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12-21-2011, 04:53 PM
#5056
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
The Y-link (radius arm) binds as the suspension articulates. The 4 link does not as much if set up correctly (the stock system is a 4 link)
I'm a visual learner, and the easiest way for me to see this is to make a 'V' with your index and middle fingers with both hands. Pretend they're attached to an invisible axle and point them straight in front of you (like the y-link setup). Now rotate your wrist up on your left hand, and note how it would want to pull the axle back, while the right hand wants to keep the axle where it was.
A true 4-link will have the same binding, however due to the geometry won't have the "unloading" during hill climbs that is inherent with a radius arm design. It's not a big issue though, and rarely noticeable.
12-21-2011, 04:57 PM
#5057
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Warren, Pa
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by dukie564
They both work the same way. A radius arm (y-link) setup has two mounting points to the frame, while the 4 link has essentially 4 (but in the same general spot).
The Y-link (radius arm) binds as the suspension articulates. The 4 link does not as much if set up correctly (the stock system is a 4 link)
I'm a visual learner, and the easiest way for me to see this is to make a 'V' with your index and middle fingers with both hands. Pretend they're attached to an invisible axle and point them straight in front of you (like the y-link setup). Now rotate your wrist up on your left hand, and note how it would want to pull the axle back, while the right hand wants to keep the axle where it was.
A true 4-link will have the same binding, however due to the geometry won't have the "unloading" during hill climbs that is inherent with a radius arm design. It's not a big issue though, and rarely noticeable.
12-21-2011, 05:07 PM
#5058
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Sumter
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Model: Cherokee
They both work the same way. A radius arm (y-link) setup has two mounting points to the frame, while the 4 link has essentially 4 (but in the same general spot).
The Y-link (radius arm) binds as the suspension articulates. The 4 link does not as much if set up correctly (the stock system is a 4 link)
I'm a visual learner, and the easiest way for me to see this is to make a 'V' with your index and middle fingers with both hands. Pretend they're attached to an invisible axle and point them straight in front of you (like the y-link setup). Now rotate your wrist up on your left hand, and note how it would want to pull the axle back, while the right hand wants to keep the axle where it was.
A true 4-link will have the same binding, however due to the geometry won't have the "unloading" during hill climbs that is inherent with a radius arm design. It's not a big issue though, and rarely noticeable.
The Y-link (radius arm) binds as the suspension articulates. The 4 link does not as much if set up correctly (the stock system is a 4 link)
I'm a visual learner, and the easiest way for me to see this is to make a 'V' with your index and middle fingers with both hands. Pretend they're attached to an invisible axle and point them straight in front of you (like the y-link setup). Now rotate your wrist up on your left hand, and note how it would want to pull the axle back, while the right hand wants to keep the axle where it was.
A true 4-link will have the same binding, however due to the geometry won't have the "unloading" during hill climbs that is inherent with a radius arm design. It's not a big issue though, and rarely noticeable.
12-21-2011, 05:08 PM
#5059
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
12-21-2011, 05:14 PM
#5060
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
I recommend the parallel 4 link - cuz you can take one side off and make it a 3-link for crawling!
Then you'll have no binding and super flex!
Then you'll have no binding and super flex!
12-21-2011, 05:19 PM
#5061
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Model: Cherokee
do you have a good example of one? I dont remember seeing that in any of my searches, but then again i probably just didnt know what i was looking at
12-21-2011, 05:25 PM
#5062
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by marXJackal
do you have a good example of one? I dont remember seeing that in any of my searches, but then again i probably just didnt know what i was looking at
12-21-2011, 05:36 PM
#5064
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
The BDS system you asked about is a parallel 4-link (the upper and lower arms are parallel) - as opposed to a triangulated 4-link where you need all 4 links for it to work.
12-21-2011, 06:13 PM
#5065
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey dukie, for that 3" lift do you think he should get extended swaybar links for the front? (rear has been removed) Mine has a 2" BB and i didnt need them but im unsure if that extra inch will make a difference and im gonna put my old homemade discos on it.
12-22-2011, 09:30 AM
#5066
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Waterloo, IA
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: =
12-22-2011, 12:04 PM
#5067
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
yea 2" is about the limit for stock links. At 3" you really need adjustable or extended links.
12-22-2011, 12:06 PM
#5068
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
12-22-2011, 02:24 PM
#5069
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by dukie564
yea 2" is about the limit for stock links. At 3" you really need adjustable or extended links.
12-22-2011, 02:28 PM
#5070
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
you need either an adjustable TB, or weld the mounting hole on the axle side shut then drill a new one next to it.