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Hey Guys,
I'm replacing my ball joints. I have a 4" lift. Should I use stock Spicer ball joints or the offset ball joints ( Seen here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ll+joint,10070) for modified suspensions?
I have a few novice questions, and can post more pics in a little bit if needed. I have never owned a lifted vehicle, and just want to run some things across.
I have a 97 bone stock RWD 4.0 Sport pavement dedicated DD. I just did a 3" RC lift kit with full leaf springs, new shocks, replaced sway bar links, and new stock spec shackles, to accommodate the 2020 Wrangler take offs I got, which are 255-70r18 (32").
-When going over 35, when I let off the gas, theres almost a low grunt noise coming from behind the transmission. Drive shaft? Anything I should do with this? This is my biggest concern. I've read about SYE and such, but none of that seems like it is needed with just 3"?
-Suspension sounds knocky or clanky. Normal sounds for brand new parts? I am pretty sure the long AF Ubolts could be hitting the rear sway bar links.
-I cut the rear of the fender to eliminate tire rub, which was minimal, as well as the front bumper corners. I want to keep it as stock looking as possible. Pics are of rough cuts, and I haven't done any finishing yet, until I drive it a few more days to make sure everything clears. So far, so good. Anything you would alter?
For the noise on deceleration, it’s either pinion noise or u joints. Your running your u joints at different angles now so I would replace them in any case. While the drive shaft is out, lubricate the slip yoke. As far as those shims I’m not so sure you need them. You should be able to get away with dropping the cross member a bit. Did you drive it before adding the shims? Hold off on cutting those bolts til you figure out what’s going on with the decal noise.
You shouldn’t have any new noises after your lift. One thing to check is your exhaust clearances. Especially by the leaf spring.
Scroll up to post 29659 for conventional 2 joint driveshaft angle. You may end up needing a combination of cross member drop and shims but those shims are huge.
Last edited by Sirsyc0; 12-16-2020 at 01:26 PM.
Reason: More info
Thanks! I'll research and look into those things. I didn't add any shims or anything, just bolted on the RC suspension parts as they came. I'll definitely check the exhaust clearance. Sorry for my massive ignorance on all of these things. Most info I find is obviously for 4x4 lifts, so knowing what crosses over is still something I'm learning.
On an XJ there really is no difference between RWD and 4WD since on the front a straight tube replaces the drive axle on the RWD model keeping everything the same. More simple with front on RWD because you don't have the front drive shaft to worry about. Also since it is a DD and not hard core off roader you don't have to worry about clearances at extreme flex I would imagine. You will still have to worry about rear drive shaft length and angle but as above you could probably get by with a drop of the cross member since you probably are not worried about loosing an inch or so of ground clearance.
On an XJ there really is no difference between RWD and 4WD since on the front a straight tube replaces the drive axle on the RWD model keeping everything the same. More simple with front on RWD because you don't have the front drive shaft to worry about. Also since it is a DD and not hard core off roader you don't have to worry about clearances at extreme flex I would imagine. You will still have to worry about rear drive shaft length and angle but as above you could probably get by with a drop of the cross member since you probably are not worried about loosing an inch or so of ground clearance.
I didn't think I would have to worry about that on just a 3" :/ I am going to take the shims off and see what happens. My (now sold) 96 XJ was the first vehicle I've ever attempted to work on, and now on my 97 (current DD), I do pretty much all of my own work. It's a figure it out as I go process, but I love doing it myself. I obviously read a lot more than I post here. Yes, she's an on road vehicle, and I own a business where I only drive around my neighborhood, like 5 miles a day max, so no hard wear at all, and my issues are usually pretty easy to find answers for since I ride on the real boring side of the road here haha
You may not have to worry about it after you remove the shims, but I had terrible vibrations at 3”s. A 1” transfer case drop solved it. Just to let you know dropping the cross member isn’t very kind to your engine mounts or exhaust. Easy enough to make with some square tubing. The cross member has one bolt and one stud on each side so the stud needs to be removed and replaced with a bolt. Also there is a exhaust hanger on the cross member to watch for when lowering. It will pull on the exhaust when lowered. Just a heads up because you said you’re not familiar with it. Might save you some headaches.
Before removing the shims I'd be checking is the pinion angle (not the driveshaft angle). The pinion angle at the rear yoke should be as close to the same as the angle at the slip joint at the back of the transmission (transfer case on a 4x4). Should be like the bottom diagram.
Good chance of it. Might be able to reverse the shims to get the angles the same or near enough. I've read that +/- 1.5 degrees is close enough. Definitely need to know the difference between the two angles first though.
I had to reverse (thick end forward) 4 degree shims to eliminate a ~35 mph vibration on my 2" lifted '96. It put the pinion angle a bit lower than it needed to be so I dropped the leaf springs down to the 3/4" lift position and so far so good.
Good chance of it. Might be able to reverse the shims to get the angles the same or near enough. I've read that +/- 1.5 degrees is close enough. Definitely need to know the difference between the two angles first though.
I had to reverse (thick end forward) 4 degree shims to eliminate a ~35 mph vibration on my 2" lifted '96. It put the pinion angle a bit lower than it needed to be so I dropped the leaf springs down to the 3/4" lift position and so far so good.
So are your shackles what made your pinion angle too high?
I found the pinion angle problem after installing Crown HD leaf springs which gave me an annoying vibration at the speeds which I mostly drive at (~35 to ~40 mph). Any other mph was fine. The shackles are IRO 0 to 3/4" lift and were in the 0 position. Ended up with a +4.25 degree difference. The IRO 4 degree steel shims reversed put the pinion a bit low (~ -1.2 degrees) so I moved down to the 3/4" position on the shackles which should have raised the pinion angle around that amount. I didn't measure the angles but the vibration is gone. I want to mention that I've read that even some of the XJ's that came from the factory with Up Country package were prone to driveline vibrations. Why I don't know.
It looks like coil lift and a 2” spacer. The sway bar end links have been changed. No those aren’t factory shackles
Going by the picture of your XJ it looks like more than just a 2” spacer up front.
Last edited by Sirsyc0; 12-20-2020 at 10:43 AM.
Reason: More info
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
Offset Ball Joint or Stock
