cdawall

i bolded exactly why swampers will suck with your jeep. they wear fast and dont handle awesome.

96xjclassic

good call

'89_Cherokee

Super swampers are a soft tire, they wear fast on asphalt, they're loud, and I dont like the way they ride. Strictly offroad mud tires

Whitegohst

What tire would you recomend that preform good offroad and have a long life onroad

Whitegohst

swampers are out of the question i guess. DOes and one know what tire would preform good ofroad and still have decent life onroad

cdawall

cooper discoverer ST
cooper discoverer STT
goodyear MTR
goodyear duratrac
BFG MT T/A KM2
Hankook dynapro MT
Mastercraft Courser MT
Toyo open country MT

'89_Cherokee

Nitto trail grapplers, bfg km2's, toyo mt's, depening on your road/offroad ratio maybe an all terrain would be good for you.

96xjclassic

I have firestone denstination m/t's they rule. You might want to checkout the a/t's or the m/t"s.well priced as well!

1plunk

I already talked to Grimus

Sent from my iPod touch using my chocolate covered fingers

AWP

My 235's on 8' Black D's with flat leaves on my 1999 XJ will hit the fender flares when loaded down (camping gear or three in the backseat and groceries). Will a 2" lift be enough by itself to stop this or will I need to change Bump Stops? Center of wheel to flare is 17".

stryker1228

Sounds like you need new leafs.

96xjclassic

Sure does!

DocOrng XJ

Stock lift is "supposed" to be 17", front and back, from center of wheel to bottom of fender, at least that's my understanding, and measurements that I've taken on 4 xjs; 86, 87, 87, 96 models.

2" will be fine with 235s
but if your leafs are flat or have negative arch, AAL or shackles won't help at this point, since you say your hitting when loaded down & going over bumps, first way to fix that is new packs.

I'm using a 2" bb and was running 235/75 on 15x7, for about a year, Never any problems. But now I'm at 2" and running 31s, but am also in process of upgrading to 3.5" - 4.5" lift.

restoring

Okay, here's a request/question for those of you who know about this stuff...

Suppose I am going to get the Rough Country 4.5 inch Long Arm kit found here ----> http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4xla.html

and suppose it is going to be installed on a stock 2001 Cherokee Sport 4x4 that has 140,000 miles on it, and to my knowledge has not had any suspension/drive train parts replaced since new (other than brakes and a rotor). According to the build sheet I also have:

4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission

Lock-Up Torque Converter

Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System

Dana 30/181MM Front Axle

3.55 Rear Axle Ratio

Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle

Normal Duty Suspension

Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars

Transfer case is a 231 J

I don't plan on starting out with any tire bigger than a 31, and that will have to wait until I save up some more $ for the wheels and the rubber. This is going to remain my Daily Driver, and I do drive long distances at highways speeds [80 mph +/-] regularly. It will also be my camping, back country hunting, trail riding driver - just not on the higher risk/higher difficulty level trails.

Please tell me your opinion on:

What else will I need to buy that isn't included in the kit? CV shaft? SYE? Better shocks? Different tie rods? Johnnie joints?

What on the Jeep will need to be checked that if in good shape wouldn't need removal or replacing but might need replacing now that it has 140k miles on it? Bushings? Rods? Joints?

I have a carport and can't do a lift here so even if I had the equipment (and I don't) I would have to find another place to do it. Thus I have to set aside a little $ to rent the space and buy the food and beer for a lift party locally with my friends from midsouthjeeps.com

Any genuine help is appreciated

I'm trying to get a decent idea of the true cost so I can determine whether or not I can cover the lift in question up front or need to wait longer/settle on a different lift kit.

AWP

To continue with my question in the post a few up. With the factory wheels the tire could come up in the fenderwell. With the Black D's extending out 2" wider the tires can hit the Flares. I suspect that with new packs or 2" lift or equivalent of both, enough bump with enough load that the tires could still hit the flares. Am I correct and may need different bump stops with this wheel offset. Has anyone had this situation and yes or no bump stops?