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I asked him again to clarify. Basically, he’s saying that when one does an SYE and shims the axles, it throws the factory shock mounts out of phase (not parallel to the ground), so he cuts them off and welds new ones on from JKS, and those new ones sit differently, necessitating shorter-travel shocks. It makes sense to me. I’m guessing that’s a step not many guys are taking after shimming?
That is all new information, and clarifies things a lot.
I don't think very many people shim after an SYE and drive shaft upgrade on just a 3.5" lift. I've only seen shimming on a 4.5 or bigger lift. I might be wrong, but I don't think a 3.5" would require that.
I can see where he's coming from. Picture where the shock mounts on the axle would end up in the upper illustration compared to where they would be on the lower one which is how a stock Cherokee XJ is:
I asked him again to clarify. Basically, he’s saying that when one does an SYE and shims the axles, it throws the factory shock mounts out of phase (not parallel to the ground), so he cuts them off and welds new ones on from JKS, and those new ones sit differently, necessitating shorter-travel shocks. It makes sense to me. I’m guessing that’s a step not many guys are taking after shimming?
Should you re-do the shock mounts after shimming? yeah, if you want to be **** about it. But I have 7* shims in mine and the stock mounts work ok. 3 years now with no issues. That said, relocating them is on my list. And then I can mount them closer to the axle for better ground clearance.
I want to come out and admit I own a stock '99 2.5l/5 speed 2 Door 2WD XJ. I bought it with a blown head gasket, with a clean no rust body, cold ac and a good interior for $600. It was set-up as a tow behind and fits nicely behind my '99 Class A. It just looks so sad without a lift and tires.
I rebuilt the engine, replaced the coolant system and have gone through it mechanically. I am on the third oil change and getting excellent mileage. This vehicle is my daily driver and commutes 90 miles round trip daily and a 5 hour commute home on weekends.
My end result is to swap in a 4.0 and 4wd but want to add a lift and tires first. So here is my question, I want to build this XJ as an overland vehicle with a low COG lift and plan to run 30 or 31 inch tires. What type of lift is best? Also will it work on my 2WD setup and still be usable when I swap to 4wd
I am leaning toward OME or Rusty's but want to purchase a complete engineered kit, not make the change then find out I need to do something else to make it work right.
Can someone please provide their opinion on what works best for my application and why?
Thanks
Has anyone heard of Milestar Tires? A friend sent me a link for a company in town that will mount and balance mud terrains on my ride for $540. Seems like a deal. My concerns are these: are they really loud on the street (I do drive it for work from time to time)? What is their load range? I don't want them to be too heavy. Also, I'm moving towards expedition trail driving and away from rock crawling. A set of Bfg A/T's are what I was shopping for. Any recommendations?
love em on my taco , but I'm not real sensitive bout noise/ride/gas milage
love em on my taco , but I'm not real sensitive bout noise/ride/gas milage
I have them on my truck too:
They are really good off road, and OK on surface streets. Not super loud either, but I wouldn't put them on a daily driver. They are pretty vague with on road feel and don't like damp streets.
Milestar does have an A/T tire as well, you don't have to get the Patagonia M/T tires if most of your driving is dirt trails and highways. Those are much quieter/lighter/cheaper than the M/T version.
Looking at IRO lift to clear 31's 3-3.5", either way I'm going with new control arms and a full leaf pack . What's the consensus for a low lift, long or short arms ?
I won’t get into the long arm or short arm debate. I will say I’d think you’d be happier in the end pieciing things together than relying on a kit. Research each component. It will be more expensive but you’ll end up with exactly what you want with no compromises anywhere. Look at front spring rates, double shear trac bar setups, upper and lowers with quality long lasting joints, sway bar disconnects, shocks and how do you really want to address rear driveshaft angles. IMO the parts I put on my XJ and forget they’re even installed is money well spent. Take your time and goodluck!
Long arms for only 3" of lift do not give you as much benefit as when you go taller, but cost a lot more. If anything I would get Metal cloak's upper and lower control arms, They have a TON of flex, and ride smooth. They are just $$$. (though not as much as long arms).
Anyone have experience with the Rusty's three piece cross member? My trans won't drop low enough to be bolted in and i can't figure out what is binding it up.
Hey guys. I'm fairly new here. I my 2020 Cherokee will be one year old next month. I would not say I am mechanic savvy at all, although I did do a good bit of work on my 87 300zx myself at times but that has been a while back. So, during this year of ownership, I have taken it to the forest to go hiking and at times have to drive down dirt/gravel roads that, when wet, send the Jeep sliding around. Before this I had an Escape with what I believe were 32 all terrain tires. Those never had a problem and I have come to the realization that I need to make the change on this. So, obviously I need a lift kit. My question for you guys is, what kind of kit and tires would you suggest for someone who does a lot of highway/interstate driving and occasionally goes off-road? I basically don't want to go too overboard and do something that will substantially lower mpg to get better driving for only an occasional outing, but also want to make sure that when that outing happens, I have something that can handle like you think a "Jeep" would in that situation.
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
