cdawall

thanks any idea if the factory tcase skid will still bolt to it?

wiggles

Wish I had one to try it out but u could always just drill some holes

cdawall

was more curious because of the overall design vs stock

wiggles

It's not really different in size just thinner but with thicker metal if that makes sense

cdawall

gotcha hmmm... that and shackles sounds like my next buy

wiggles

Nice

Vincenza V

Wiggles-does that rusty's cross member do anything BETTER than a t-case spacer drop? Meaning, are the angles of the dangles better going that route?

I also have a SYE question. Are there any kits where you DON'T have to stop mid project to go to a machine shop to have the machine the and tap the main shaft? Assuming the machine shop needs a day or two to get to it, that would leave my DD out of much needed commission. Also, I assume you have to buy a custom drive shaft (Tom's), what do that generally cost?

Cdawall-say I may not need it, his buddy's o.k. with a 4.5" lift. Said he's at 3.5" lift and o.k, but depend on the wear of the Jeep (I'm curious what were would govern this comment? Can you be a little more specific-springs, driveshaft?

Stryker1228-Said he didn't need it for a 3" lift

Based off these comment I THINK I'd be o.k. with a 3" lift, but that doesn't give me any piece of mind. It kind of puts me back to the reason I asked this. I want to KNOW if at 3", a SYE is not need or KNOW why is it. Any other input? Thanks for all the responses so far.

cdawall

purely wear on that tailshaft. its really luck of the draw on it like i said my buddy sits 4.5-5" i have no way to measure since he has no flares. i will be doing the rusty crossmember vs a drop kit.




thats why the rusty crossmember is better it bolts in the stock location without dropping an inch.

wiggles

^ I would trust it to dropping my xj on a rock with it. Would probably jack up the "frame" rail before you would dent it. For less than 150 bucks shipped you get a nice powder coated chuck of metal and u could use it with a sye if you wanted to because it can't hurt at all. If you look up jbconversions they have a nice sye for 200 I think that comes with a new shaft for the inside of the tc, and u can use a auto xj front shaft or can go the expensive route with a tom woods. Hope this helped!

wiggles

I have a really bad pic of the crosmember if anyone wants to see, its of it mounted because I didn't think to take one before

Celticclove

Cooper mud claws vs. Wrangler dura track? Help me chose please

stowe

Here is probably a dumb question (those are the ones I'm best at), but I'm puting a 3" rustys lift on my 2000 xj and the trac-bar is being a pita to get lined back up. I managed to get the bolt in through the front, but can't seem to get everything lined up correcly so it will come out the back. I'm sure I'll get it figured out when I get back at it tomorrow, but if there is some sort of trick or something that will save me a lot of time and cussing I'd like to know ahead of time. Thanks in advance for any advice that you guys might have.

wiggles

Just twist everything around and don't be afraid to start hitting stuff with a hammer just not hard enough to f up the threads lol

stowe

Yeah, tomorrow I am going to upgrade my efforts with a larger hammer and see how it goes. It's just a pain because you can't really see the back side of the hole to tell if you are in line or not. The best you can do is semi feel the tip of the bolt with your finger.

wiggles

Ya, I was working on my lower tb bolt earlier and was having the same problem... so I hit it with a hammer