Max Conrad

Some sort of 16" size tire on a 16x7 rim with a backspace less than 4.25" might be doable.[/QUOTE]


Thanks, I’m headed to the local off road/tire shop later this week. I noticed that you’re able to keep a spare in the stock spot. This is another motivation to use a bit smaller tire. I have a rear tire carrier, but that’s not very practical for everyday use of the back hatch. It looks like I may be headed for new wheel AND tire set and have a dd wheel set and a trail set.

EZEARL

Before you commit to 16" rims and tires measure the backspace on your 15" rims to just confirm the backspacing listed with the specs. That's a lot of backspace listed to be used with spacers. Your pic doesn't look to me it's that much. How thick are the spacers?

Max Conrad

Thanks! And thanks for the input.

But honestly I still get confused on the backspacing and offset. It looks like your 16x7 have 4” backspacing with 0 offset. I thought factory wheels had 5.25” backspacing? Or you just meant you didn’t add spacers on those wheels?

In any case, if I’m understanding correctly, my wheels at 8” wide with 3.65 backspace and negative offset of 30mm (around 1.2”) and 10.5” wide tires should stick out roughly 2” further than your set up.

I think this is what you were saying EZEARL? That my stance is mostly just in the wheels.

EZEARL

Your stance is all in the wheels and it's not only for looks. When I was running 235/75R15's on OEM rims (5.25" b/s) the tires would hit my lower control arms at full turn under certain circumstances. That's why I went with more backspace on the rims I bought (4.25"). I just don't think your rims are compatible with what your trying to accomplish. The rims you have now would be similar to what most here run their 33/12.50R15 tires on (15x8 3.75" b/s) so selling them shouldn't be a problem. I see very red's rims are offered in a 16x8 with 5" b/s but no narrow size of tire that MAY work is recommended to be used on an 8" rim. Right off it looks like very red's set up would be your best bet although there are 16" tires that are a bit taller and narrower. Here's chart that may help:


Tire size chart:
https://tiresize.com/chart/

Just a thought but have you considered aftermarket flares that would cover your tires?

Very Red XJ

Max,
Black Rock serries 997 come in either 4.0" or 4.25" back spacing for 7" rims - I ordered these wheels a couple of years ago when I realized that 8" rims do not hold the 235's (I was running at the time) correctly. In addition, the Chinese made aluminum Mohab reproduction wheels failed on rocky trails in-spite of lofty ASTM test numbers stamped in the casting. I had several flats with these wheels as well. Once I went to 7" American made steel rims , I had no more flats wheeling on the same or similar trails with the same tires. Eric Zappe explains why 7" rims are better for XJ's in his book : "Jeep Cherokee XJ Performance Upgrades: 1984-2001" My current set up works very well both on trail and street

Max Conrad

Tire size chart:
https://tiresize.com/chart/

Just a thought but have you considered aftermarket flares that would cover your tires?[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the charts, that’s helpful. Both of y’all, thank you for the info. And yes, I’m considering all options!

Very Red XJ

Wheeling over rough or wash-boarded trails will shake things loose. Double nutting will heil you keep your stuff on your jeep and debris off the trail!

RealDealBJJ

Ok, so I'm about to pull the trigger on tires & lift for my 2000 xj sport 4x4. I just want to be sure there is nothing that I'm missing to achieve my goal.

It's my daily driver, I do some camping & overlanding but maybe only a couple times a year. I want to give it a more aggressive look and improve some of it's ability for off-roading.

My goal is to not really touch the drive shaft if possible.
Here is what I'm considering:

3.5" Rubicon express front coil springs. $179.99
Rough Country Shackle relocation kit $129.95
Rough Country adjustable shackles $59.95
Rough Country Monotube front shocks. $259.95
Rough Country N3 rear shocks $99.95
Rubicon Express Adjustable lower control arm $235.49
Rubicon Express Sway bar disconnect $143.99
BFG All Terrain T/A K02 31x10.5R15LT $182.99/ea X 5
Method MR301 The Standard wheels $209.65/ea X 5

Total $ 3072.47 + tax

Is there anything that I'm not considering that I should be? Is this the most cost effective way to go about this? I priced everything out individually for the most part, is there a kit that would basically get me just about everything I need at a better price? Do I need bump stops? Spacers? Do i need new leaf springs? or add a leaf?

Also, will I have any issues with the tires rubbing on anything?

Thanks for any advice

Very Red XJ

You will need an adjustable track bar. You should replace the bump stops and add longer brake lines. You will need a new drive shaft or drop your transfer case - I had to drop mine 1". Adding a leaf to springs that are over 20 years old is will net sagging springs within a year. This is a good time to rebuild the front end - I recommend heavy duty Moog bushings, ball-joints and tie rod ends. If you are buying wheels - why not upgrade to 16" ? A 16"x7" wheel with 4" of back-spacing will serve you well. I run 245/75/r16's with a 3" lift (3-1/4" actual lift) and it doesn't rub off road. The narrower tires will fit in the narrow XJ wheel-wells better and they are lighter.

jbudz511

Similar to red xj, i too would recommend new leafs. All that new equipment would certainly accelerate any wear on the old leafs. I imagine you're looking to net 3.5 in in the rear with that set up but I'd be mindful. Also agree with the track bar at that height. I'm about 2 inches up and i don't have an adjustable and I'm ever so slightly off.

As far as the rims from what I see those have 4.5 in backspacing, those could be ok since you're changing the control arms from what i understand. You're adding roughly a 1.2in wider tire so .6in in each direction and you're pushing them out .75in with the rims. I have stock LCAs but with 30x9.5x15 grabber AT/X on quadratec rubicon xtreme (4in BS) so no issues rubbing (at least on the LCA).

Depending on how much lift you actually net 3 in seems to be the point where most ppl start to have driveline vibes though I've read plenty of people that say they needed no t-case drop/SYE at 3 inches. Everyone is different though your chances deff increase a lot at the 3in+ mark.

I have what i affectionately call the "upcountry+" lol with HD crown leaf springs, V8 ZJ coils +a spacer, OME shocks and i net about 2 in total. Stock LCAs as mentioned but i do have jks discos cause it was just tall enough that i kept snapping stock end links so i said might as well go with discos. I did front and back springs, 4 shocks, bushings and u bolts, rims and tires for i think about $1800 IIRC (also had a $100 rebate for the tires lol). Then after I added the jks discos and OME steering stabilizer and just redid the front end with zj steering conversion and a new track bar for like $200 total. No need for tcase drop or anything. I'm at slightly less height for probably about $600 less after its all said and done and I think it's plenty capable. I also picked up a set of flat flares for cheap from a reddit user so that will grant a little more wheel well space/allow me to go up to 31s. right now i rub in the front with stock bump stops while disco'd.

Very Red XJ

Indeed, an XJ with a 2" lift (2-1/4" actual on my jeep) is capable on moderate 4x4 trails! I wheeled my XJ on trails with 2" Old Man Emu springs and shocks for 2 years before up-grading to a 3" OME lift. OME guaranties their fine Australian Steel and shocks for 3 years; unlike other spring manufactures who only warranty their off-road products for 90 days. Yes, this quality costs more money, but it's worth it in the long run. I wheeled on 235/75/r16's (29.7") mounted to 16x7 steel rims. They did NOT rub and fender flares were not required. The 7" rims hold the tire better as explained in Eric Zappe's book : "Jeep Cherokee XJ Performance Upgrades: 1984-2001" Unfortunately, I had to drop my transfer case to quell the vibrations from my slip-yoke for the 2" lift. OME provides a lowering case kit with its XJ lift and fortunately, no additional work was required for the additional inch I recently added.

A 2" lift is great for Overlanding

RealDealBJJ

Thanks very red xj & jbudz for the feedback. I think you guys just convinced me to go 2” lift instead.

do you think I still need most of the items on the list& just make sure I get the appropriate size for the 2” lift instead? Or would some of the things not be needed for just 2”

also,would the 31” tires still be doable Or would I get some rubbing?


sorry for the newb questions

Max Conrad

You were correct. No spacers. It’s all in the backspace on the rims. I’m considering Rusty’s or Bushwhacker flares down the road, but for now I’m going to stick with these wheels and focus on getting new rubber. I’m looking at Falken Wildpeak at3w tires, I saw on an old post you had some—you likey?

Very Red XJ

You can bolt on a 2" lift and go Wheeling -However,
Longer brake lines in the rear are required - and the front replacement is recommended
Sway bar discos will add articulation and save replacing sway bar bushings often
An adjustable track bar will place the front wheels directly in-line with the rear wheels
Stock lower control arms will work till the worn bushings fail. Rubican Express arms provide improved geometry and great long waring bushings
Where are you wheeling this jeep? BFG KO2's are great all-around tires, But if you spend a lot of time in the mud get KO3's or Cooper SST's
30 x 9.5 x 15c BFG's (29.5") are the ideal tire for a 2" lift. Why do you need 31's? If you MUST have them, then go with a 3" lift or are you good at trimming fenders?

a 2" lift with all of the things listed above

EZEARL

"I’m looking at Falken Wildpeak at3w tires, I saw on an old post you had some—you likey? "
I like them a lot. Only thing is they took quite a bit of weight to balance. For being a 235-15 I didn't expect that. BUT once balanced they haven't needed done again. They wear well and don't seem to be noisy as they do so. They are at 6/32 tread depth from 16/32 new but still have good siping on all lugs. Having said that more than likely I'll go with 30x9.50R15 General Grabber A/T X's. Local shop I deal with says less weight to balance and the 235's on our Blazer are doing very good. I had very good luck with the Grabber A/T2's (balanced well) so I'm a bit biased towards General tires. Still I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Falkens.