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Old 06-30-2011, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 1plunk
Not entirely sure but I think you need at least 3" of lift to fit 31's with no trimming

Tcase should be fine but a drop isn't complicated if u need it, it depends on the XJ some people get lucky and can go 5" without a Tcase drop, some go 2" and have mad death wobble.
Thanks for the reply back. I'll have to consult with Advanced Suspension Design in Twin Falls

Rob
Old 06-30-2011, 12:46 AM
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Almost about to push the button on ordering my lift after spending a couple of weeks reading threads on this forum. So looking at the short-arm 4" IRO kit (with the idea I've got scope to upgrade to the long-arm), but I see they don't come with LCAs - worth the $130 for the upgrade? Am ordering internationally so want to get it right
Old 06-30-2011, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by downthepub
Almost about to push the button on ordering my lift after spending a couple of weeks reading threads on this forum. So looking at the short-arm 4" IRO kit (with the idea I've got scope to upgrade to the long-arm), but I see they don't come with LCAs - worth the $130 for the upgrade? Am ordering internationally so want to get it right
yes worth it. once you go long arm you can just sell the short arms.
are you opting for the full leafs packs as well?
Old 06-30-2011, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by downthepub
Almost about to push the button on ordering my lift after spending a couple of weeks reading threads on this forum. So looking at the short-arm 4" IRO kit (with the idea I've got scope to upgrade to the long-arm), but I see they don't come with LCAs - worth the $130 for the upgrade? Am ordering internationally so want to get it right
Rough Country's 4.5" x-series kit comes with everything you need. Including lcas.
Old 06-30-2011, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by stryker1228
Rough Country's 4.5" x-series kit comes with everything you need. Including lcas.
Not everyone wants to run rough country and the long arm conversion with rough country does tend to have poor reviews.
Old 06-30-2011, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Kuro89
yes worth it. once you go long arm you can just sell the short arms.
are you opting for the full leafs packs as well?
Yep, getting the full leaf packs as well - my stock springs are sagging and pretty early on, I decided it was a false economy to do anything else but replace them.

I did look at the Rough Country kits, but IRO seem to be highly thought of. Also looked at the BDS 4.5" short arm kit as well.

To give a little background, I've got a UK spec (ie RHD) '98 4.0 litre and plan to compete in some RTV events (http://www.hbro.co.uk/RTVexplained.htm) against Defenders and the like. So I've been working my way through a list of modifications that will make it trail ready without going overboard. So at the same time, I'm ordering rock sliders and other underside armour. My XJ is also be my daily driver, but if anything I'd prefer flex out of my lift than highway ride comfort.
Old 07-01-2011, 05:59 AM
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Made a thread on jeepforum, but thought I would ask here too.

I have an 01 XJ with a RE 3.5" SF lift with a t-case drop. It also has 1" spacers in the front to make sure the front end didnt sag too much from the bumper/winch. I have 33's on it now with cut fenders, and everything was fine until I added flares. I was tired of slinging mud in the windows when I had the windows down off road, but now the rear is rubbing. I trimmed the flares, but it still rubs a little. If I added a 1" shackle to the rear with no SYE, would it be ok? Here is a flat and level picture of how it sits now.

Old 07-01-2011, 10:03 AM
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You would only be at like 4.5 in the back so it wouldn't really be that high, the only way to really know is to try, I really would doubt you would heed one but don't hold me to that
Old 07-01-2011, 10:54 AM
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Right now my suspension is stock. My jeeps a 2WD, so no offroading, but I want to beef it up a little bit. In my mind, 2 to 2.5 inches sounds right, with 30" tires.

Would there be anything wrong with just shackles in the back and 2.25" spacers in the front? I've already measured from the center of the hub cap to the bottom of the fender flare. Front measures 18", rear measures 17". Altogether this would cost me about $90 for the lift, but if any of you have a better idea to guarantee me AT LEAST 2" of lift, preferably 2.5", feel free to point me to a lift kit.

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Old 07-01-2011, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chadh92
Right now my suspension is stock. My jeeps a 2WD, so no offroading, but I want to beef it up a little bit. In my mind, 2 to 2.5 inches sounds right, with 30" tires.

Would there be anything wrong with just shackles in the back and 2.25" spacers in the front? I've already measured from the center of the hub cap to the bottom of the fender flare. Front measures 18", rear measures 17". Altogether this would cost me about $90 for the lift, but if any of you have a better idea to guarantee me AT LEAST 2" of lift, preferably 2.5", feel free to point me to a lift kit.
Rustys offroad has a great 2'' budget lift. I would recommend new shocks and a steering stabilizer as well.
Old 07-01-2011, 09:05 PM
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I have gotten almost all of the stuff done on my 4.5 inch lift, I have to still change the pitman arm and add the tc drop. How should I take the studs out for the drop? And do any of u know how I can get this pitman arm off because I have broken to pullers trying to remove it. And it has been drenched in pb several times.
Old 07-01-2011, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wiggles
I have gotten almost all of the stuff done on my 4.5 inch lift, I have to still change the pitman arm and add the tc drop. How should I take the studs out for the drop? And do any of u know how I can get this pitman arm off because I have broken to pullers trying to remove it. And it has been drenched in pb several times.
There's two ways to get those studs out. The first is the jam-nut method. Take two nuts and tighten them together on the stud and turn the stud out by the top nut. If that doesn't work then you have have to weld a nut the to stud to turn it out.
Old 07-01-2011, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by wiggles
I have gotten almost all of the stuff done on my 4.5 inch lift, I have to still change the pitman arm and add the tc drop. How should I take the studs out for the drop? And do any of u know how I can get this pitman arm off because I have broken to pullers trying to remove it. And it has been drenched in pb several times.
There's two ways to get those studs out. The first is the jam-nut method. Take two nuts and tighten them together on the stud and turn the stud out by the top nut. If that doesn't work then you have have to weld a nut the to stud to turn it out.
Old 07-01-2011, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DKDunn04
Made a thread on jeepforum, but thought I would ask here too.

I have an 01 XJ with a RE 3.5" SF lift with a t-case drop. It also has 1" spacers in the front to make sure the front end didnt sag too much from the bumper/winch. I have 33's on it now with cut fenders, and everything was fine until I added flares. I was tired of slinging mud in the windows when I had the windows down off road, but now the rear is rubbing. I trimmed the flares, but it still rubs a little. If I added a 1" shackle to the rear with no SYE, would it be ok? Here is a flat and level picture of how it sits now.
you won't need an sye at 4.5", my friend has been sitting at 5.5"-6" (3.5" leafs + 2" or so of lift shackle.) for a while with just a 3/4" t-case drop no vibes no problems off road.
Old 07-01-2011, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by stryker1228

There's two ways to get those studs out. The first is the jam-nut method. Take two nuts and tighten them together on the stud and turn the stud out by the top nut. If that doesn't work then you have have to weld a nut the to stud to turn it out.
I tried the jam nut method, and I didn't want to have to do any welding. I just offered the rusty's crosmember with the 1inch drop incorporated in it so I don't have to take them out. I have to deal with a broken bolt though one of the ones that actually goes in. I still have to figure out the pitman arm though.


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