to break the bank in needing long-arms, drive shafts, etc; I want to fit 30-31's if possible with the factory silver 5-point wheels.
The meat of it is, I need new shocks and tires all around and possibly new rear springs; all of that, I might as well add a small lift while I'm under it anyways.
1. I need to know, using a kit or not, how high can I get without needing to shim the control arms for driveline geometry WITH a t-case drop?
2. How high can I get WITHOUT needing to drop the T-Case?
3. How high do I need to go to get 31's without rubbing?
-- LOL, I know, all over the place, right?
I plan on bracing my steering with KOR and upgrading my trackbar to adjustable JKS - in the FAR future, I plan on getting in the 4.5-5.5" mark with some long-arms, I just don't have the capital to float that project at this time... thought having just a bit of a lift may keep me pacified for the long-term.
It's a DD that doesn't get many miles on it - I work from home (before covid); I plan to do some mild-medium off-road with it as well.
Zone 3" full rear springs ,front coils, shocks. Under $520 (the one I have on mine)
- Front coil springs designed to give a full 3" of lift while maintaining an O.E. style ride
- No bump stops are included because our springs are designed for extreme travel.
- Replacement Rear Leaf Springs that will ride great and replace the tired factory XJ springs.
- New rear U-bolts are included with high nuts and washers
- New front and rear shocks are included that are valved specifically for your XJ
Zone 4.5 $498 & 740 w/full rear springs, https://liftkits4less.com/zone-offro...r-leaf-springs
- Front coil springs designed to give a full 4.5" of lift while maintaining an factory style ride
- Only 2" bump stop extensions are included because our springs are designed for extreme travel.
- A transfer case drop is included to correct the driveline angle while maintaining as much ground clearance as possible.
- New extended sway bar links are supplied with urethane mounts for long term performance
- Front and Rear brake line relocation brackets are included.
- Front lower control arms are included that include factory like rubber bushings
- Long, thin add-a-leafs for the rear that offer a smooth ride as well as hold up over time
- New rear U-bolts are included with high nuts and washers
- Extended length shackles are also supplied for the rear to allow your springs to really flex!
- New front and rear shocks are included that are valved specifically for your XJ
The following users liked this post:
Anthony Ennis (10-19-2020)
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If I go 2" OME with 30x9.5x15 on stock ecco rims, will I rub?
Although, the zone kit with t-case drop and adjustable LCAs is enticing - but I'd also need to replace rims with the tires... I doubt 31x11.5 will work on the stock rims without rubbing on junk
Thoughts??
Although, the zone kit with t-case drop and adjustable LCAs is enticing - but I'd also need to replace rims with the tires... I doubt 31x11.5 will work on the stock rims without rubbing on junk
Thoughts??
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 341
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Year: 1999 classic
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6
As for your first question. You’d be fine with that set up. No it won’t rub. It may need a 3/4” t case drop. You’ll know when you drive it. I think ARB/Ome may recommend it. They work well but aren’t great for your motor mounts.
Now at 4.5” you’d never get away with just a 1 inch t case drop. 4.5” needs a sye and driveshaft. Those lower control arms are fixed and not adjustable. Just pointing that out.
Up to a 10.5” width tire will fit on your stock rims.
Most kits are very deceiving and very incomplete( trac bar,upper and lower adjustables,brake lines)unless you go with something from a company like Clayton or Metal Cloak. There are other good companies to.You can always piece together the set up you want. Of coarse this is only my opinion.
I don’t think you can go wrong with OME and it would work well for what your describing. Hope this helps
Now at 4.5” you’d never get away with just a 1 inch t case drop. 4.5” needs a sye and driveshaft. Those lower control arms are fixed and not adjustable. Just pointing that out.
Up to a 10.5” width tire will fit on your stock rims.
Most kits are very deceiving and very incomplete( trac bar,upper and lower adjustables,brake lines)unless you go with something from a company like Clayton or Metal Cloak. There are other good companies to.You can always piece together the set up you want. Of coarse this is only my opinion.
I don’t think you can go wrong with OME and it would work well for what your describing. Hope this helps
Last edited by Sirsyc0; 10-19-2020 at 01:00 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Sirsyc0:
Anthony Ennis (10-19-2020),
B-Dick (12-14-2020)
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: KY
Posts: 3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
As for your first question. You’d be fine with that set up. No it won’t rub. It may need a 3/4” t case drop. You’ll know when you drive it. I think ARB/Ome may recommend it. They work well but aren’t great for your motor mounts.
Now at 4.5” you’d never get away with just a 1 inch t case drop. 4.5” needs a sye and driveshaft. Those lower control arms are fixed and not adjustable. Just pointing that out.
Up to a 10.5” width tire will fit on your stock rims.
Most kits are very deceiving and very incomplete( trac bar,upper and lower adjustables,brake lines)unless you go with something from a company like Clayton or Metal Cloak. There are other good companies to.You can always piece together the set up you want. Of coarse this is only my opinion.
I don’t think you can go wrong with OME and it would work well for what your describing. Hope this helps
Now at 4.5” you’d never get away with just a 1 inch t case drop. 4.5” needs a sye and driveshaft. Those lower control arms are fixed and not adjustable. Just pointing that out.
Up to a 10.5” width tire will fit on your stock rims.
Most kits are very deceiving and very incomplete( trac bar,upper and lower adjustables,brake lines)unless you go with something from a company like Clayton or Metal Cloak. There are other good companies to.You can always piece together the set up you want. Of coarse this is only my opinion.
I don’t think you can go wrong with OME and it would work well for what your describing. Hope this helps
If I got less then 4" then I want to do it right and best, I figured ome was one of the best/safest options. I've been burned before with a "kit" that did nothing but cause issues because it wasn't as complete as the advertised, however, that was on a WJ.
If I go 2" OME, then I'll get longer brake lines, rear and front springs, shocks (rocky road), ubolts, t case drop, and adjustable track bar - what am I missing?
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 341
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Year: 1999 classic
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6
You may not need brake lines with 2”. You can reposition things to get a little extra length.OME may send brake line brackets if needed. Not sure on that. IMO a trac bar at 2” is a good idea. I don’t like the idea of drilling another hole in the trac bar bracket. Rustys makes an affordable,good quality 2” trac bar. I’ve used one of theirs and had no problems. The only other things you may want to look into are lengthened bumpstops front and rear, and some kind of sway bar disconnects. All depends on how you’ll be using your XJ.
Since your going with OME, why not give ARB a call and see what they recommend as far as a transfer case drop and brake lines.They are super helpful with great customer service.
Since your going with OME, why not give ARB a call and see what they recommend as far as a transfer case drop and brake lines.They are super helpful with great customer service.
Last edited by Sirsyc0; 10-19-2020 at 12:26 PM.
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Anthony Ennis (10-19-2020)
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl 4.0 Liter
3 inch lift need longer Track Bar?
Doing that RC 3" lift right now. Has anyone else had Track bar fit problem from this lift? It seems too short now. Only 1/4 or 1/2 inch too short? Do I need to go buy an adjustable track bar?
Otherwise Rough Country 3" Lift kit looks really nice. Big heavy duty coils for the front! Kit was $279
Otherwise Rough Country 3" Lift kit looks really nice. Big heavy duty coils for the front! Kit was $279
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 341
Received 103 Likes
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86 Posts
Year: 1999 classic
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6
Doing that RC 3" lift right now. Has anyone else had Track bar fit problem from this lift? It seems too short now. Only 1/4 or 1/2 inch too short? Do I need to go buy an adjustable track bar?
Otherwise Rough Country 3" Lift kit looks really nice. Big heavy duty coils for the front! Kit was $279
Otherwise Rough Country 3" Lift kit looks really nice. Big heavy duty coils for the front! Kit was $279
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Location: AZ
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl 4.0 Liter
Thank You "Sirsyc0" for the reply. I wasted a couple hours today trying to put the old track bar back on after the 3 inch lift. No luck, so going to order adjustable track bar.