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#3541
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Model: Cherokee
I am looking into a LA lift kit from Iron Rock Offroad and wanted to get your opinions on a 5.5" lift kit vs a 6.5" lift kit? I want to run 35x12.50" tires. I will also be running a Dana 44 in the rear and keeping the Dana 30 up front. I'll also be upgrading the steering system, axles, lockers, driveshafts, and transfer case. As I understand 35" tires and a lift over 4-4.5" in height starts to cause problems. We don't like problems. lol
So there it is in a nutshell... Is there really that much of a benefit of running a 6.5" lift over a 5.5" lift? Is going with a 5.5" lift better simply for the lower COG? I will be using it mainly as a trail rig but will drive it on the street fairly often and drive it to the trails. Washington, Arizona, Colorado, etc. I want it to be capable anywhere I want to take it.
So there it is in a nutshell... Is there really that much of a benefit of running a 6.5" lift over a 5.5" lift? Is going with a 5.5" lift better simply for the lower COG? I will be using it mainly as a trail rig but will drive it on the street fairly often and drive it to the trails. Washington, Arizona, Colorado, etc. I want it to be capable anywhere I want to take it.
#3543
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: shawnee,ks
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Nperryman
Bastard pack vs add a leaf to get 3 inches. What are the pros and cons for each? Which one is better ride and longer lasting?
#3544
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Couple of questions gentlemen, before I spend anymore money.
1st questions is... Soo far my xj sits 3 inches higher than stock and of course my front axle is pushed over to the driver's side. Before I re-drill the t-bracket I thought about purchasing 4.5" front springs and just adding additional leafs to my rear packs that way I can just drill the t-bracket once and not lose rigidity. Onto the question, besides the front springs, rear bastard pack, what else would I need to make this all work correctly? I know I need rear axle shims and extended brake lines for all four corners.Also, would I need aftermarket front lower/upper control arms? If so, what size, adjustable or not, and anyone got any recommendations?
2nd question is, what size tires would I be able to clear with a 4.5' lift but without fender trimming?
3rd question is, I've got a D30 axle up front, N231 T-CASE, D35 rear end with upcountry lsd, and a 5 speed trans. I'd like to swap the 3.07 final drive for 4.10 final drive but one of the techs at work said I would tear up my transfer if I went with the 4.10's. He said that since gearing in the rear diff and front diff are not the same I'd trash the transfer case. Is this true? Would I need 2 sets of gears?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!
1st questions is... Soo far my xj sits 3 inches higher than stock and of course my front axle is pushed over to the driver's side. Before I re-drill the t-bracket I thought about purchasing 4.5" front springs and just adding additional leafs to my rear packs that way I can just drill the t-bracket once and not lose rigidity. Onto the question, besides the front springs, rear bastard pack, what else would I need to make this all work correctly? I know I need rear axle shims and extended brake lines for all four corners.Also, would I need aftermarket front lower/upper control arms? If so, what size, adjustable or not, and anyone got any recommendations?
2nd question is, what size tires would I be able to clear with a 4.5' lift but without fender trimming?
3rd question is, I've got a D30 axle up front, N231 T-CASE, D35 rear end with upcountry lsd, and a 5 speed trans. I'd like to swap the 3.07 final drive for 4.10 final drive but one of the techs at work said I would tear up my transfer if I went with the 4.10's. He said that since gearing in the rear diff and front diff are not the same I'd trash the transfer case. Is this true? Would I need 2 sets of gears?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by DailyDriven; 09-03-2011 at 10:09 AM.
#3545
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Warren, MI
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by legion1capone
I am looking into a LA lift kit from Iron Rock Offroad and wanted to get your opinions on a 5.5" lift kit vs a 6.5" lift kit? I want to run 35x12.50" tires. I will also be running a Dana 44 in the rear and keeping the Dana 30 up front. I'll also be upgrading the steering system, axles, lockers, driveshafts, and transfer case. As I understand 35" tires and a lift over 4-4.5" in height starts to cause problems. We don't like problems. lol
So there it is in a nutshell... Is there really that much of a benefit of running a 6.5" lift over a 5.5" lift? Is going with a 5.5" lift better simply for the lower COG? I will be using it mainly as a trail rig but will drive it on the street fairly often and drive it to the trails. Washington, Arizona, Colorado, etc. I want it to be capable anywhere I want to take it.
So there it is in a nutshell... Is there really that much of a benefit of running a 6.5" lift over a 5.5" lift? Is going with a 5.5" lift better simply for the lower COG? I will be using it mainly as a trail rig but will drive it on the street fairly often and drive it to the trails. Washington, Arizona, Colorado, etc. I want it to be capable anywhere I want to take it.
One note on 8.5": the shocks that will come with the 6.5" kit will be not be long enough after adding 2" spacers. I had to run two different part# in the rear because of the way the axle tilts the perches... Which is no problem.
Locking that d30 with 35s is where your problems might be... So I hear.
#3546
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: New Vienna, OH
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by DailyDriven
Couple of questions gentlemen, before I spend anymore money.
1st questions is... Soo far my xj sits 3 inches higher than stock and of course my front axle is pushed over to the driver's side. Before I re-drill the t-bracket I thought about purchasing 4.5" front springs and just adding additional leafs to my rear packs that way I can just drill the t-bracket once and not lose rigidity. Onto the question, besides the front springs, rear bastard pack, what else would I need to make this all work correctly? I know I need rear axle shims and extended brake lines for all four corners.Also, would I need aftermarket front lower/upper control arms? If so, what size, adjustable or not, and anyone got any recommendations?
2nd question is, what size tires would I be able to clear with a 4.5' lift but without fender trimming?
3rd question is, I've got a D30 axle up front, N231 T-CASE, D35 rear end with upcountry lsd, and a 5 speed trans. I'd like to swap the 3.07 final drive for 4.10 final drive but one of the techs at work said I would tear up my transfer if I went with the 4.10's. He said that since gearing in the rear diff and front diff are not the same I'd trash the transfer case. Is this true? Would I need 2 sets of gears?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!
1st questions is... Soo far my xj sits 3 inches higher than stock and of course my front axle is pushed over to the driver's side. Before I re-drill the t-bracket I thought about purchasing 4.5" front springs and just adding additional leafs to my rear packs that way I can just drill the t-bracket once and not lose rigidity. Onto the question, besides the front springs, rear bastard pack, what else would I need to make this all work correctly? I know I need rear axle shims and extended brake lines for all four corners.Also, would I need aftermarket front lower/upper control arms? If so, what size, adjustable or not, and anyone got any recommendations?
2nd question is, what size tires would I be able to clear with a 4.5' lift but without fender trimming?
3rd question is, I've got a D30 axle up front, N231 T-CASE, D35 rear end with upcountry lsd, and a 5 speed trans. I'd like to swap the 3.07 final drive for 4.10 final drive but one of the techs at work said I would tear up my transfer if I went with the 4.10's. He said that since gearing in the rear diff and front diff are not the same I'd trash the transfer case. Is this true? Would I need 2 sets of gears?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!
#3547
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by jcarson34
You need to have same gears running in both front and rear axle. Which you can buy new gears and upgrade. Currently I run a 4.5" lift. I have new upper and lower control arms, both adjustable, new shocks, coils, adjustable track bar and you may need a slip yoke eliminator. I currently don't have one and I get very little vibration at all, mine drives just as smooth as my buddy's stock ride height. But I have heard of people with vibration issues. Also I run 31's no problem and could go 33" but no clue about any bigger
#3548
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Location: Randoph ohio!
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My front ends getting a little bit of axle wrap.. think its my LCA bushings any ideas about what I should do to fix? Im lost here and its scarry as hell to drivve
#3550
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Location: Apple Valley, MN
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by cherokeeindian256
i have a 93 cherokee sport 4.0 its got coils all the way around, what lift can i use
#3551
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Location: Powhatan, VA
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
#3552
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
#3555
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre